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The Borg T-5 was used on 1994 and 1995 four-cylinder S10's; 1996 four-cylinder trucks came with the New Venture NV1500. New Venture's NV3500 was installed on all six-cylinder models. When To Remove The Transmission Virtually no work can be performed on an S10 manual transmission installed in the vehicle. Routine clutch servicing is the most frequent scenario for transmission removal. S10 manual transmissions are generally robust but with high mileage may require removal for rebuild or replacement. Gears become difficult to engage or pop out of gear unexpectedly. Lubricant leakage and noise are other indicators for overhaul. Engine-related problems in an S10 may necessitate pulling the transmission, too, most commonly replacement of a leaky rear engine oil seal. Why Do It Yourself? Few home mechanics are equipped to tear down an S10 transmission and diagnose and overhaul its internal components. However, removal of the transmission for repair at a shop or exchange is doable and can result in substantial savings on labor rates usually charged for transmission removal. How Is It Done? S10 transmission removal is manual labor and a two-person job. For most home mechanics, it will require the better part of a Saturday. Removal of heavy exhaust system and drive shaft are no-brainers but require physical dexterity. While most steps are straightforward nuts-and-bolts stuff, a few like clutch alignment require precision and strict standards of cleanliness: If you get it wrong, you won't know it until after you've reassembled the entire truck. What Do You Need? You're probably already equipped with most of what you'll need: Socket wrenches with extensions and a breaker bar, end wrenches and a good torque wrench. You need a standard floor jack to support the engine under the oil pan, too. What you probably don't have is a good transmission jack with tilt and swivel capability and a cradle and straps to hold the transmission in place.
http://www.uniquetile.co.uk/userfiles/detail-facade-construction-manual-pdf.xml
Don't try to improvise; do yourself a favor and rent a professional transmission jack. What Can Go Wrong? Transmissions are heavy. You'll be lying or standing beside yours when its mounting bolts are removed. Make sure the transmission jack properly supports the unit. Disconnected fuel lines may seep small amounts of flammable gasoline. Also, remember that your S10 is equipped with one of three different manual transmissions depending upon model year and engine. References Chevrolet S10 and GMC Sonoma Pick-Ups 1994 through 1998 Repair Manual: Hayens Inc: Robert Maddox and John J. Haynes: 1996 and 1999 Writer Bio Gus Stephens has written about aviation, automotive and home technology for 15 years. If it flies, drives or just sits on your desk and blinks, he's probably fixed it. More Articles How to Remove the Transmission From a. Chrysler 300C Transmission Issues Tools Needed for Pulling a Transmission New Transmission Vs. Rebuilding Nissan Altima Transmission Problems GM Transmission Troubleshooting What Is a SelectShift Transmission. Step-by-Step Transmission Removal for a. Whether manual or automatic, removal of the transmission follows largely the same procedure. It involves removal of several parts to obtain clearance, then simply unbolting the transmission from the engine and lowering it to the ground. Step 1 Disconnect the battery from the truck, then jack up the truck and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the parking brake cable, as well as the exhaust pipe, to allow for clearance to remove the transmission. Step 2 Remove the gear shift lever of manual transmission trucks by first removing the gear shift knob, then sliding the shifter boot off the shifter. The boot is held in place with retaining screws which can be accessed by pulling up the edge of the interior carpet near the shift boot. Trucks with automatic column-shift transmissions require removal of the shifter cable from the transmission housing underneath the truck.
http://flavourit.com/uploads/userfiles/file/detail-construction-manual.xml
This is accomplished by unbolting it from the transmission housing. Step 3 Support the transmission with the transmission jack, then unbolt the transmission from the engine of the truck. On the S10, there is a hanger which holds the catalytic converter in place on the transmission. Remove this hanger. Step 4 Unbolt the transmission supports from the underside of the truck, then slightly raise up on the transmission with the transmission jack. This will provide clearance to remove the transmission support cross member. Unbolt the cross member from the frame and set it aside. Unbolt the drive shaft from the transmission knuckle. Check to be certain that all wiring is disconnected from the transmission, then pull the transmission jack toward the back of the truck to disengage the transmission input shaft from the engine. Lower the transmission slowly to the ground and then pull it out from under the truck. Writer Bio Don Kress began writing professionally in 2006, specializing in automotive technology for various websites. An Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) certified technician since 2003, he has worked as a painter and currently owns his own automotive service business in Georgia. Kress attended the University of Akron, Ohio, earning an associate degree in business management in 2000. More Articles How to Remove a Starter From a Mazda. How to Replace Transmission Mounts in a. How to Remove a Transmission on a Camaro How to Check the Transmission Fluid. How to Remove a Buick Regal Transmission How to Take Out a Ford Ranger. How to Reset a Jetta Transmission How to Troubleshoot a Dodge Truck. The process is the same. This guide can help as well Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed. This truck has 117,000 miles on it, and it has a 4.3 motor. My husband has started taking the transmission out, but has hit a stumbeling block. He can't get it to actually come out. This truck has 117,000 miles on it, and it has a 4.3 motor.
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My husband has started taking the transmission out, but has hit a stumbeling block. He can't get it to actually come out. Well first do you have a haynes or Chiltons manuel. If he has that it should provide much of the information in there. What sort of stumbling block has he run into? He was able to get it out last night. Thank you for the reply though. And is engine supported level with trans if they are both straight it should come apart let me know if you got it good luck Trying to unscrew the transmission so we can lower it and change the flywheel. Removed all of the bolts except TWO in the front. We can't reach them. There was never room for anything other. To install: 4. Install the concentric slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft making sure the bleed screw and coupling are properly positioned and install 2 bolts. 5. Tighten the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). 6. Install the transmission. 7. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. I did loosen the bolt and I heardnthe click so I moved the gear. I was successful in doing my strainer but I can not get these gears back right, did I unajust them, or do I Just by turning the cable. Please help rectify this situation. Ensure shift tube and lever are free in steering column. To adjust linkage, remove screw and spring washer from swivel. Turn transmission lever clockwise to stop, then counterclockwise 2 detents. This is Neutral position. Place selector lever in Neutral. Locate proper position using mechanical stops, NOT shift indicator pointer. Hold swivel against shift lever. Install spring washer and screw. Tighten finger tight. Avoid applying force in either direction (along shift rod or lever) while tightening screw to specification Shift transmission into 3rd or 4th gear. Remove shift lever retainer screws and retainer. Remove 8 shift lever boot mounting screws and boot. Remove shift lever insulator. Remove shift lever.
http://dana1157.com/images/98-volvo-s90-owner-s-manual.pdf
Remove 4 exposed bolts on base of housing, not bolts under rubber boot located at top of housing. Remove insulator from transmission case. Raise and support vehicle. Drain transmission fluid. 2. Mark drive shaft for reassembly reference. Remove drive shaft(s). On 4WD, remove transfer case shield. Drain oil from transfer case. Remove vent hose and electrical connectors. Remove transfer case shift linkage. Using a jack, support transfer case. Remove transfer case and discard transmission adapter gasket. 3. On vehicles equipped with drive shaft parking brake, release parking brake. Remove nut and washer from center of brake drum. Remove drum yoke assembly, bolts, washers and drum yoke. Remove cotter pin, clevis pin, clevis, and nut from brake cable. Remove parking brake cable grommet, and cable from bracket. 4. On all vehicles, disconnect exhaust pipes from exhaust manifold, and catalytic converter from muffler assembly (if necessary). Disconnect electrical connectors from speed sensor and back-up light switch. Using Quick Connect Disconnect Tool (J-36221), remove clutch line from concentric slave cylinder quick connect coupling. Remove starter and clutch housing cover. Remove transmission vent hose. 5. Support transmission and engine. Remove crossmember. Remove clutch plate and clutch cover from flywheel. Remove transmission-to-engine bolts and studs. Pull transmission straight back on clutch hub splines. Remove clutch and clutch cover plates during transmission-to-engine separation. Remove transmission. Can you give me tips and instructions on how to do this and get the new one back in? The second is to remove the trans cross member and then remove the engine mounts to drop the engine down. Then there is also the way I use. Long extensions and crows foot wrenches. Shift transmission into 3rd or 4th gear. Remove shift lever knob and nut. Remove shift lever retainer screws and retainer (if equipped). Remove shift lever boot mounting screws and boot.
Remove shift lever and nut. Remove exposed bolts on base of housing. DO NOT remove bolts under rubber boot at top of housing. Remove shift lever housing. Drain transmission fluid. Remove parking brake cable for clearance. Mark drive shaft(s) for reassembly reference. Disconnect electrical connectors from speed sensor and back-up switch. On all models, disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold. Remove catalytic converter and hanger. If equipped, remove right and left side transfer case-to-transmission braces. On 4WD, place transfer case in 4H position. Remove skid plate. Drain fluid from transfer case. Disconnect vacuum lines and electrical connectors from transfer case (if equipped). Disconnect shift cable from transfer case. Support transfer case with jack. Remove transfer case-to-transmission mounting bolts. Slide transfer case rearward until free of transmission output shaft. Lower and remove transfer case. Remove and discard gasket. Remove clutch housing cover. Remove clutch plate and clutch cover from flywheel. Support transmission. Using a fuel pressure gauge, purge fuel system, and disconnect fuel lines. Remove fuel lines and retainers from rear crossmember. Remove rear crossmember. Move wiring harness away from transmission oil pan. Lower transmission enough to gain access to top of transmission. Remove wiring harness from front crossmember. Remove engine block ground. Remove transmission mounting bolts as necessary. Pull transmission straight back on clutch hub splines, and remove transmission. Im tryin to see if its worth it also its a 2.2l 2wd model. I Just Changed The Clutch Preassure Plate Through Out Bearing Slave Cylinder And The Thing That Looks Like A Master. I've Tried 2 Different Screw Drivers, Needle Nosed Vice Grips, A Razor Knife And. It is a V6 regular cab with manual transmission. I would also like to remove the bench seat and replace it with bucket seats. Once I remove the carpet.
I have asked my auto parts store and they Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use. Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies. The next thing to doThe material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply. The truck is a 2wd I think the biggest issue is going to be the exhaust as it is with any transmission removal, having a torch handy is a good idea. I would suggest draining the transmission, removing the drive shaft and the transmission support, this will make access to the bell housing bolts much easier. I don’t normally machine flywheels as I’m usually able to clean them up with my air tools, it’s only if there is a lot of chatter during clutch engagement or there are a lot of heat cracks in the flywheel itself that I do any resurfacing. Personally I get the best quality parts that I can afford, the best us usually OE but if you can find the brand that makes the OE even better because you don’t have to pay the markup. Good luck. The hydraulic line requires a special disconnect tool which is an L-shaped piece of plastic. The biggest pain after you get the exhaust and crossmember off is the top two bellhousing bolts. Once you are at that point, and you have the trans supported with a jack, let the jack down pretty far, then get a LONG extention with a wobble joint, and get up on those two top bolts. They are 18mm or 19mm if I remember right. Other than that, it’s pretty easy relative. They are cheap enough at harborfreight and will make the job MUCH safer and easier if your buy your self. As far as bleeding the slave cylinder, should I fill it up and then hook it up line and begin bleeding or just hook up the line and bleed it.
Sorry for all the hydraulic questions but all of the semi clutches ive replaced have had a linkage except one in which the slave cylinder unbolted, and most heavy duty applications don’t have hydraulic anything but maybe a pto so i have very little experience with hydraulics. As far as the exhaust and bellhousing bolts i think between a torch and some swivel sockets i can get it. T) And yes i will definitely be using a transmission jack. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I plan to replace timing chain and dampener on used replacement engine- and a new clutch is in order.these little trucks with cute little engine seem to be real popular right now-- must be gas prices. Thanks Usually the bell-housing comes out with the engine, but I don't think clearance requirements would be much different if the bell-housing stayed with the trans. If the engine has to be tilted much to get it out of there, then the trans would have to be tilted along with it to separate the two. In that case it's probably easier to pull the engine and trans together.These engines come out with plenty room to spare, so going in staright for clutch won't be a problem. However, I usually pull out both units in one pull cuz I like cleaning it all up and painting a bit here and there as I pull parts when on the crane, plus the clutch and flywheel and pilot will be more accessible to replace for you when you have em right in front of you at level that is comfortable, more than having your head shoved up in a tranny housing of body. This also allows me to look at and mend parts of the body that don't normally get looked at cuz of these units in place. A quick shot of gravle guard or other product to protect and prolong these little beaters is nice to do and only takes minutes. Plus it looks good and sells better if your going for profit.
He brings it to me, says oil pressure is erratic, I pull dip stick- it is 2 inches too high, and clear, not black. I feel what is on dipstick- extremely sticky.AHH Motor honey, or STP, inserted to quiet noisy engines. Then I find the funnel down by the battery, with STP residue still in it, and the rag next to it. Did not really want to push this issue- just to use it in bargaining- but what a deceitful way to get out from under this truck. I figure oil pressure is erratic because trying to suck that really thick stuff through the pick-up tube and screen. It will run at zero for 2 minutes then jump to 50, then 30 then zero, then 50 etc. Holds steady at any given pressure. Obviously trying to cover up a noise. I will replace timing chain and dampner on it while it's out. Truck is extended cab, all black, great looking body for the miles.worth keeping. The speedometer cable, U-joint, and cross member are a snap. Recently pulled my TH-400 transmission, but I was young then at only 68. With a manual transmission with the clutch thingy that has to be perfectly aligned, a lot easier to twist the transmission then the engine to get it back in. Never pulled just the engine on a transaxle, but certainly had my share of pulling the transaxle. And never could to that by myself, need a couple of guys on top with ropes to supported it so I could twist and turn it to align the clutch while I yelled at them. Really haven't though about the reverse by twisting and turning the engine, but that has all that stuff on it, like hoses, cables, AC stuff, and fuel lines. But that engine has to be well supported or those hoses will break, so far, got buy with a 2 X 8, but those were with four bangers. A large V-8 would give problems. Who ever thought they would put a large V-8 in a FWD vehicle. If you want 4WD, all that stuff has got to be removed first just so you can get at the engine.
Recall helping a buddy drop in a caddy V-8 in his 48 Ford couple, there to remove the transmission, had to remove the rear axle U bolts first to wheel back the torque tube. Wasn't too bad, in those days, could remove the nuts without breaking the U bolts. No longer true today. Matter of fact, can break a lot of bolts trying to remove an engine and even more taking it apart. Cold rolled steel unplated bolts in cast aluminum never was a good idea. The post by nickb2 reminded me of something: even if there is room to slide the engine away from the trans, getting them back together can be a real chore. A manual trans is light enough that you can wiggle it a bit to get everything aligned going back together. An engine isn't, so you want the engine stationary and the trans loose while you mate the two.In an SUV, do the entire drivetrain, then drop the body over it that kind of gets in the way. Maintenance use to be a key factor that started to die in the late 40's, now, its all about how fast can these things be thrown together. Truck runs great with new (used) engine. Here is the link to the sound of the engine before swap. S-10 Rod Knock Diagnosis says to check O2 sensor plugs and wires to assure they aren't cooked by exhaust, etc. Otherwise replace catalytic converter. Anybody ever deal with this code. What are my options? My recollection is it should be about 100F differential, but wait to see what nick can add.Maybe Jim has the spec for this vehicle. With an MT, did you check the clutch and pressure plate. Always seem to find extra things to do when pulling an engine. Really a great time to check the steering and suspension with that engine out of the way. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy.Learn why people trust wikiHow To create this article, 12 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time.
An ideal place is a roomy garage, but a concrete driveway, or at least a firm, smooth, level surface is needed to facilitate jacking the truck safely.Failing to do so could result in damage to the wiring harness.You will need to lift the front wheels at least six inches above the floor so the transmission can be removed from underneath the vehicle when it is dropped down.Then remove the exhaust flange from the exhaust manifold. Remove the electrical and transmission oil cooler lines.After the fluid has drained out, you need to reinstall the fluid pan back on the transmission.Once removed, tie it up out of the way. Also, remove the speedometer cable and the vacuum hose from the shift modulator valve.This should give you the room you need to remove the transfer case from the rear of the transmission, if the truck is four wheel drive. Remove the six bolts and remove it.The front of the transmission will now be supported by the splined input shaft and mounts, so do not allow the rear of the transmission to drop in the following steps, or this could damage the shaft, seals, or torque converter assembly.Remove the two bolts holding the transmission to the cross member, and the four bolts connecting the cross member to the truck's frame. Remove the cross member.You will need to slide it backward about 7 inches (17.8 cm) to clear the torque converter.You can now remove the bolts that attach the torque converter to the flywheel if it is to be removed for repair or replacement.It's tricky. It has to be straight in line both ways with the insertion point, and preferably supported on its balance point (balanced from fore and aft, and side to side), securely strapped (for example) from falling, not dangling or flopping around. But, it must be angled the same as the car is (if the front of the car is raised for instance). It would be easier, if the entire car were lifted, level, not angled.How do I get it out? If so, it may just be tight and need a little wiggling to get out.
The universal joint, which is on the front facing side of your rear end, has 4 bolts. Take those 4 bolts out, as well as the carriers (the parts that the bolts are holding). After that, take a screw driver and pop the end of the drive shaft out of the universal joint holder. The drive shaft will come down, and then you can simply pull it out of the transmission end.The transmission cooler should be flushed out, though.If the linkage moves freely, then that suggests an improper linkage adjustment. This could also be caused by a low fluid level.What can I do? It usually takes about 13 or more quarts of oil to fill it completely. Make sure not to spill it all over your face, though.Pneumatic (air) tools make the job faster and easier. It keeps changing the location of the transmission as the lift-arm changes its angle (the lift and transmission goes backward as it lifts and forward as it lowers). Be careful lowering and raising it. Amid the current public health and economic crises, when the world is shifting dramatically and we are all learning and adapting to changes in daily life, people need wikiHow more than ever. Your support helps wikiHow to create more in-depth illustrated articles and videos and to share our trusted brand of instructional content with millions of people all over the world. Please consider making a contribution to wikiHow today. To create this article, 12 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. This article has been viewed 115,057 times.By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Please help us continue to provide you with our trusted how-to guides and videos for free by whitelisting wikiHow on your ad blocker. If you really can’t stand to see another ad again, then please consider supporting our work with a contribution to wikiHow.