Putting the finishing touches on the wheel.
First:Now the spokes are beginning to tighten up nicely and the kinks in the wheel are becoming gradually smaller. Continue to incrementally tighten the spokes. Once things start to get really close use only quarter turns on each spoke. If you don't have a spoke tension meter then pluck the spokes like a guitar string and listen to the tone of the spokes. They should be relatively similar.
Second: Check the vertical true of the wheel to make sure is perfectly round. Once again use the brake pads as a reference.
Truing a wheel can be a long and arduous process, but also soothing and rewarding if you bring your patience some unencumbered time. Make sure to take your time and you will end up with a great wheel in the end. So give it a go and if things go wrong you can always take it into the LBS (Local Bike Shop).

....without a truing stand.
We wanted everybody to be able to build a wheel without buying an expensive truing stand, so just use the front fork. This video shows the process of truing.
First: Slightly lube each nipple, NICE! Second: If you have a truing stand then use it now, if not, flip your bike upside down and use the front fork as an improvised truing stand. It will do the job adequately, but if you want the wheel to be precise and perfect you probably want to use a truing stand. TRUING THE WHEEL Use the valve stem hole as a reference and tighten each spoke gradually until about three threads are showing on each spoke. After the first stage of tightening spin the wheel and take a look to see how the wheel spins. Most likely the wheel will be out of whack. Proceed to gradually tension the spokes one after another until the spokes begin to take on a descent amount of tension. The process is very systematic, try to get in zone and use it as a meditation exercise. Wheel truing takes time to master so do not get frustrated, just take it slow and steady. This is a where spoke tension meter could come in handy if you do not have a good feel for how much tension the spokes should have. If you are unsure check an already built wheel to compare the tension of its spokes to the new wheel's spokes. Third: After you have tensioned the spokes, check for errors in the wheel. If you are using a fork as a truing stand, use the brake pad as a reference and watch the edge of the rim to see where its out of true. Do things in very small increments! Use patience young Jedi.

Lacing the last 18 spokes to complete the lacing of this 36 spoke wheel!
First:Take the next set of spokes and drop them through the remaining holes from the outside of the flange.
Second:Twist the hub, so that the spokes run diagonally from the hub to the rim.
Third: Grab a spoke any spoke, and run the the spokes the opposite direction and cross them, OVER, OVER, UNDER, SKIP a HOLE, and thread into the rim. Remember not to over-tighten the spokes.
Fourth:Flip the wheel and drop spokes down through the holes on remaining flange. Do the same thing as the first side, OVER, OVER, UNDER and into the only remaining hole. Now the wheel is completely threaded, next up truing, grab a beer and watch the truing video.

1. Find the extra hole for the valve stem. This will act as a guide and help you keep track of where you are along the rim. It is also important to look through the holes on the rim because they are usually drilled at very slight angles, alternating from left to right to accommodate spokes coming from each side of the hub. With the first spoke you thread make sure that hole is slightly angled toward the correct side of the hub.

2.  Drop spokes into the hub, first through the outside of the flange toward other side of the hub, every other hole. Place the first spoke through the hole and screw on the nipple, just 2-3 turns, keep if relatively loose in the beginning. Once all the nipples are on the rim then you start tightening them gradually.

3.  After threading the first spoke, count three holes from from the first spoke and place the next spoke in the fourth. You are moving away from the valve hole. Do this around the entire rim.

4.  PAY ATTENTION: Look down through the holes in the hub and notice that they do not line up exactly, they are slightly offset. When you stick a spoke straight through the hub it will land between the two holes on the opposite flange. Find the valve stem hole and the corresponding spoke, drop the spoke through the hole on the opposite flange that positions the spoke directly behind the spoke that is next to the valve stem hole. After that spoke, drop in spokes every other one all the way around the hub.

5.  Find the valve hole and place the new spokes in the hole just behind the valve stem hole. Now you can use the flat head screw driver to give the nipples a few turns onto the spoke. Righty Tighty. The spokes should go into the hole behind the first set of spokes around the entire wheel. After this you will have half of the spokes on, all these spokes will be going inward toward the center of the hub and then up to the rim.

Continue onto part 2.1, lacing the rest of the bike wheel.

In this series we give you the basics of building a 36 spoke wheel. We begin with lacing the wheel, then show you the process of truing the wheel. So get everything together and make some time learn how to build a wheel, a very rewarding experience.  Check out this video on calculating spoke length if you need spokes!  We used the UBI Spoke Calculator.

What you need: First you need a bike rim.  A bike rim is what links the spoke to the hubs.  Next you need hubs.  We used really old school hubs in this video.  Last you need spokes of the correct length.  Make sure the number of holes on your hub and the number of holes in your rim are the same.  In order to connect the spokes to the rim you will need brass nipples as well.  The reason they are brass is so they are harder than the spoke material and brass will not fuse with the spoke.  The only two tools you really need to build this wheel are a spoke wrench and a screw driver.  Although it might no be absolutely perfect with out using some others, like a truing stand, spoke tensiometer and dishing tool.  Although it will be close, especially if you have mad skills.

The first task to start with is getting spokes that are the correct length. If you take on this task yourself you usually will have to know the details of the hub and rim you are using or make a few measurements of the hub flange and rim. Or just take the spoke and rim to most LBS (Local Bike Shop) and they measure and cut spokes for you for a price. There are a few online resources to that help you calculate what length spokes you need, here are a few of them:

By DT Swiss, maker of spokes

By Damon Rinard, Excel Based Spocalc, Requires Macros in Excel

By Dan Halem, uses Database of hubs and rims

By Roger Musson, Wheel Pro spoke caculator

Watch the spoke lacing video after you have gathered everything you need!

If you have the right tools removing your crank is a relatively simple and painless process.  In this video we removed a square taper crank, also know as a cotterless crankset.  These days there are many other varieties of crank connection systems, like Shimano's Octalink, or FSA's ISIS.  But on the majority of older bicycles, square taper is what you will be dealing with and in my opinion performs just as well as all that gimmicky new crap.  You just have to get out and ride!

After you've assembled the necessary tools the you're ready to remove the crank you can get started!

1. If you removing the right side crank arm, lift the chain off the chainring and rest it on the bottom bracket shell.

2. Remove the dust cover (cap covering the crank bolt).  The tool you need depends on the variety of cap.  Some of them will require an allen wrench, screw driver or, in this case, a Quarter does the job.  Be careful because most of the covers are pretty flimsy.  If you don't have one, its not really an issue, just maybe rub a little great on the crank bolt to keep it from rusting, if it is rustable.

3. Remove the nut or bolt from the crank arm!  Remember to do this, I'm an idiot and forgot to do this one time and spent a few hard minutes wrenching the crank puller like crazy until I realized I was an idiot and hadn't removed the crank bolt.   Most bolts are 14mm, some are 15mm or 16mm and some are allen head.  Unscrew it in the normal direction and check the inside of the crank for a washer and remove it, some have it, some don't.

4. Check to make sure you have the right size crank puller.  Crank arms secured by nuts require one type, bolts another and then you throw those crazy Italians (Campy) in the mix and you need another one.  Just make sure it seems to go together correctly or it could result in an epic fail.

5. Lube up the spindle and mating area (i.e. where the crank pull screws into the crank) Get you mind out of the gutter.

6. Unscrew the center portion of the tool out as far as it will go, the thread the out part of the tool into the crank arm, make sure it goes in all the way and then slightly tighten it with a wrench.  I was a little lazy on this part in the video, but its important if you don't want to rip out any of the threads you need to get the tool in as far as it will go.

7. Tighten the inner part of the tool into the part screwed into the crank until the crank pops of, sometimes you have to crank like hell, if you can postition the wrench arm and the crank so you can squeeze them together to get some leverage, or put a pipe over the end of the wrench for extra leverage.  (If you have a pipe laying around)

8. Pull the crank arm off and remove the tool, then repeat on the opposite side!

1. Find a girl on the streets, preferably a little tipsy, but in the sweet spot where she's not so tipsy that she will fall off the handlebars in mid ride (If you are bicycling girl looking to pick up a guy hit me up, I'm always available for women on bikes.)

2. Create attraction, generate trust, convince her to hop onto your handlebars (difficult step, unless you are James Bujold)

3. Have her stand over front wheel, place both hands on the handle bars and boost her self up onto them, have your hands already in place to maximize butt touchage.

4. Begin slowly, gaining speed as you both become more comfortable (like a relationship)

5. Sing to her, especially if she is tipsy.

6. Don't jump any curbs, or hit any sweet jumps, could end in epic fail or lawsuit.

Disclaimer: There are many things that could go wrong if this is done improperly (head wounds, unwanted pregnancy if you are overly suave). We relieve ourselves on any liability. And it feels good.

P.S. Having Bull Horn handlebars make this much easier.