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Trademarks and Copyrights are property of their respective owners. Login Registration is disabled. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it. Ok. Please do not offer the downloaded file for sell only use it for personal usage. Looking for other manual? For this no need registration. May be help you to repair. You could suffer a fatal electrical shock. Instead, contact your nearest service center. Note! To open downloaded files you need acrobat reader or similar pdf reader program. In addition, Also some files are djvu so you need djvu viewer to open them. These free programs can be found on this page: needed progs If you use opera you have to disable opera turbo function to download file. If you cannot download this file, try it with CHROME or FIREFOX browser. Translate this page: Relevant INSTRUMENT forum topics: BOSS MT-2 METAL ZONE Sziasztok! Megepitettem a cimbeli gitartorzitot, de nem jon ki belole az a hang, ami a YouTube-os demovideokon hallatszik. Ossze szeretnem hasonlitani egy gyarival. Van esetleg valakinek?You can write in English language into the forum (not only in Hungarian). Please note, that I noted down some additions, to the scans. These are not the originals!The pages are Format DIN-A3 (nearly double lettersize). The three rhythm sounds are: bass A standard pattern hi hat sound can Accents can also be programmed into Standard rhythm patterns were loaded into memory These controls are covered in detail NOTE: Do not change the position Writing a rhythm into memory will With Dr. Rhythm, each measure is In the example, the rhythm pattern Press enou 9 h times to light In the example, the bass drum sound Check by playing the rhythm, or In the rhythm shown, the rim shot If this is not done, the previously If no accents are desired at ail for the Writing 32- and 24-Step Patterns.
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If the VARIATION switch O is at B is a variation of the A pattern in Example of use. With a little forethought, it would be Position 6 would be used for the Controls the tone color of the per- Controls the dynamic range of the MAX, strong. If accents are not programmed, this This switch is for adding the hi hat At OFF, there is no hi hat sound. At For each position of RHYTHM In the PLAY mode: In the WRITE mode: VOLUME control O fully counter- NOTE: The POWER switch function Controls the tempo of the rhythm Flashes at the beginning of each In the PLAY mode, the TEMPO In the WRITE mode, the TEMPO indi- Determines whether the DR-55 is in When not actually programming Used to select sounds and accent In PLAY mode, determines which In the WRITE mode, these buttons By connecting a foot switch (such as For connection to an amplifier. A cord DBS: Outputs a pulse for each step CSQ: Outputs a pulse at each step When this jack is used, accents With new batteries, the output Remember that these pulse levels will Sequencer The CSQ-100 will advance one step The CSQ-100 will advance one step If the position of RHYTHM SELECT CSQ-100 GATE REWRITE mode Synthesizer Synthesizer. A percussion voice can be synthesized Examples: Use the CSQ-100 Digital. Sequencer for percussion voices with VARIATION Switch (A, AB, BIO. Jacks. Power Supply: 6V dc. Dimensions: 21 1 (w) x 1 16(d) x 53(h) mm. Weight: 850g. Accessories: Batteries UM-3. Connection cord (PJ-1). Specifications are subject to change Adjust TEMPO control as desired. BOSS' successful Dr. Rhythm Series. It was small, inexpensive and easyIncredibly basic controlsThe sounds areRoland's cheaper TR-machines (like the TR-505, TR-606 ). You can globallyOnly Kick, Snare, Rim Shot and. Accent could be placed in a pattern in step mode--the Hi-Hats could onlyPrimitive programming for sure, but very simple and effective. However it does have anYou may not find a need forNo Song mode.
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He also completely modded his machine and constructed a custom case. You can purchase the case directly from him: facebook site or website. This manual shows how to install uniPulse in the Boss DR-55 based on his instructions. Please read carefully before purchasing the uniPulse mod. If you want this to be done by a tech, get a quote first! The modification consists of replacing four jumper wires with diodes. You can use pretty much any kind of diode like 1N4148. Modifications Boss DR-55 An external case like this one is probably a good choice. Here you can see the uniPulse board (on the right) sitting in the case and wires connected to the DR-55 main board. Just make sure to connect GND of uniPulse to GND of the DR-55 You need to set up the Pulse outputs as: Positive, Rect, 6V. Linking the velocity to the voltage will give you some velocity control. We recommend to experiment with pulse shapes and lengths. Bookmark the permalink. Read more about this in our post. Dismiss If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it. Ok. No cleanup reason has been specified. Please help improve this article if you can. ( October 2009 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message ) It was the second entry in their DR series, following up on the much simpler DR-55.It has an LCD graphic display, showing a step-programming grid for the various drum voices. Rubberized touchpads each represent one of the DR-110 voices, and can be used to build a pattern in realtime as well as to enter and edit note data. Tempo is continuously variable between 45 and 300 bpm.These devices had much the same functionality as the DR-110, but relied upon digital button-press control of parameters rather than knobs.The cymbals and hi-hats are created by VCA -shaping and band-pass filtering a combination of white noise and four non- harmonically related square wave oscillators (generating a much more realistic sound than white noise alone).
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The clap sound uses only shaped white noise, but was triggered by a multiple pulse train, to create a reverberation effect. No tonal variation of the voices is possible; however (as with several earlier Roland drum machines), the relative balance is variable between the bass and snare drums versus the hi-hat and cymbal. An accent (volume increase) can also be added on any pattern step; the amount of accent is globally variable with a knob.Each pattern can be divided into 16 or 12 steps. A small battery retains memory content when the DR-110 was switched off.This output can be plugged into a keyboard amplifier or PA system.The entire LED screen shows. The user turns the unit off and then on to exit test mode and go back to normal mode.By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Terminal connectors: -CSQ series Sound edit 2 basic functions: - Sequencer only STEP entry mode. VARIATION function alternates patterns A- B automatically or manually selecting the relative bank. Sync system works only as master clock but ouputs triggers Memory the patterns memory is retained as long as there are batteries. Something went wrong. View cart for details. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. Tired of downloading the same vague schematics from yet another website, the copy that is copied ad infinitum on the web. Or did you buy a CD on eBay, full of the same rubbish. Time is money, and especially so for technicians. Time that should be dedicated to repair and not wasted with the frustrations of searching for a decent service manual. So here is a site with only high quality, high resolution service manuals, most of them carefully cleaned, restored and sometimes partially re-drawn. Here you will find no unreadable drawings or manuals with crucial pages missing. Here you get what you need for the job and get on with it. Free downloads instead of paying silly money for an email with attachment.
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Of course hi-res means large files. They can be up to 8 times the size of a lo-res scan. That means they need much more server space, space that has to be rented at costs that will come back every year. And many of the manuals you will find here had to be bought as hard copy originals from the manufacturers before they could be scanned at all. Most of this is funded privately, but there is a limit to this budget. Yes, you got it. donations. When this service is useful to you, and you not only want it to continue but to expand as well, that's the way. Contributions received will immediately result in more server space, giving room for more service docs. Donations will also open the way for later additions, such as synth chip data- sheets, synthesizer spec sheets, etc. Your donation will help to make this site a database for synth technicians as never before available on the world wide web. ENJOY! Needs replacing). Boss DR-55 Mods I have a boss dr-55 that i got off of ebay a while back.So I thought I would as the lovely electro-music.com munity.Other than that though, I'm really not sure what approach to take. If you guys could help that would be wonderful!I hope to get some sort of mod list going for other Dr-55 modders, because I know they're out there. Click on it to enlarge. Click on it to enlarge. I'll try to remember to look in my folder of mods to see if I have anything for this one.I could do parts of the schematic in there and fiddle around with it.Or even Falstad or Qucs. I've always done things empirically, that is, I use a lot of prototype board with real components. I'm also a bit of a test gear buff, so I have a few toys to use as well. If you've got the resources, pick up a good scope and maybe a signal generator, a frequency counter and a pulse generator. If you really want to get jiggy, buy one of the build-your-own-test-gear books. And of course, at some point, I would definitely suggest getting a copy of Electronotes.
I may do it for the hell of it, anyways. I've come across some cool stuff though! If it is the same on the PCB as shown in the service manual, perhaps a switch to re-route the trigger signal to the 'correct' node might be worth trying.The PCB image in the service manual is wrong.so what about the real pcbs??Personally not worth modding for me, but the Tune mod is ok. Click on it to enlarge. If you click through and buy from our affiliate partners, we earn a small commission. By using out site you agree to our use of cookies. Serviced and working as it. Select Currency Serviced and working as it should. Released in 1980. Classic Roland sounds in a portable, battery-powered format. Vintage Synth Explorer Boss DR-55 page has good info on this beat box. Just serviced. All working as it should. Very good condition. Minor signs of use. Box is worn but intact. Runs off 4 x AA batteries (supplied). Just Listed Serviced and sounding great. Will. So all of a sudden we have 50,000 followers on Instagram. A chance to look back at a few highlights, and to share a few. PUBLISHED: 12th Aug 2020 Inevitably some old faithfuls are being replaced - this is the. PUBLISHED: 12th Mar 2020 Calculated automatically at checkout. It's an update about gear. But, like, really cool gear. Specialising in British schematics Roberts, Hacker, Bush etc.Multi page manuals are Emailed as pdfs. Please Email if you have any queries,Thanks for looking, Mike.Some sources searched:-Gernsback 1922-34 Crosley 1929-42. Including to: Organs, Electronic Pianos)I no longer have hard-copy manuals, everything is only available in PDF. Email me for availability and terms on any manual or combination of manuals. If you don't see what you want listed, check with me anyway, as I might have it but don't have it listed, or can provide other sources for you to check with to find it. Thanks for your interest! I Version only - no Mk.
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II available)Piano SchematicsOperation ManualProgrammer), BrochureOperation ManualOperation ManualDrums Operation Manual, Schematics. Drums Operation Manual, SchematicsOperation ManualOperation ManualRevised: December 30, 2011. The labels on one of my DR-55s had faded long ago, and the hoods had yellowed slightly. Although you can clock other equipment from the DR-55, it would be nice to be able to use an external clock to sync the Boss to, which would allow the Boss to trigger yet more devices with its CSQ and DBS outputs (active on Accented steps only and every step, respectively). By replacing the existing FS jack socket, adding a small circuit, and replacing a jumper, we can safely trigger the DR-55 from an external trigger. The only two functional disadvantages of my mod are that you must set the Boss’ tempo to Fast, and to reset the pattern when stopped mid-way you need to remove the trigger plug.Below that is a parts list. Key to this is the replacement FS jack socket; it needs to be TRS (ie.I used a Lumberg KLBPSS3 (datasheet here, Farnell UK stock page here ). The photos below illustrate my own placement. The replacement connections for the upper and lower point of this removed jumper are shown in the diagram, and you can see in the photos how I wired this up. It’s edge triggered, so the pulse can be any length over a couple of milliseconds. The operating principle is to use the DR-55’s existing clock, but to gate it on for a very short duration; normally when the clock is gated off again, the pattern resets, but the new jack socket enables us to disable that by breaking the reset connection when a jack is inserted. This is because the DR-55’s clock, once triggered, finishes its pulse cycle. If this is longer than the incoming trigger cycle, it will ignore the new trigger; if we set the speed dial to its fastest, we can clock the DR-55 at any rate up to its natural maximum.
To reset the pattern at this stage, you need to unplug the trigger jack and hit Stop.In its original form, the DR-55 takes only batteries, and though this might be good for reducing cable clutter and having to find yet another wall-wart, it does mean you need to keep a regular stock of fresh AAs, and can guarantee that just when you want to use it, your DR-55’s batteries are too drained for the unit to function correctly. I provide instructions for this below. It’s not the only way to do the job, but this is how I did it, and it works just fine. Modding the DR-55 in this way means it no longer accepts batteries, which means two things: 1) you will need access to a 9V adapter, and 2) pattern data will not be retained on power-off. Given that filling the memory of this humble machine can be done in less than five minutes, and I never use this outside my own home studio, I never found memory retention to be an issue. It would be possible to design a DC input that also catered for memory backup via battery, but I’m not going there. I chose to use a 5V regulator propped up with a diode to give around 5.6V, but you could also use a 6V regulator and omit D2. The input jack I used is a 3.5mm mono minijack of the kind often used for audio and CV interconnects, mainly because I had lots of them and the holes are easier to drill than the larger ones needed for a plastic-bodied insulated barrel connector. Some barrel connectors do likewise. It will be panel-mounted using the socket: Black is ground, red is positive. This works, but you still need to insert an audio cable to turn the DR-55 on. It’s a simple mod that just means a couple of wiring changes. The audio output socket is wired by default to both ground and audio signal, as well as having two pins wired to act as a switch when a jack is insterted. We want to retain the audio and ground connections, but not the switch. We remove those wires and instead bridge the corresponding points on the PCB.
My humble DR-55 now works from a regular 9V DC wall-wart supply, and switches on whether or not its audio is connected.I recommend the following procedure: Those standoffs are better left attached to the body. Note the arrangement of the jack wiring when you gain access, as it’s easy to trap wires on reassembly. The Boss DR-55 Service Manual also recommends avoiding certain wire placement due to possible interference. Kick, Snare, and Rimshot can be programmed as desired, as can an Accent control that boosts the volume of the steps on which it appears. The Hi-hats are non-programmable and appear at every step, every other step, or not at all, as governed by a switch. The sounds themselves are generated by analogue circuits, and are simple but punchy, sounding similar to the CR-78. The only other control over the sounds is an overall Tone control, which is kind of a one-knob EQ and emphasises the lows or highs as swept along its rotation. Generally, each step is assumed to be a semi-quaver or 16th-note.The sounds are programmed separately, as governed by the Sound switch, allowing independent writing of the Kick, Snare, Rimshot, and Accent. Each time a button is pressed, the step is written with the appropriate data, and the pattern moves on to the next step. Programming is exited by switching back to Play Mode. All sounds are heard during programming. If the pattern or the pattern mode is switched during playback, the change is instantaneous. There are two outputs: DBS, which puts out a 5V pulse on every step, and CSQ, which puts out a 5V pulse on every Accent hit. When the CSQ output is connected, the Accent is disabled from the onboard sounds. The Accent level control has no effect on the output pulse level. There is no way to independently set their levels. However, it must be noted that the memory IC used in the DR-55 is only tolerant of low voltages (no more than around 7V max), and a fresh 9V PP3 will destroy it permanently and irreversibly.
The only solution is to replace the memory. Of course these ICs are obsolete and hard to find. Look after your DR-55! Low batteries affect memory retention and sound. It should also be noted that the DR-55 will not power up without a jack plugged into the audio ouput. It is a cheap source of a basic set of CR-78 style analogue percussion sounds, and is fun in combination with synthesizer arpeggiators and analogue sequencers. It was made to illustrate a working sale item, but shows effectively how cumbersome by modern standards the programming is. Simple rhythms are relatively painless to input, but anything remotely fancy takes a bit of thought.You get the idea, though. To find out more, including how to control cookies, see here. The start and stop pins remain at a high impedance and go low impedance 0V for approximately 12mS on receiving the respective MIDI start or stop. This was done for easy interfacing. It generates the 24 MIDI clocks per metronome by transmitting 6 MIDI clocks for every pulse of the DR-55 internal clock. A start and stop wire need to be wired to the DR-55 board (2 wires), they share the same holes as the start and stop buttons themselves. The final two wires are for the sync pulse. A jumper wire needs to removed and replaced with two wires. One wire being the DR-55 clock-out, the other being the DR-55 clock in, it's the jumper is right between the start and stop buttons, so it's not hard to find. The six wires run to a DB9 connector grafted into the side of the unit. You don't have to use a DB9 connector, thats just how I did it. I don't have my digital camera anymore, so I cant share photos of how I did it (maybe later if I get hold of one), but if you get the service manual off Colin Fraser's site (he is the man!), it's not too hard to trace the board. Because the stop button on the DR-55 normally stops the internal clock as well, if the clock continues to run in stop mode, the first step of the sequence keeps firing.
That might be fixed in code at a later date(I have an idea on how to do it), all depends on how much it pisses me off because in external MIDI sync mode, I never use the start and stop buttons on the DR-55 anyways. If I get hassled enough, I might fix it when I get the time. When the DR-55 is acting as a master sync, the start and stop work as expected. A 6N138 Opto-coupler is used for the MIDI input. R7 R8 and R9 limit the current on the output pins within the PIC spec. D1 is there to drop the supply voltage below 5.5V as required by the PIC specs. SW1 is a DPST switch (DPDT on the board) which acts to select the MIDI direction, and the DR-55 sync source. You can globally adjust the Volume, Tempo, Tone and Accent for the drum sounds.With the original box and paper. Follow this Product Gallery Product Specs Brand Boss Model DR-55 Dr. Rhythm Finish Black Year 1980s Made In Japan Show More Similar Products From the Price Guide Sell Yours Please check the fields highlighted in red.Currency. Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Estimated delivery dates - opens in a new window or tab include seller's dispatch time, and will depend on postal service selected. Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods. Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended.
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Refunds by law: In Australia, consumers have a legal right to obtain a refund from a business if the goods purchased are faulty, not fit for purpose or don't match the seller's description. More information at returns. All Rights Reserved. Did you miss your activation email ? When I tracked down the schematic, I found that the actual drum sounds themselves are produced by really simple discrete designs. Each drum is no more complex than your average fuzz circuit! (pay no attention to the hi-hat because it sounds like crap). That got me to thinking. Would it be possible to use a simple sequencer like RG's to cycle through toggle switches that would trigger the drum sounds. This is the schematic: Boss DR-55 Schematic (140kb) The Service Manual that contains a detailed parts list and a supersized schematic is available here: Essentially what you had was a master clock (usually 555-based) that stepped a bank of 4017 counters through their paces (these can be cascaded for more than a 10-step limit). The output of the various 4017 pins would then be enabled by means of dipswitches, and routed to drum voices awaiting a trigger pulse. This would let you physically SEE a sequence by noting whether the dipswitch for step N was in the on or off position for the bass drum. While entirely non-volatile and not requiring anything terribly extensive with respect to digital circuitry, programming, or interfacing, it's obviously a crude system, and cumbersome to reprogram. On the other hand, can be built quite simply and if you're nimble in such matters, can also be designed to have alternating patterns. ETI had a few projects of such a nature. There are lots of resources on the net. Those projects may be among them. Midwest Analog Products ( ) has some stuff.Mark Hammer: thanks for the suggestion of using a 4017 decade counter combined with a switch matrix. That looks like the solution -except- is it possible to only use 8 stages of the 4017?
10 isn't a very musical number of beats for a drum machine. If I switch to write mode and start triggering sounds they all sound correctly. In play mode none of the steps written gets memorised and I can only hear the HHs triggering and correctly following tempo and set grid. The previous owner already thanged the memory chip to no avail. I did investigate some things and it seemed the 4011 responsible for the clock generator circuit goes bad sometimes, although the clock seems to work fine if the HHs and tempo are working as they should (am I right assuming this?). I did swap the 4011 for good measure but still kept doing the same. I dug a little more on the sequencer write functions and now my attention is drawn to the delay circuit, which could be responsible for data not getting written. The main component would be Q16 transistor. Am I in the right track or should I look nowhere else. Perhaps the binary counter. Thanks in advance for any clues. They can be damaged if a switch takes a knock. Regarding the 5501 RAM, the failure mode on these I've seen in the DR-55 results is a constant stream of all sounds simultaneously (except the hats, which are not triggered by the memory but by a clock division). If you're not hearing any 'programmed' sounds at all during playback but are hearing them correctly when programming them, I wouldn't immediately suspect the RAM. Hopefully it's something like a cracked trace or bad solder joint and a quick jab with an iron will sort it out. As for the 4520 counter, you should see the LED light up on the first beat of every pattern. If it's doing that correctly, I wouldn't worry about the 4520. They can be damaged if a switch takes a knock. If it's doing that correctly, I wouldn't worry about the 4520. Thanks, that's very insightful. I feel like I'm nearly there with that info or at least I have some more to work with. I do hear the hats as I record a pattern, indeed so that is a good sign.
I'll check traces around Q16 and possible cold joints and post the results. I reflowed all solder joints around Q16 area and, to my surprise, in write mode I could record instruments to the steps and hear them memorized as I cycled through the pattern with the accent for example, pressing the stop button (all in write mode). This didn't happen before in any case. Switching back to play resulted in empty pattern again (just hihats triggering when switched on). This behavior didn't last long though, as cycling power again reverted to the old behavior: no previously recorded instruments in the steps can be heard in write mode. This leads me again to think of intermittent component failure rather than the solder joint itself, but now I'm more puzzled about what could be causing this. Oh dear. This might be a stupid question, but are your battery connections good and are you using fresh batteries? Oh dear. This might be a stupid question, but are your battery connections good and are you using fresh batteries. Sure, first thing I did was puting a new set of batteries. Also, you can tell they're low when the sound is degraded, which is not the case. Replaced D5 with no changes whatsoever. Replaced Q16 and Q15 with no changes whatsoever. I socketed all ICs, including memory chip, to test with replacements. No changes. Further inspecting the electrolytic caps, the whole PCB seems to have been recapped by a the previous owner, save for C39 (next to D5). I still get 5,30V at leg 22 of IC1 mem chip, so I'm not sure if that's causing any trouble. However, intermittent write mode working might indicate a voltage issue affecting IC1. Replacing the old electrolytic won't do any harm so we'll see how that goes. The value of the old cap was 47uf and the service manual indicates 22uf so I used that instead, but as I say, to no avail. Also replaced R65 near it but that wasn't failing either.