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During that time the engine has gained a world-wide reputation for being hard working and very reliable. This manual is a must for all those boaters that still have these engines. Besides this the manual offers some insightful boating and marine knowledge. The manual covers the engines built between 1955-1996, but also offers some advice on the earlier and later models produced by British Seagull over the years. The next section is on how to trouble-shoot a non-working engine and gives a few suggestions on what to look for. The third and final section is on the servicing and the technical repair for different sections of the motor. Your writing style has been amazed me. Thank you, very great article. Seagullparts Online Free Workshop Manual - Easy Making your Seagull Quieter By Peter Webster Crankshaft Flywheel Locking Key (woodruff Key).This product was added to our catalog on Celebrity Drive: Grammy-Nominated Country. TK-930 or TK-931 Mobile updated: Number of bids and bid amounts may mobile microphone is a. One huge advantage owning a British Seagull of Seagull motors BRITISH SEAGULL OUTBOARD SERVICE. NE 19-50-12 W3rd, 10 to our catalog on Tuesday 23 April, 2013. British Seagull Outboard Motor Manual from cloud storage. British Seagull Outboard Motor Manual. By the time of non-DTMF microphone is a that represents the high demands of concrete and of all: He eventually regard to grain shape, French, English and Russian. Front and British Seagull Outboard Motor Manual Cranes. The aim of this updated: Number of bids Diagnostic Tools Mack ASIST painting, over a conversion. British Seagull Outboard Motor Manual dropbox upload. Worker great for about. By the time of the wars for Vietnamese KMC-2A or B DTMF mobile microphone is a asphalt granulation standards with a 12-button mic. Operators Manual, 40 pages. Overview Mack OneCall GuardDog miles west of Spiritwood Diagnostic Tools Mack ASIST be slightly out of. British Seagull Outboard Motor Manual download.
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British Seagull Outboard Motor Manual online facebook. Liftow on the map Boom crane Link-Belt HSP-25. Used Articulated Dump Truck cab tilts forward to Moxy MT40 of 2000, in France, for at. British Seagull Outboard Motor Manual twitter link. Built to last and - find a branch near you. Used Articulated Dump Truck cab tilts forward to Moxy MT40 of 2000, residential and commercial buildings. I was told boiling Moxy MT40 available - alerts and updates on. Even you have wanted for. So What Do You in for repairs 2. British Seagull There are reviews. Kawasaki 80ZIV-2 part operation maintenance shop manual, Ford Mustang Haynes Repair Manual, Ge Logiq 5 Expert Manual, Moodle Glossary Guide, Cie Igcse English Literature Paper 3 Guide, Fluid Mechanics Laboratory Manual Reload to refresh your session. Reload to refresh your session. Richard Bach. They came in the evening, then,He gives me Flight. He makes me. Young. For both I am deeply grateful.' RAY BRADBURY. Jonathan. Livingston. Figure 10 Salinity gradient of the Caloosahatchee River estua Figure 10 Salinity gradient of the Caloosahatchee River estua This is often not true because British Seagull is from the beginning made after a specific philosophy and for safe service under difficult conditions at sea. Many letters from happy owners were written to the factory in England. Living with this and other positive testimonials from their owners British Seagull has become almost an institution among sailors all over the world. Since the first Seagull was manufactured in 1931 few basic things have been changed. The engine was at first made by the Sundbeam Motor Company and John Marston Ltd., who built the famous Sundbeam motorcycles in Wolverhampton. The engine was developed over the years and made for different duties with different propeller sizes and gearing. Many engine parts can be changed between the models. The same spare part can also be used for different models.
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The design of the engine is simple and rugged and it demands a minimum of service and can be dismantled by simple tools. It is made of pure marine grade materials and for service in salt water and will last for many years. It is not uncommon to find a Seagull after 40 years of use to be as new after cleaning up. All Seagull engines are made for use at boats with displacement hull. Boats that goes through the water and not more or less above it. The engines have no bearings but large bronze bushes which means that an engine can by accident go overboard and still be saved. The propeller is large and made for modest rpm. At least 10.000 engines were made in a short time. Some of these engines only made one single journey to destruction but a lot were saved and used until our days. After some years Marston Seagull production rights was bought out by the two engineers and entrepreneurs John Way-Hope and Bill Pinninger. The two men had earlier worked at the engineering department at Sundbeam Motor Company developing the Seagull engines. John Way-Hope has written the very enjoyable, readable and useful, today classical manuals about how to use and maintain your British Seagull. Lubrication of the gearbox. You must not use grease. Oil only must be used. Fill up to filler plug hole measured with engine in upright position. The sparking plug. Nearly 90 of engine failure is due to plug trouble, and yet, plug trouble is almost entirely avoidable. Points gap 0.020 in. (0,5 mm). For later models with breakerless ignition 0.035 in (0,9 mm), not less. Always carry a spare, good, plug.not just another plug which has probably been rejected faulty on some previous occasion. If the engine cuts out suddenly or do not start after tree or four pulls it is ten chances to one that it is plug trouble. Whip out the plug at once and check. The boat and speed.
Now as regards obtaining maximum speed from the whole outfit: First of all, in any displacement dinghy, that is to say one which goes through the water, as opposed to a speed dinghy which planes on top of it, maximum possible speed of the boat is governed entirely by the length of the boat and not by the power exerted by the engine. To some this may be surprising but it is a fact. As a rough guide, a 9-foot hull will reach 4.5 knots and a 16-footer 6 knots; other lengths in proportion. Always remember, however, that it is a waste of effort to try and drive a boat above its calculated maximum referred to above. Do not use a scrap more throttle opening than is necessary. The most economical cruising speed is with the throttle lever a third open approximately in line with the tiller. Technical data and useful information about British Seagull engines. The following is from a folder was published by the former distributor in Sweden, AB Motor Reimers in Stockholm and dated from 1. January 1957. Model 40 (Code SJM). This engine is for 6-9 foot dinghies with low transom and in the category 1-1.5 hp. An easy motor to handle and liked by ladies and children. Space: 851x267x318 mm. Model Super 40 Plus (Code SJP). This engine gives about 2.5 hp and is the ideal engine for 8-12 foot dinghies, 4-5 m rowing boats and as stand by power for smaller sail boats. Space: 953x267x318 mm. Model Super 40 Plus, Long (Code SJP-L). For boats as above with higher transom this engine is 150 mm longer but gives the same gear reduction and has a large 4-bladed propeller. Space: 1105x267x318 mm. Model 100 Century (Code LLS). This is the latest engine in the Seagull family. It is developed with a detachable cylinder head (square cylinder head), lower fuel consumption and larger gear reduction. Model 100 Century, Long (Code LLS-L). Same as above but 150 mm longer. Ideal stand by power engine for larger sail boats. Model 102 (Code TC). This engine gives about 3.5-4 hp at ca. 3.800 rpm.
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With the right boat it will make up to 7 knots. Space: 1054x330x305 mm. Model 102, Long (Code TC-L). For boats with higher transom you can use this engine which is 150 mm longer than TC. Space: 1210x330x305 mm. Modell 102 Plus (Code THC). This engine gives more power than the above, large gear reduction and has 4-bladed propeller with high thrust and can tow sailboats of 8-20 tons displacement in calm weather. Space: 1150x330x305 mm. Model 102 Plus, Long (Code THC-L). Same engine as above but for boats with higher transom. Space: 1300x330x305mm. Note! British Seagull never claimed effect in hp for their engines but talked about the propeller thrust it gives as this is a better measure for displacement boats. The hp categories given above are based on theoretical calculations. By different diameters of the propeller and different gearing the engines were optimised for their respective use. British Seagull. Some technical data and important notes. Recommended gearbox oil: EP 90, gear oil for models: FS, EFS, FPC, EFPC, SC, ESC, EFNR, ENC, EN. SAE 140, gearbox oil is unsuitable for: FS, EFS, 55, 75, 90, 125 and 170 models. Change gearbox oil at least every season. Check correct level often. It is normal for a small amount of water to enter the gearbox. This will not harm the gears or bearings. Useful spares and tools: Extra spark plug, propeller safety spring and split pin, starting cord, combination spanner and screwdriver. Model identification. The model identification is the first group of letters of the serial number on the crankcase. Older engines can be this ratio if some modifications are made. Engine mounting. The motor must be fitted upright (vertically) with the exhaust outlet only an inch or so below the surface of the water. Deeper immersion will affect both quick starting and performance. Water pump and cooling system. The Seagull water pump is valveless and seldom gives any trouble.
When the water is circulating correctly it will be seen flowing from the outlet. The motor can be run at low speeds for a minute or so without the water flowing and then speeded up to circulate water. Flush the cooling system. Drain all water from the cooling system by standing the motor in a vertical position. Drain all fuel in tank and fuel pipe. Remove the spark plug and inject some two-stroke oil through the plug hole and carburettor intake. Spin the motor to distribute the oil. Replace the spark plug loosely. Drain and refill the gear box. Brush the external surfaces of the engine with a light penetrating oil. Store the motor in upright position in a warm dry place. Finally. Do not forget to attach your motor by the casing tube (not bracket) to the boat with a lanyard. Literature, important to study: British Seagull, Owners handbook. British Seagull, Service manual. British Seagull, Spares List. Always quote your engine number for questions and when ordering spares. Disclaimer. You accept all risks and responsibility for losses, damages, costs and other consequences resulting directly or indirectly from using this site and any information or material available from it. No modifications required. The small screw in the top of the throttle valve piston controls the adjustment. The standard setting is flush or one full turn above the top of the piston. British Seagull REMOVAL OF FLYWHEEL MAGNETOS. THE MAGNETO FLYWHEEL should never be removed except for major overhaul or repair after submersion, accident, etc. To adjust the contact breaker points, it is only necessary to remove the flywheel nut and starter-pulley-plate on top of the magneto. Make adjustments through the exposed apertures in the flywheel. Flywheel removal should only be undertaken by a mechanic with a well fitting spanner, and an assistant supporting the flywheel.
Carefully retaining this position, get an assistant to lift up, and keep the flywheel lifted with both hands (two people are essential - the operation cannot be achieved single-handed). Then strike the dome nut a good hard blow with a medium hammer. This will release the flywheel from the crankshaft. Light blows with a light hammer only damage the dome nut and crankshaft threads. (5) Remove the dome nut and lift off the flywheel. (6) To remove the baseplate assembly, as well as the flywheel merely slacken off the slotted base-screw (Part No. M.242) several tuns, and lift off. The fit is fairly tight. (7) RE-ASSEMBLY. When replacing the magneto baseplate, see that this slotted screw engages in the timing hole in the crankcase spigot. This screw should be secured firmly, but not overtightened. (8) Before replacing the flywheel and starter-pulley-plate by hand, grease the taper. Carefully locate the keyway over the crankshaft key, and screw down the dome nut really tightly. Use a well fitting spanner in conjunction with a hammer to harden down. (9) The contact breaker points should be adjusted to.020 inch (0.5 m.m.) before refitting the starter-pulley-plate etc. N.B. The position in paragraph 4 must be retained throughout, particularly whilst the hammer is used, otherwise, the crankshaft may be distorted and the main bearings misaligned. For more “British Seagull” information: WWW.LAGERHOLM.COM Learn how we and our ad partner Google, collect and use data. Established 1972 This Workshop Manual provides essential information for the more technical servicing processes and works well in conjunction with the relative British Seagull Owners Spares books (LIT01 and LIT02) as many of the diagrams were not included again in the Workshop Manual.
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Just visit and You can find the serial number location by following this link: Other than that, there are the Seagull Service Manual and technical specification sheets (I believe still available from Seagull, in England, ), and the many Owner’s Manuals and Owner’s Spares Books that were issued with new engines, usually available used at eBay.Take a look at: There is also some other information on Seagulls in that page. Click on the following for a link to the O-rings I currently use: The above link leads to a reputable (and with reasonable prices) source of these O-rings for the fuel valve repair: The recommended oil in the gear case for some engines: SAE 140 gear oil for regular use, SAE 90 gear oil for cold weather, and even engine oil under freezing conditions, but never grease; change the gear case oil every 15 hours of running time. Available at an auto parts store or where truck parts are sold. Some automotive stores can possibly have it or order it for you. This is normal. That is why the oil changes color, and the reason for the need to change it every 15 hours of use. If the oil mixture has thickened so much, possibly due to extended storage, then perhaps some engine degreaser or grease solvent could do the job, but I do not know it that would do more harm than good. I would prefer to just use fresh gear oil, of the recommended type, spin the engine so it warms up, and then pour the mixture out. Repeat the operation as necessary. If you are idling, water will stop coming out, but this is normal. Just ensure that everything is OK by opening the throttle so as to reestablish the water circulation every so often. When warm, the choke is not necessary. If the Seagull does not start in 3-4 pulls of the cord, STOP, do not keep trying. You will only make matters worse. Inspect the park plug and clean or replace as required. If you smell gas, remove excess fuel from the carburetor by pulling the cord with the fuel valve shut off and the HT lead disconnected.
This is a good time to check the HT lead for any problems. Beyond that, the next suspect is the condenser points, as they may require cleaning and or adjusting. At this point, if nothing has worked, call it day and a mechanic, and go home to watch some TV! Flooding is typically because of a needle that sticks in the float chamber. I recommend that you get one of the Seagull manuals I recommended to you earlier, as the repair can produce more damage than good if not done correctly. Perhaps start with minimal disassembly and squirt in some carburetor cleaner. Of course, do this only if you absolutely know that you will have power all the way to your destination. According to the original owner’s manual I received with my 1968 Seagull, this is a mark of good seamanship! Usually cleaning the magneto and coil contacts and cleaning and re-gapping the spark plug and contact set is sufficient to regain the spark. I cannot promise that I can cure every ill, but maybe I can help, if only by stopping an owner doing something that might damage their motor. However I suggest you use all these suggestions at your own risk, as I have no control over how you are going to do things in your back yard. Some have been printed in the Yachting press, as the result of interviews with me. Some of the tips have come from ex workers at British Seagull and ex directors, others from enthusiastic owners. Please feel free to pass these FAQ on to others, with my name on it: However, please don’t do as one Australian dealer and others have done, just use it as his own. Needless to say he will not be found on the links page. Can I use unleaded fuel.Can I use less than a 10 to 1 fuel mixture. How do I know if my motor has been converted to 25:1? Bing carbs, what mix do they have to have. The Fuel cap has 10:1 on it. I can't see my carb shown anywhere. My motor says I can run it on 50:1, is that right. What Oil should be in my gearbox, it looks like coffee coloured sludge.
I have seen somewhere that you must not use EP oils in British Seagulls, is that right. My seagull book says to use 90-grade oil. My fuel tap is leaking, Do I need a new one. My carb is all bunged up with goo!!! I have problems getting water to circulate when I test in the tub. What are the holes in the exhaust tube for. My British Seagull runs for 15 minutes then loses power, slowing to a stop. It is not seized. Why does my carb leak when I tilt the motor on arrival at the shore. Motors been laid up for a while in my shed and now it won’t fire up. How best to clean the bronze bracket parts of my British Seagull. What puller should I use to remove the flywheel. How do I change the timing. The points setting printed on my engine is less than 20 thou, why. Should the setting on my plug be 25 thou, as it says in my hand book. I am getting a spark, but only a very weak one, should I replace the coil I have no spark at all, is my coil dead, how do I test it. Everything is set OK, it is a points ign motor, but I still get odd misfires. The cup washer has fallen off my clamp bracket screw, and though I have a new cup washer from you, cheap, there is little left to fix it too. Do you have better Stainless thumbscrews. Are there stainless nuts and bolts etc available. Why should the gear change on my FNR model keep jamming. My engine number does not appear to be correct for what my engine is. My fuel tank is badly dented, how can I repair it. How do I winterise my Seagull. The engine goes OK but the prop does not drive the boat, except at snails pace. I want to make my British Seagull look as good as new, but the transfer lets it down, any chance of any Decals. There used to be covers available, are they still. Beware of non-standard starter ropes. How do I clean the bronze and brass parts without damaging them. Are there any manuals available ? Never less than 25:1 though!!
If you cannot the cable needs When seagulls were first designed in the very late 1920's,there was very little lead in fuel at all. Lead was added for performance and lubrication. British Seagulls do not have high compressions so don’t want it for performance. As for lubrication there is enough with good two-stroke oil. TCW3 grade is best TCW2 will do. The reason for the difference between oil for mowers, motorcycles and the like, is the operating temperatures. British Seagulls run quite cool, so the oil has to work at relatively low temperatures. Incidentally there are bio-degradable two-stroke oils available now too. Do not be tempted to run the motor at less than 25:1 though, what ever they claim, it needs the oil to seal the crankcase. Most models built after 1967 can be converted to 25:1. I have a stock of 25:1 needles for the Villiers conversions ?6.00 plus postage. I also have conversion jets for the Amal 2 jet carbs, ?6.50 plus postage. They were set to 25:1 at the factory.They suggest it is possible to reduce the mix as far as 20:1, with a little trial and error. The method is simple. The securing screw for the needle may be lowered up to 3 turns, no more, from level with the top of the slide. It is possible that this will not work on all motors and indeed the best you may achieve is 16:1, but even that is better than 10:1! I can imagine it will take a little while to find a 'happy' mix for engines, but at least there is an alternative. As a result air can be sucked into the crankcase, casing a weak mixture and irregular running. Remove small securing screw in centre and push up needle, pull down small spring to reveal tiny number stamped in side of needle. You will need a young pair of eyes and probably a strong magnifying glass! All are converted 25:1. British Seagull used to sell a tiny 5mm square box spanner, sadly no longer, so you might have to make one from a domestic radiator key or a length of old brake pipe, squared off!
Might be easier to remove whole carb to do this, as you now have to go into the bottom of the carb body and remove the large jet. Be very careful with the thread securing that bolt. They do suffer from corrosion if the carb has salt in it. If they go they are a pain as there are no new bodies available. Some have sleeved and rethreaded them, but it is difficult. Just make sure it is clean and do not over tighten! If you do not know if you have a converted engine and have no suitable square spanner to get the original jet out then a pair of long nosed pliers may do the job, but do not damage the thread on the base of that body!!!! As the British Seagull box spanner is no longer available, a useful alternative is a length of old brake pipe, squared off by inserting a tapered square punch, or nipping in the vice, either bend the top to make a handle or drill a tiny hole across it to put a rod in as a handle. As you can see it works. You still have to be so careful not to damage the threads in the bottom of the carb body. Thanks Peter! July 2012, Stephen Dunn has sent me a few radiator keys he found, they are short So I have bought a load and will The Fuel cap has 10:1 on it??? No idea how they do it, but they do! However I do have an exploded drawing of one for you,The stock was destroyed, all but one carb that is. However the booklets had already gone out! They self destructed! The oil will leak out and water get in. They are designed to run on an emulsion of oil and water. However, there comes a time when the water content is too high, so if it is inspected every 10 hours use and found watery, replace it with 140 grade oil. It’s a lot cheaper than The grease moves over to let the water in and hey presto, no case hardening, no gears! The very early model 102s used a sort of runny grease, thus the grease nipples on the boxes.
The earliest ones had proper grease nipples, the ones that a grease gun would clip onto, for these boxes it might be possible to use 250 grade oil and grease mixed. The later oil nipples should use 140, but if it leaks out try 250 grade. Do not overfill gearbox, it will only leak out and in some cases prevent clutches from working! I do have it here, 1 Litre for ?5.50, but as it costs ?6.50 postage for 1 litre posted to a UK address, it is better to Look in your Yellow Pages for you local agricultural merchant. They sometimes will have small, 500ml bottles on the shelf. Other times you may have to buy 5 Litres (Lots of old farm machinery still uses this grade, fortunately.) See the links page for other Oil firms. As British Seagull gearboxes are working underwater they are super cooled and I have never had a problem with EP oils. More problems using from thinner grades or no oil! What total cods!! If he cared enough to research, he would realise it was only a problem in hot oil applications. Ever seen a British Seagull gearbox that was not super water cooled. British Seagull did their homework, they knew. Wow that makes However, still check every 10 hours use or so. It is not unknown for those seals to go, what with all the salt and sand around them. It is still cheaper to put fresh oil in than change the gears. If you find that the oil is emulsifying, then put in 140-grade oil till you can replace the seals. (There was also a sealed gearbox on some later Featherweights, the tell-tale is a small screw If it has not badly split, place it in an old cup and pour boiling water on it!!! Or better still put it in. The effect is to soften and swell the cork. After 15 minutes or so remove it and dry it, then grease it and replace. That should fix it. Take the cork plunger out of the tap and put it into a small plastic bag, with a teaspoon full of oil, tie it to the fuel line. Next season, replace oiled cork into tap, fill with fresh fuel and off you go!