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If you continue without changing your settings, we'll assume that you are happy to receive all cookies on the website. However, you can read our Cookie Policy here. Accept and Continue. Boiler Buying Guide 2020 Boiler Efficiency Ratings Which is the Best Combi Boiler in 2020. What is the SEDBUK Rating. What is a Condensing Boiler. What is a Regular Boiler. What is a System Boiler. What are Biomass Fuels. Boiler Buying Guide 2020 Boiler Efficiency Ratings Which is the Best Combi Boiler in 2020. What is the SEDBUK Rating. What is a Condensing Boiler. What is a Regular Boiler. What is a System Boiler. What are Biomass Fuels. We recommend that you upgrade to a new, more efficient boiler to help reduce fuel bills and carbon dioxide emissions. Get a repair quote Upgrade to a New, More Efficient Boiler Get boiler quotes today Visit Boiler Guide to get free no-obligation quotes from trustworthy heating engineers in your area. Enter postcode Get Quotes Similar Boilers to the Chaffoteaux et Maury Britony Combi 80 (Non-Condensing Gas Combi) Results ordered by efficiency. Some models may be obsolete. Chaffoteaux et Maury Centora Green 18-24 Eurocondens 18-24 89.4 Efficient Chaffoteaux et Maury Minima HE 35 89.1 Efficient Chaffoteaux et Maury Centora Green System 24 89.0 Efficient Chaffoteaux et Maury Centora Green 24 88.9 Efficient Most Efficient Non-Condensing Gas Combi Boilers Results ordered by efficiency. Some models may be obsolete. Scroll down to find the manual you want or use the search bar to search by the boiler name or gas council number. Gas101 is still under construction, and we are continuously updating our collection of boiler manuals. You can help by CLICKING HERE if you notice any errors or missing manuals. We have spent many hours sourcing these manuals and adding the gas council numbers to each one and would really appreciate any feedback you might have. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
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The boiler kept igniting, but stopped and started. Today, I changed the valve, which cost ?60. Turned the boiler on, but there's loads of air in. The boiler still ignites, but much the same as before - stops and starts. Now, I realise all the air should be out of the boiler first. But, as there's no manual to refer to, is this boiler self-bleeding. I've run it for 30 mins. Once, the pressure dropped to zero, so I presume that was air being vented. I left it to cool for an hour, and re-pressurised. It's still full of air. So, I have 2 questions - 1, Does the previous intermittent firing sound like the 3 way valve - and has she wasted ?60? 2, How do you bleed the boiler, if needed. Thanks in advance.Diverter valves on this boiler are prone to failure, so chances are it will be useful one day. The boiler has an AAV (automatic air vent) above and behind the pump. Providing the small red plastic cap on it is open, it should vent the air. You probably need to find a boiler engineer who understands how the Britony works. The best manual for this boiler is the manual for the Baxi Genesis (which is virtually the same boiler) - try the Partsarena site.A further development - The guy she bought the house from says he had the same problem. An engineer changed two thermisters at a cost of about ?20. He showed him how the old ones had scaled up. Problem solved. Once I get hold of a manual, I'll find and change them again. Fingers crossed. Click to expand. I read your post and meant, 'once I get hold of a manual from the partsarena site'. Been there and found the info I needed. Thanks for that. The boiler still doesn't work after changing the 3 way valve, bleeding the boiler as you suggested and checking the thermisters for scaling (still looked like new). The pump runs constantly, and the boiler still tries to fire up intermittently. I swapped the wires over to the 2 thermisters, and it worked a treat, until the boiler didn't stop boiling and made a noise like a jet taking off.
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After I'd ducked a bit, I checked the wiring diagram to make sure and put them back onto their correct thermisters. The 'friend' is adamant that the 3 way valve was the problem, and after 16 years in the trade, he says he knows what he's talking about. Decided to call in British Gas and pay them the ?132 to sort it out. I'll let you know when they've been if I am that idiot - or if the egg is on someone else's face. My daughter's still ?60 out of pocket, plus the British Gas charges. I suppose there's a moral in there somewhere? The fault was nothing to do with the 3 way valve. They found the flow-pressure valve faulty. This possibly caused one thermister to go out of calibration. (So much for my visual check of the thermisters) They changed both parts and all was at peace with the world. Less than an hour, including paperwork. Great service and great result. (No, before you ask, I'm with NPower) All for a measly ?132 all-inclusive charge. Thought I'd let you know in case anyone else has a similar problem. Click to expand. Sounds like the basic problem was the air in the system. -Was the auto air vent screwed shut?. The CH flow switch should have stopped the boiler if it was low on water. By the way the different looking Chaff Instrs are at I may have got the name wrong. They changed the complete part - and the corresponding thermister. All I know is, it worked when they'd done. And I watched them. Plus, it's not really in their interests to tell me porkys, is it. They don't get any more money for it. No, the pressure was fine and the system quiet once I vented the air as instructed previously with the AAV. The AAV - It has a red cap. The cap was screwed down. I unscrewed the cap, vented the air, and rescrewed the cap down. Are you saying the cap should be left permanently unscrewed to vent the air. Either way, if it was purely air in the system, once I'd vented the air, the boiler should have fired, no. And, the boiler didn't fire in either hot water or ch mode.
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I know for a fact the red cap has never been touched before the problem started. I don't mean to sound like I'm arguing, cos I don't know enough about boilers to be able to argue. I'm just stating the facts, and the questions they raise in my mind. I'm grateful for any help and advice anyone ever gives me. No I'm not arguing, I'm just interested to know what the problem was and there isn't a part with a name anything like you were told. Inside part 9 there's a switch which detects the flow of water (boiler side). What happens is that the pump has nothing to pump except air, and the water can't get out of the boiler so it boils (jet engine noises!). If it (9) was sticking - generally, it could also have been what stopped the boiler firing when there was water flowing. It's a straightforward bit to diagnose, being electrical. With the thermistor, about ?30, must put my prices up!They listed the 2 parts on there. They had to fill in the cost of the parts, and they said they were about ?60? I'll reply in a couple of days. You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local. Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab See the seller's listing for full details. Contact the seller - opens in a new window or tab and request post to your location. Please enter a valid postcode. Please enter a number less than or equal to 6.
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Sellers may be required to accept returns for items that are not as described. Learn more about your rights as a buyer. - opens in a new window or tab You're covered by the eBay Money Back Guarantee if you receive an item that is not as described in the listing. We may receive commission if your application for credit is successful. Terms and conditions apply. Subject to credit approval. We may receive commission if your application for credit is successful. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. We've had an engineer out this week to service the boiler and diagnose the faults and he's come back with that it needs a new 3 way valve (motor) but nothing about the PCB. Would it be advisable to have the PCB replaced at the same time as the motor given the recurrent problem rather than pay out two sets of call out fees or could the stuck valve also cause the above error code in some way. If money were no object we'd probably replace the boiler but that isn't really an option at the moment. Thanks in advance for any comments. Dave.I think the cost of the PCB itself is around ?115-?120 pounds. I've found the Operating Manual (I think) if its useful at all: However, the company we used for the servicing has given quite a high quote for the PCB and slightly above the upper end of the price range we've found on line. We've not been overly impressed with them so far (mostly v. poor communication at every stage, and not very competitive) so we will be getting some more quotes. You can download the free Boiler Manual for the Chaffoteaux Minima Mx2. 1574692 Ariston 60000469 Pcb Ncb-Mcu Ff 65100774 60000469 H18971 H59008.Reload to refresh your session. Reload to refresh your session. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience. I have a Chaffateaux and Maury Britony Combi SE boiler which has broken down.
according to the flashing lights on the front the problem is 'no flame detection'. I called British Gas for a one off repair who recommended I spread the cost and take out a maintenence contract with them (of course), I thought it would be easier on my wallet not having to pay them a lump sum so took them up on the offer.The engineer came to my house, said that the boiler wasn't on their Service list, that it could be a number of things that are wrong (PCB Board, electrode or the leads that connect the two) and that it would take two weeks to get the relevant parts meaning British Gas couldn't touch it and wouldn't be able to offer me a maintenence contract after all.he then left. I called a local guy but he told me I actually needed a new gas valve.that he would make some calls to try and find one and get back to me that day but never did.after chasing him 3 times over 3 days with no response I gave up.Managed to find a PCB Board myself from a great local company but because they're so highly recommended they're very busy and can't actually fit it for 3 weeks!!!! Like everyone in this situation I'm having a nightmare trying to sort this out and am hoping I can call someone up, tell them the problem, give them the part and all will be well(hopefully).Also, did this fix the problem. I have the same boiler and it comes up with the same error (code 60?). A local plumber tried what he said was a 'new' board, though it looked pretty tatty in the box it came in, but I still had the intermittent fault. He then changed a pressure valve and eased me of ?160 - however I still have the intermittent fault. I can buy a new board but am not convinced it will fix the problem, but as my plumber didn't really have a clue I can't see the point in getting him back. I reckon I can change the board for the cost of a plumber coming back to not fix the problem. ML And guess what?
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The damn thing has packed in again only this time I can get hot water but no heating so the valve has stuck the opposite way this time, So looks like to try and locate another valve and spend another hour or so on my back replacing it.So if anyone is having a problem try both hot water and heating separately and if the flames go out on either one it stands a good chance it is the valve which is on the left behind the drop down plastic panel you will see a censor on the front with 2 purple wires coming from it. The main control for the valve is at the back where there is a plug with 6 or 8 wires on it, but good luck coz it's a pig to swap out. Any help appreciated. Any help appreciated. Both faults are common. Have you tried power cycling to see if the boiler will reset? I downloaded an installation and user manual some months ago but can't see how to adjust the 'bath tap flow rate'. I have worked out that is probably why the water temp.If I run the cold tap in the kitchen (or anywhere else for that matter) the bath tap water temp.Thanks for any help. If so, you can reclaim the tax on it We're a journalistic website and aim to provide the best MoneySaving guides, tips, tools and techniques, but can't guarantee to be perfect, so do note you use the information at your own risk and we can't accept liability if things go wrong. Its stance of putting consumers first is protected and enshrined in the legally-binding MSE Editorial Code. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. User-Friendly Manuals. Product Instructions.
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