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It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I've got one that the film advances forever, but the shutter never cocks. Even if the manual doesn't cover this specific problem, I like to look at the 'disassembly highlights' before opening up a camera for the first time. One of these days I'm going to buy one of every manual listed on eBay and post them all online, but today is not the day. Thanks, guys!Is this correct? You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I tried to checked for its functionality and work just fine, but I saw strange object in the viewfinder. It's like drop off a piece of metal-plate. I tried to find a service shop how can repair here but come out w no result. So, the only way is DIY, but how to open the top plate. Many thanks for the advice.If so everything will be off through the viewfinder (focus). So even if you can take it apart without damaging the camera and get it back together, you probably will not get correct focus unless you can clearly get everything lined up correctly. You should send it in here for a full CLA He has done great work for many forum members.I would like to open the TopPlate but not sure how to open it, which.I would like to open the TopPlate but not sure how to open it.Many thanksCirclip pliers (used to remove the tiny 'C' shaft clips). What? If so then these are what you are looking for and you should be able to find them in any decent electrical or hardware store locally. I also found your recommended tools but which one to be used. Its looks so tricky and still can not found the service manual on internet RTogogAre you in the USA?That is why I have difficulty to find this information.That is why I have difficulty to find this information. Yes, this model is not famous and live in short time, but I like very much about this camera. It is so small, light, AP for its exposure control and can get cheap on second hand market.
http://ethio3f.com/ehpea/userfiles/epson-tmt88iv-manual.xml
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I got the top off and removed the part that holds the eyepiece (called the cell frame in the ME Supra Service Manual - could not find a MG Service Manual but same family so close enough for government work right?) and out came the eyepiece and the the offending part (referred to in the service manual as part number N-7 Eyepiece protector. It does not look as if it had any type of epoxy on it and nothing seems broken. Does anyone know how this is supposed to be kept in place. I don't see any specific info in the service manual. Also, the eyepiece lens is loose in the cell frame (moves back and forth when assembled). Any ideas, suggestions, etc would be greatly appreciated! Hopefully we can unite and help each. See more Edit: Alive Again ! I just recently got my hands on an Olympus 35 SP. Everything was wo. I recently got a Voigtlander Vito II. All seems to work fine but. I've been putting this one off for a while, in the main the iris blades. Unfortunately there's something wrong with it. I can advance the film two or three frames in the Auto setting before the shutter decides that it is time to cock itself. In x100 or Bulb it will advance about a dozen frames. I'm not really sure where to start looking. Any pointers would be appreciated.That's how it normally works. Not so on my MG. In the Auto setting I have to use the advance lever repeatedly for the shutter to cock. I can see the counter go three frames before the shutter is cocked. In x100 and Bulb the counter advances 12 frames before the shutter cocks. Again, I have to use the lever repeatedly. It's as if the advance lever doesn't catch the shutter to cock it.Sounds like you should take it into your local shop, if they tell you they dont have the resources to attempt the fix, then i would recommend doing it yourself. If all fails look into getting another, and keeping this camera for parts in case your next find develops problems! Good luck with your fix.
http://dpscnadia.org/userfiles/epson-tmu220b-manual.xml
Hope this Classic comes to life again!It never occured to me that the MG shares a lot of the mechanics of the rest of the M series. Duh! I have a MV1 that I never use. Maybe I can swap the cocking mechanism. While I would like for the camera to work it ultimately doesn't really matter if it does. It's a looker just sitting on the shelf. So, if I screw something up in the process it's not going to be the end of the world.If I haven't figured out the MG by then I'll take it with me. The shop I'm going to specializes in old Pentax cameras. I'm sure they can do something with it.I grew up using the ME Super. My Dad bought one when I was a teenager, and there has always been one in the house. I actually think it's a pretty darn good camera. It just needs some TLC every now and then.Its funny because in looking for some information on the camera, i stumbled onto a article about Medium Format photography, strange. Needless to say i had a Kiev 80 in the post a week later. That find had led to some of the best photo's i had ever taken. It was hard to let go of that ME when it finally broke down. I had already built a nice Nikon kit so i had no urge to have it repaired. I donated it to a local High School to have repaired and to be used by the kids in their photography class. I though it was a honorable goodbye.And just as with you, the ME Super was the camera that made me stick with photography. I used to have a really nice Nikon outfit, but sold it before I moved to the UK. I even sold my ETRSi, something I terribly regret now. But, not having anything in terms of camera gear made me go back to using Pentax. I'm happy with what I got. It just needs some TLC. A little more info on the MG. I took the bottom plate off earlier to see if I can't figure out what's going on. I can see the cocking lever move, but I can't see where it is supposed to catch, too much stuff in the way. I can hear it slip though.
Whatever edge is supposed to catch the cocking mechanism seems to be worn off. Gotta take the whole thing apart. No other way to get to it.I'll have a look, but I'm pretty sure already that it is going to be beyond my capabilities.I have the very same problem with my MGBy using this site, you agree to the use of cookies by Flickr and our partners as described in our cookie policy. Click here Search this Thread 08-14-2014, 09:14 PMI ordered the foam inserts from Micro Tools, and they are on the way. Now, however, as I am cleaning the rest of the camera I have a different problem that I can't find any information on. I didn't remove any screws, pins, clips, etc. After doing many K1000 rebuilds over the past few years, very seldom does a release button have to be disassembled even when removing the entire top plate. But this little booger is more than just aesthetically different from a K series. What secures this component to the rest of the release. There seems to be no Service Manual on the MG anywhere on the interweb. I can't believe how clean this thing is, and it is clear that he feels confident exposing film with This Camera in his hands. That's awesome to me, after 35 years we have something to share. Replacing this camera is out of the question, so please don't suggest that as a solution. Thanks! 08-14-2014, 11:40 PMThis page and its subpages detail, with pictures, a shutter repair. It might have what you are looking for. (is the circlip missing ?) Pentax MG repair 1 08-16-2014, 06:56 AMActually, over the past couple of days I have been directed to that page a few dozen times. With the image that shows the five components of the release button assembly, I do have all of the pictured components but there was still some question about the depth of the bronze piece. The one on the camera I am working on almost appears as though it has broken off of the piece that it rests upon.
The puzzle for me was that the depth of the funnel shaped core of the the bottom of the bronze element is not deep enough or positioned such that the circlip could hold it in place. Most of the info out there in webland seems to be text based, and almost infallibly transitions to the MX or ME as a reference point. Albeit relevant to point out that the MX and ME are of the same family and time period in regard to most of the hardware and functional bits, the external components of the actual release button layout of the MG is not the same as the others. After fiddling and thinking practically, I think I have solved the problem. As for now, I have moved on to light sealing and shining her up. Thanks, again.Javaslinger Pentax DSLR Discussion 8 05-25-2011 11:27 PM Any MG Users Out There.Have you considered joining the community. HD Pentax-FA Limited Lens Giveaway has started. Be sure to claim your daily raffle entry.I spent yesterday going over the camera and making sure everything seemed to be working properly, then loaded a roll of film in to take some test shots. I got about 10 exposures in and everything was working great, then I put the camera in my bag to go and have dinner. When I took it back out later I suddenly noticed an obstruction when looking through the viewfinder. Eventually this thing seemed to come lose completely, and it's not moving around directly in front of the viewing glass of the eyepiece. Addittionally, when I apply light pressure of the viewfinder window itself, it wiggles slightly, like it's not secured. Other than the loose glass and this piece moving around partially blocking the view, the viewfinder itself seems to be functioning normally. Any information would be appreciated! ---------- Post added 04-28-17 at 08:53 AM ---------- Originally posted by Benbrackett Good morning. I recently acquired a Pentax MG from a relative that seems to have been kept in relatively good condition.
I spent yesterday going over the camera and making sure everything seemed to be working properly, then loaded a roll of film in to take some test shots. Any information would be appreciated. For some reason it doesn't seem like the picture is showing up in the post, link here: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet 04-28-2017, 11:13 AMThe Pentax MG is plentiful on ebay. You can buy another for a fraction of the cost of repair.I have one with the same problem. Camera seems to work fine other than this. Since I have plenty of other Pentax cameras to use, I put my back on the shelf about two years ago and there it sets. Know this isn't much help, but this seems to be a problem that doesn't show up very often??Gooshin Pentax DSLR Discussion 58 10-21-2008 01:50 PM Style Selector Have you considered joining the community. Be sure to claim your daily raffle entry.Hi, today having nothing to do I disassembled my broken ME Super. Obviously I didn't repair it, but I would like somebody to explain me, based on my pictures, what is wrong with it. It has two very common problems for this type of camera: the film winds but the shutter does not cock, and the frame counter stopped working at 8. Another attempt of repairing it had already been made by an incompetent repairman, so I don't know exactly how things should look inside of it. Sorry for the shaken picture, I will try to post more tomorrow when there will be better light. Basically there is a loose spring that I think shouldn't be like that, but I can't see where it should go. Thanks a lot. 08-20-2011, 04:55 PMFirst off. do you have a repair manual? If not yet. Common to the ME super would be foam decay in and around the mirror box. One critical area near the auto-aperture lifter is an arm that sticks out to reset the cock mechanism. Gummed up, it will not extend to sort of confirm the cocking cycle is complete. Another area might be below near the power winder socket. A plate in part of the reset for the advance.
A metal tab is know to shear off from abuse and without it, the winder will never complete a advance cycle. The counter should be check to see if it is seated properly. The spring that keeps the tension on a ratchet may be in a wrong place or missing.I should have mentioned: the film winds but the shutter does not ALWAYS cock, now I think I have also positioned something wrong, because it won't wind at all. Maybe if it works to you, you could share the contents with me. Thanks.Do try a google for the ME super service manual.Try to search it first and if not, I'll work out another method later. If you are not in the correct position in the advance cycle and insert the mirror set wrong.The cocking of the shutter will need to be done correctly first. As it sounds like one of the arms is behind the other.I've repaired MG and MV and an old ME with similar issues. I actually have a ME super coming in the mail to repair so I might do the work along side you and trade notes. Additionally, there may be 2 small springs directly under the up and down shutter speed buttoms that you don't want to lose.However, lots of info online about this popular cam.Need to separate the mirror cage from the chassis.Don't continue if you are not sure what you are doing. It's a rather simple repair. OctavI'll try to list and document as I go. UPDATE: So. this camera has the following symptoms that I've found so far. Advance is not stopping, it just keeps going for quite a few cranks and then it might stop and I can fire the shutter in 125X Shutter does not complete cycle. It will fire off curtain 1 and curtain 2 will run 97 of the way and stop, requires a finger on one of the leaf arms to coax it down all the way. Diagnosis? Foam gumming up the portion near the part that lifts up the auto-aperture lever or next to the timer lever. Below are the first crumbs removed from next to the mirror box just under the location of the selector buttons. I use a modified jewelry priers to open it.
I have a spanner tool that is too big for this one. Screw located the side of PENTAX - easy enough. That is it for that side.Clockwise to remove. Try adding friction with finger cot or gripping with thin rubber pad. Slotted Nut Lever Retainer - Also tricky. Clockwise to remove. A tiny spanner or prior mentioned DIY tool. Lever - lift up and out Spring - note direction and lift up and out Screw Upper Deck - easy enough. Screw located to the side of the PENTAX - easy enough.Note the stain where it was stuck.Hey, can you please post another picture from the same angle as mine. I'd like to see where that loose spring has to go. Thanks. (Oh, and maybe show us how to repair the winding problem, I think it may be related to the black wind lock which is under the bottom cover.)Sure. coming up. Next up is the Mirror Box and to try and pry off with fewest wires to de-solder. I'm a little tired so I'll see how far I get.OK. I'm starting to fade in concentration. I will review procedures and take notes for the next steps. 8:15p.m. I may need to continue on a different site. Don't want to upset someone with all these pics. Still have to release the face plate. Here is where I am right now and I still have another broken ME Super coming in a few days.Have you considered joining the community. Be sure to claim your daily raffle entry.Ok, so I'm quite young and have never really known anything about film photography. I bought a secondhand lens today on an online auction site (Pentax-A 50mm 1:1.7) and got an old SLR film camera thrown in with the deal, the Pentax MG. As far as I can tell it looks to be in a good condition, I just don't have any idea how it works. I'm about to spend a year on an sub-antarctic island away from all civilisation and bought the K-x recently to capture the beauty of the place. Of course being away from everything means being away from printing labs too. However, there is a dark room at the base. So, I'd like to know: Is the camera any good.
How steep is the learning curve for using a film camera like that for someone who's never used one before. How difficult is it to develop your own pictures. Thanks 02-21-2010, 04:45 PMNice lens and a decent camera. Here's a link to the details about the MG, although you may still be benighted by technical information. Try downloading and printing a copy of the manual from Pentax-Manuals.com - its free and a very high quality scan. Av is the only function on the MG - there is no manual mode. That should make the learning process fairly easy. Although you may not want to spend the money, may I suggest you consider having the camera inspected and brought to original spec.'s by this Forum's favorite Pentax technician, Eric Hendrickson. The link sends you to his website, where he describes his business and service - quite excellent and inexpensive for what he does, and no risk to you. Read the estimating information in the right frame.The link sends you to his website, where he describes his business and service - quite excellent and inexpensive for what he does, and no risk to you. Read the estimating information in the right frame. This may not be possible for kari. He seems to reside in South Africa. Maybe he has a friend here that he could send the camera to. But you are right, Eric is the best.He seems to reside in South Africa. But you are right, Eric is the best. Oops - my bad. Not really ethnocentric, but certainly a continent-o-centric error of a global Forum. 02-21-2010, 06:02 PMNot really ethnocentric, but certainly a continent-o-centric error of a global Forum. But at least he can download the MG manual. One out of two ain't bad. Babe Ruth never hit.500. 02-21-2010, 11:26 PMThanks a lot, guys. I'll definitely grab a hold of the manual for that camera. I'm a 'she', by the way.;-)The free on-line manuals is sure a nice touch I had the MZ-6's downloaded the day before I bought the camera, even knowing that I'd get the manual with it.
I'll definitely grab a hold of the manual for that camera. I'm a 'she', by the way.;-) OK - so no more assumptive behavior by monochrome FWIW, you'll enjoy the camera, especially the viewfinder! 02-22-2010, 10:40 AMWhen I look back at my first several years of developing my BW film, they suck to what I do today. In other words, optium results take some practice. But if you expose well and follow the development recommendations, you'll get good results. Are you going to be in snow. Remember, your camera's center-weighted metering will place a really white snow scenes to a mid tone. You'll need to open the lens up several more stops depending on how white a scene is. Since the camera is new to you, I'd bracket all the shots you think are keepers.It'll be quick for you to learn on too. The one thing (about all these Pentax manual film bodies) that I am not a fan of, is the method for loading the film. It takes some patience to correctly load the darn thing, whereas my auto-everything cameras make film loading a non-issue.If you shoot slide film, you're likely to find a camera without manual exposure capability to be mighty aggravating.Nice rugged camera AE is generally spot on check my comments on the other threadBringing enough film, batteries, chemicals, paper for a year will be a shlep, and quite an outlay in financial terms, too. OK, it had to be said. Give your MG a good workout before you leave. I only ever put one roll of film through mine. It came back underexposed, for which I blame the ASA dial. It's plastic and doesn't feel anywhere near as robust as the metal one on the ME. However, if yours is good and exposes correctly, I agree that it should do well. As has been said, you'll need to adjust exposure for snow scenes, and on the MG that can only be done with the ASA setting. Nothing wrong with that except you'll need to remember to set it back when not needed. Unlike cameras with a dedicated ASA override, there is no reminder in the viewfinder.
The MG uses the same frame as the more manual ME and ME Super. My fiancee has one that I gave her for christmas. It has a self-timer and is Aperture-priority AE only. THe Aperture priority is one by twisting the aperture ring, so don't expect your DA or FAJ series lenses to work on it. No Exposure Compensation either, but you can change that by lying to it about what ISO film is loaded The MG is very light and from what I can tell, not a bad entry level Pentax film SLR at all.Have you considered joining the community. It contains circuit diagrams ( schemas ) etc. We have proficiency in offering quality services in order to provide our customers most satisfactory and value-added services help them to meet their requirements. It also usually contains parts catalog. After placing order we'll send You download instructions on Your email. See below for delivery information. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.The Pentex MG replaced the Pentax MV and MV1 cameras as an entry level 35mm semi-automatic camera.The shutter curtains were metal and had a vertical movement. The Pentax MG can use any Pentax K-mount and can still be used with current Pentax lenses. There was a self-timer and a hot shoe with an additional contact for dedicated Pentax flash units. The Pentax MG used 2 SR-44 batteries or equivalent to power it.The finder screen was fixed, with a split image and a microprism ring in the center. However, the aperture was not displayed.The Pentax MG could use the Dial Data ME databack with an adaptor to slide in the hot shoe, or it could make direct use of the Digital Data M databack. The Pentax MG was available in chrome or black finish.By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Saying no will not stop you from seeing Etsy ads or impact Etsy's own personalization technologies, but it may make the ads you see less relevant or more repetitive.
Please update to the latest version. Working Film Camera.Useful bit of kit to add to your set up. Would make for a great gift.Vintage MG shirt, Classic car shirt.Please Log in to subscribe.Register to confirm your address.