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Please try again.Please try again.Please try again. Then you can start reading Kindle books on your smartphone, tablet, or computer - no Kindle device required. Register a free business account Full content visible, double tap to read brief content. Videos Help others learn more about this product by uploading a video. Upload video To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Here’s all the intel you need from a local climbing guide who calls Eldo his backyard. Eldorado Canyon State Park is one of the best traditional free climbing areas in the world. Having survived the eras of piton smashing and mad bolt drilling, Eldo is truly a place of adventure where a comprehensive skill-set is demanded to negotiate often tricky descents, acrobatic sequences and sustained movement. Placing gear (protection) at will is not a given by any means, and inspecting pitons, fixed cams or passive gear before clipping your rope to it is a must. For those that can handle themselves on the rocks, it’s a climbing playground that you’ll never tire of. There’s also plenty of beginner routes to sharpen your skills and build confidence on. As a Colorado local and a guide with more than 15 years of experience under my belt, here are a few of my favourite climbing routes in Eldo, along with some insider info to help make the most of your time there. As one of the best locations for Front Range climbing, it’s been a crowd favourite since the 60s, with routes that can and will push your limits. The routes are mostly trad and the grades are old school, even the 5.6 routes feel more like 5.7 or 5.8, so things can be a little more challenging than you might anticipate. That said, it has some of the best routes in the entire country.
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Eldorado has an amazing climbing community, a great diversity of climbs, with a handful of awesome six to seven-pitch routes, tons of wildlife, beautiful views (both ground and summit), and great spectator friendly zones. Eldo climbing history is woven with legends such as Derek Hersey, Jim Erickson, Layton Kor and Pat Ament, to name a few. The rock quality is bulletproof-like, a lot more akin to granite than the sandstone that’s typical in Indian Creek, Moab, and other desert towers. Even though the rock type is solid, there’s still some loose rock you need to be aware of on certain routes. The place is known for having cryptic sequences and climbing moves, and challenging gear placements, so you need to get creative in many of the cruxes. With solid rock across the board and short approaches to boot, what’s not to love about coming to Eldo. KT topping out on Rewritten (5.7). Swanson’s Arete and the knife-edge ridge of Tower One as seen in the background. Photo by Jesse Ramos What ties me to Eldorado Originally from Boulder, I grew up almost walking distance from Eldorado Canyon. My step-dad was a climber back in the 70s, but it wasn’t until I returned to Colorado after a decade of climbing and guiding in the PNW, along with a stint in China and Tibet, that I experienced climbing in Eldorado for myself. Currently based out of Denver, I typically guide in the Front Range area of Colorado. Eldorado Canyon State Park, The Flatirons, Boulder Canyon, and Clear Creek Canyon are where I’ll typically find myself depending on the season. In the winter months, I guide ice climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Vail and Clear Creek Canyon. When should you visit. Eldorado never fails. It’s a great climbing destination year-round. There’s excellent conditions from spring, through summer and into fall, but I climb and guide a handful of days in the dead of winter as well. It’s not uncommon to get some spectacular winter rock climbing days in Eldo.
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Keep in mind, the top-spots get pretty crowded, especially in the warmer months, so in the dead of summer be prepared to wait your turn on one of the popular classics. Carpooling is encouraged when possible as the park is seeing substantial growth; it can reach capacity before noon on a weekend. Ideally, I always want to take people up the Bastille, but it’s a 5.7 route that’s not easy to tackle, so I always advise that even experienced climbers test their skills on the Wind Ridge, a milder route rated 5.6. Rewritten, a 6-pitch 5.7, is another Eldo classic, as is Swanson Arete, 5-pitch 5.5. For total beginners, I recommend starting out on The Bomb — a 5.4 of two pitches — before working your way up to other ultra classics in the area. Ready to have your confidence shaken. The Yellow Spur and Blind Faith will do just that. While there’s over 500 routes to climb, these are just a few I return to again and again with new clients. Here’s a few more details to get you hyped: Get started on The Wind Ridge The Wind Ridge is one of my go-to spots because it’s a good taste of what Eldorado Canyon is all about. There’s some loose rock as you work your way higher up, and the third pitch will challenge you with one of the biggest hanging flakes in Eldorado — a definite highlight of route. Then it’s capped off with a traverse along a walkway and a scramble back to the base. Patrick on the third pitch of Ruper (5.8) after linking Slimy Spoon (5.9). Photo by Jesse Ramos Bastille Crack — one of America’s great classics If you can do well for yourself on the Wind Ridge, Bastille Crack is your next stop. Bastille is probably one of the most classic climbs in the world. The exposure, the traversing, the summit, I just love everything about this route. Not only is it an amazing climb, it has a great history. It was first ascended in the mid-50s by WWII soldiers who had returned home. To think they climbed it in their army boots is just incredible.
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In the late 50s, when it was first free climbed, it was considered the hardest free climb in America. It’s a short approach — only about 15 steps up the road from where the car is parked. You need to be a solid crack climber before leading this climb. If the first pitch proves too much, there’s an opportunity to bail. But after that, you’re committed to getting to the top. If you’re up for fun, tricky moves throughout, with lots of different options to summit, the Bastille is not to be missed. The Bomb and the Whale’s Tail — the best beginner routes The Bomb is a two-pitch 5.4. It’s a great route for a first multi-pitch climb that’s a little steeper than Whale’s Tail. It’s got really huge holds, but you don’t even have to use them. This is a great route for beginners to flirt with different techniques; you can climb it like a crack and if you’re not ready for that, you can face climb it and work on building your skills. It has a chimney that’s good for learning on, nice belay ledges, great bolted anchors, and the rappel down is manageable for beginners. It’s a fun route with good protection and a great spot to gain confidence before heading on to more challenging routes. Whale’s Tail, a 5.2, is three pitches long at a very low angle. It’s like a mini Flatiron; you’ll practically be hiking. It’s a spot I take climbers who are new to the sport or who spend most of their time in climbing gyms because it’s a great introduction to climbing outside. It’s a great crack to learn how to place gear and there’s enough variation to keep it fun. For kids, this is a great route to learn the ropes on. It’s a proper old-school sandbag with really stiff, sustained pitches. Every pitch is challenging, and there aren’t a ton of good rests. It’s a direct line and pretty straightforward finishing on the summit of the first tower. You also have to do a couple crux moves in a row which take some skill.
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It’s really well-protected on bolts with great liebacks and stems, and you can link pitches to do it more quickly, too. This is one of those climbs where hiring a guide is a good idea. I’ve taken climbers up Yellow Spur that were competent leaders at the 5.9 grade, but found themselves struggling on this route. The opening pitch is challenging, and I’ve seen people bite off more than they can chew on multiple occasions here. Blind Faith — not for the faint of heart Blind Faith is a two-pitch, 5.10 on the West Face of the Bastille. It’s a beautiful crack, but also one of the Eldorado climbs that sees a lot of accidents so you need to be experienced for this route. Problems come up on the first pitch: it’s runout and there’s a lot of rope drag issues. Visual communication is tricky, the ropes zig-zag, and the belays are demanding, so that usually shuts a lot of people down. However, with the right experience, this is a great alternative to Yellow Spur. There’s a lot of places that make it seem like the belay is supposed to go there, and there’s these nice cracks, then you knock on the rock and just know the quality isn’t good. You really need to be pretty aware of where you’re setting up your belays, and where you’re placing gear on the traverse. It’s pretty much crux-galore. You’re depending on seven or eight pitons and you’re not even really using your own gear. There’s simply nowhere to put it and you’re really trusting these old pitons from decades ago. The descent is also testing if you don’t know the area. All in all though, this is one of my favorite Eldo routes if you can handle it — a beautiful view and the exposure on it is really fantastic. Nikki and KT on the last, smile inducing pitch of Rewritten (5.7). Photo by Jesse Ramos My Advice for Visiting Eldorado There’s a few things you should keep in mind when planning a visit to Eldorado Canyon.
Here are some of my tips, including a few hazards to be aware of, climbing route closures, weather conditions and what to bring with you, along with some local intel on where to get gear and grab a beer. The 10 essentials you need to bring with you In my many years of climbing, I’ve learned being prepared can save the day (and lives!). Climbing parties are notorious for getting lost on tricky descents and spotty cell phone service does nothing to help in these situations. What starts out as a bright and sunny day can quickly turn once you’re up on top. High winds are pretty common, and electrical storms can be very extreme and dangerous in this area, so always check the forecast to avoid getting caught in a gnarly situation. Camping isn’t permitted within the park, and the nearest campground is around an hour away. However, you’ll have no issues with finding accommodations in Boulder; there’s Airbnbs a plenty. Leave no trace To protect the habitat in Eldorado, we strictly respect the Leave No Trace principles. Whatever you pack in, pack out. That includes your poop. There are a few wag bag stations within the park on certain trails, but climbers are encouraged to bring their own for when nature calls. AMGA Rock Guide Jesse Ramos on the crux pitch of Rewritten (5.7). Photo by AMGA Rock Guide Thomas Gilmore Be mindful of the wildlife Eldorado Canyon is a home to numerous bird species, mountain lions, black bears, golden eagles and rattlesnakes (be on the lookout!). Every year, the park closes certain crags to protect nesting raptors like gold eagles, so pay close attention to which crags are off-limits. There is also some unfriendly flora — poison ivy, specifically — so be on the lookout for that, too. Coming from an aquifer located 8,000 feet under the earth, it’s fed by rain and snowmelt on the east side of the Continental Divide. Near the entrance of the canyon, you can fill your bottles for fifty cents per gallon, which I highly recommend you do.
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You can also take a dip in history. Currently under renovation, there’s a swimming pool that utilizes the same artesian water to enjoy after a day of climbing. Built in 1905, it’s one the USA’s oldest swimming pools and worth competing with the summer crowds to swim in. AMGA Rock Instructor Bruce Hodgkins on the third pitch of Perversion (5.9 G). Mickey Mouse Wall. Photo by Jesse Ramos Where to get gear in Eldorado Neptune Mountaineering is the go-to spot to rent or buy rock, ice and ski gear. It has an extensive guidebook selection and a coffee shop. Play it Again Sports, located a few doors down from Neptune, also offers used gear. One small note on gear: Be sure to pack small cams and micro nuts as you’ll definitely need it in Eldo. A few of my favorite local watering holes After a day on the rocks, I love taking my clients to one of my favorite local spots. Thanks to the proximity to Boulder, there’s a lot to choose from. Some of my go-to places are Snarf’s Sandwiches, The Southern Sun Brewery and Moe’s Bagel, all near Neptune Mountaineering. Downtown, you’ll find Mustard’s Last Stand, which serves up Chicago-style hot dogs, and there’s also Jax, a great seafood place. Blackbelly has quite possibly the best breakfast burritos you’ll ever have (and I don’t even like burritos). If you’re looking for a healthier option, try Flower Child or Know Thai. Share About the author Jesse Ramos AMGA Rock Guide and Colorado local Jesse is an AMGA Certified Rock Guide with more than 15 years of experience. His passion for alpine climbing has taken him all over the world. He started his career in the wilds of the Pacific Northwest, followed by a stint in China and Tibet, and has now landed back in his home state of Colorado. Education is a passion of Jesse’s, and he’s taught a handful of climbing courses, including crevasse rescue. Have questions? Talk to adventure expert.
Talk to us Inquiry Trip inquiry for Your next adventure Where would you like to go and what would you like to to. What else should we know before connecting you with the guide? (optional) Your selection Activity Snowkiting Date Sunday, January 17th Group 0 people Sorry, something went wrong. Your inquiry was successfully sent to the guides. Sorry, but your inquiry didn’t go through. The adventure stories you want in your inbox. Sign up for the 57hours newsletter and join our growing community of outdoor adventurers. Get in-depth reviews and expert advice to help you start planning your next big outdoor adventure. SUBSCRIBE Subscribe to the 57hours Newsletter. Stay up-to-date with the latest outdoor adventure stories and get exclusive offers delivered straight to your inbox. You’re subscribed! Thank you for subscribing to our newsletter. Continue exploring Never miss out. Subscribe to our newsletter to receive a discount and updates on 57hours offers, webinars, and reviews. Continue exploring Footer Newsletter signup Join thousands of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter. Groups Discussions Quotes Ask the Author To see what your friends thought of this book,This book is not yet featured on Listopia.There are no discussion topics on this book yet. In this 2020 edition, the book has been radically improved with a major overhaul of the book to make the layout easier to use, new maps, 80 new routes, and a renumbering and reformatting that aligns most routes with the photos. All new action photos create a must-have tome for the Eldo climber. When purchased from Sharp End, it a free 2-year subscription to the Digital Edition. Rich content from routes to history, well laid out. I used to only use Mtn Project, and getting this guide was a huuuge upgrade. Fun bits of history. Glad to have it finally.
Life Outside About Freelance Services Clips and Partners Adventure Photography Blog Skills Outdoor Women Camping, RV, and Vanlife Mountaineering Hiking and Backpacking Skills Snow Skills Rock Climbing Skills Freelance Writing, Travel, and Life Skills Destinations International US Destinations Colorado Gear Stories Contact Free Stuff. Free Backpacking Packing List Free Hiking Planner and Checklist Free Desert Road Trip Packing List Free Guide to Photos on the Fly The Insider’s Guide to Eldorado Canyon Climbing June 21, 2020 By foxintheforest 8 shares Share Tweet Pin Situated just minutes from Boulder, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon is a climbing Mecca. Multi-pitch trad climbing enthusiasts flock from across the globe to enjoy the best Eldorado Canyon Climbing. Soaring routes with fantastic positioning have earned classic status. In fact, some of the best climbing in Colorado can be found in this sandbagged, adventure-filled canyon. There are all sorts of climbing in Eldorado Canyon, but it takes a special kind of climber to navigate these fortified buttresses. As an avid Colorado climber, I’ve had the opportunity to swing leads on some of the most classic climbs in Eldorado Canyon. About this Guide to Climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park As an experienced rock climber and local Coloradan of over 11 years, I’m so stoked to give you the inside scoop about climbing in Eldorado Canyon. Let’s jump on the sharp end and dive into it. Here’s what you’ll find in this guide to Eldorado Canyon climbing: Practical info about visiting Eldorado Canyon including prices, crowds, parking, and more. Types of climbs in Eldorado Canyon Eldorado Canyon climbing grades explained The best climbs in Eldorado Canyon Practical Information About Eldorado Canyon Climbing Before you hit the crag, there are a few key things to know about visiting Eldorado Canyon. Alternatively, you can use a Colorado State Parks Annual Pass to enter the park.
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There is a kiosk (in-person and digital) where you can purchase your pass. The road into the park has strict no-parking rules and can be a little rough. Most vehicles should be able to navigate the potholes, but it’s unpaved and can be muddy after rains. Local Tip: Eldorado Canyon gets crowded on weekends with climbers and hikers alike so get there early and plan accordingly. When is the Best Time to Climb in Eldorado Canyon. Hands down the best time to climb in Eldorado Canyon is from April through October. Summers are warm but typically crowded. Some of the classics (like the Bastille) are great routes for swealtery July and August days thanks to the shade. Temperatures are typically warmer, but remember that Colorado has a monsoon season that sets in from mid June through early August. It isn’t uncommon to see an afternoon thunderstorm in Eldorado Canyon and the last thing you want is to be waving around a set of nuts in a lightening storm. Do your homework and check the weather before heading out. You can (and I have) climbed in Eldorado Canyon year round. However, during the winter months, expect cold, sometimes wet, and snowy conditions. However, with a variety of routes you’re sure to find a sunny face on a warmer winter’s day. Either way, if you want to hop on a classic, be sure to get there early (especially during the busy season). Early November conditions on Yellow Spur, a real classic Eldorado Canyon climb. What Style of Climbing is in Eldorado Canyon State Park. You can find bouldering, sport climbing (clipping bolts), and trad climbing (placing protective gear) in Eldorado Canyon. Overall, Eldorado Canyon climbing is most known for multi-pitch routes, or routes that require you to climb multiple rope lengths. Although there is sport climbing and bouldering, there are fare better climbing areas in Colorado for both of these activities. The area is nearly 73 trad climbing, or climbing that requires you to place your own gear.
There are various styles of trad climbs throughout eldorado Canyon. Most of the climbing is multi-pitch and bolted anchors vary. You also may have to rappel or scramble a walk-off route. Get Your Free Colorado Packing List. Travel like a local, not a tourist! (Psst, perfect if you've just moved to CO too!) Get organized with local advice on what to pack for your awesome Colorado adventure. This packing list includes separate checklists for camping, hiking, backpacking, winter travel, and trip details. Fill out your email below to get exclusive access to the ultimate Colorado packing list. Plus get bonus local travel tips, gear deals, and more to your inbox once a month. Email Name Hold on, I'm thinking. Awesome! Now you're ready to travel like a local, not a tourist. Check your inbox for instructions on your FREE Colorado packing list. While you're waiting why not follow me on socials. I love hearing from my community about all the badass adventures. Find me on Facebook and Instagram. Hire a Guide for Eldorado Canyon The best way to explore the best of Eldorado Canyon climbing if you’re new to the sport is to hire a guide. Although I’m a seasoned climber and mounatianeer, I always make time for a guided experience. For those new to climbing, guides offer a chance to experience the sport in a safer way. While seasoned climbers can hone their skills and go on more intrepid adventures with a guide. Whenever I recommend a rock climbing guide in Colorado, I always point people towards the Mountain Guides Colorado. I’ve worked with Mountain Guides Colorado (a division of the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides) for years. They offer exceptional service, employ amazing and well-knowledged guides, and give a fair price. Enquire today about climbing in Eldorado Canyon. What is the Rock in Eldorado Canyon. The conngolomorate sandstone takes a little getting used to. It isn’t uncommon to find patches of choss, even on the most famous routes.
Rockfall is super common throughout Eldorado Canyon and although there are a lot of quality routes to choose from, it’s also an adventurous place to climb. Walk-offs are confusing, route lines aren’t always obvious, and climbing conditions can get an alpine feel at times. But if you pay attention, and spend some time exploring a few tried-and-true climbs, you’ll start to fall in love with climbing in Eldo. Is Eldorado Canyon Sandbagged. I like to explain Eldorado Climbing like this. You’ll get excited about the prospect of a route, jump on the sharp end, get humbled, and walk off swearing you’ll never climb that route again. Flash forward a few weeks and you’ll find yourself wanting to get back on lead. A lot of the routes in the area were set in the 1960’s by a very tall many named Layton Kor. He spearheaded development in the area and his climbs are known to be tricky and reachy for us mere mortals. As a result, the area is fairly sandbagged. Not quite in a Gunks kind of way, but in its own, uneasy choss and suspect pro kind of way. I wouldn’t recommend coming to Eldorado Canyon to lead unless you’ve had some trad climbing experience under your belt. There are a few easy routes on the Wind Tower and the Whales Tale, but for the most part, even the easier routes tend to ask for an experienced skill set. If you’re new, go with someone more experienced and follow. You’ll get a good feel for the area and learn how to judge routes in the area. The Best Beginner Climbs in Eldorado Canyon If you have some experience under your belt and you’re looking to break into Eldorado Canyon climbs, there are a few fun areas to warm you up. These might not be the most exciting climbs in the world, but they will give you a flavor of the better side of Eldorado Canyon climbing and are true to the grade. The Wind Tower offers up an excellent array of easy beginner climbs. Classics like Calypso (5.6) are polished and fairly run out, making them stiff for the grade. However, the Bomb (5.
4) or Recon (5.6) link-up to the W est Overhang (juggy 5.7 roof) is generally on solid rock. Breezy (5.6) is a great intro to Eldorado since you’ll have a forgettable bottom pitch with a fun finale. For those looking to up their game just a touch, the Wind Ridge (5.7) offers a few breathtaking, yet awkward pitches to break into more moderate climbs. If you’re into runout, then Icarus (5.6 R) will take your breath away, especially the virtually un-protectable, airy arete finish. Fantastic positioning, fun and engaging climbing with sustained movement. You can’t mention Eldorado Canyon climbing without talking about the famous Bastille Crack (5.7, 5 pitches). Located on the Bastille, this climb literally starts up a beautiful hand crack right along the road. Handcrakekr Direct takes the cake for the best 5.10a with a beautiful hand crack that will get your heart pumping. Notable Difficult Climbs in Eldo Alright, so I may be a highly experienced climber, but I typically don’t climb at tougher grades. After getting into a freak trad accident, I decided that keeping my climbs in the moderate range is all I need to stay satisfied. However, that doesn’t mean there isn’t an array of challenging climbs in Eldorado Canyon to enjoy. Boulder Canyon and the Flatirons offer up more classic Colorado climbs to enjoy. Alternatively, you can opt to hit the road and enjoy one of the most scenic drives in Colorado along the Peak to Peak highway into Estes Park. Nearby Rocky Mountain National Park has lots to do too. Where to Eat Post Send The only unfortunate part about climbing in Eldorado Canyon is that you’re not that close to good eats. Drive into nearby Boulder for an array of awesome eateries including places like The Mountain Sun, Avery Brewing, or Snarfs Sandwiches. Places to Camp Near Eldorado Canyon Eldorado Canyon and Boulder, in general, don’t offer up a lot of places to camp. However, if you’re willing to drive, there are a lot of options for free camping near Denver.
Your best bet is to station yourself somewhere in the foothills and scoot out to the canyon in the morning. Pro Tip: There is no overnight parking in Eldorado Canyon State Park, so be sure to find a different place to sleep. Overall Eldorado Canyon climbing is a rewarding and fun experience. Be prepared for anything and do your homework before jumping on the sharp end and you’ll find yourself with a smile on your face overlooking boulder from the top of the canyon. Additional Rock Climbing Resources Kick-Ass Climbing Gyms Near Denver Climbing Pants You’ll Actually Want to Wear Amazing Climbing Gear for Beginners How to Start a Trad Rack (coming soon) Tips for Overcoming a Fear of Heights PIN THIS POST Primary Sidebar Let’s connect. Facebook Instagram LinkedIn Pinterest Twitter Hi There. Meg aka Fox is a 30-something who's born to explore. Her mission is to get you out on your greatest adventure. She'd rather be dirty than done up. Visit Colorado Like a Local, Not a Tourist Explore the outdoors in Colorado like a local, not a tourist. As an absolute outdoor PRO (seriously, I get paid to write about the outdoors) and Colorado local of over 12 years, you've found the best outdoor blog on the internet.;) Get the FREE Colorado trip planning checklist and get the inside scoop on hiking, camping, climbing, and more in the great Centennial State. Email Name Hold tight, I'm thinking. Footer Note: This website participates in affiliate marketing. That means if you click on some of the links and purchase something, I get a small kickback at no added cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. For more, see the Fox in the Forest Privacy Policy. All opinions are my own. Eldorado Canyon - with its red rock walls, cascading creek, and dazzling lichen, it is the crown jewel of Colorado climbing. Intricate movement and cerebral climbing draw visitors from around the world.
Adventure awaits on the multi-pitch outings and distant crags, while roadside routes greet the afterwork crowd. Few areas offer the ambiance and grand atmosphere of this magical venue. EDIT: No longer the newest or best. See Steve Levin's book. From Eldorado Canyon's multi-pitch classics to the sport climbs of Dinosaur Mountain and Boulder Canyon; from slab-happy cruises in the Flatirons to the city's famed bouldering, this guide covers it all. It has more pictures with routes indicated on them than in hie compilations, which is nice. It covers just about every area around Boulder. Confined to a narrow box canyon two miles long, RMP contains an unbelievable concentration of standard setting climbing. Long known for its overhanging enduro-fests, the canyon has seen a revitalization of route development, with the majority of the new routing taking place in the moderate grades of 5.11 and under. Rifle Mountain Park and Western Colorado Rock Climbs also details over 20 newly developed and never before published crags in Glenwood Canyon, the Frying Pan River Valley, the Crystal River Valley, and around Main Elk Creek near New Castle. With updates of the classic spots like the Fortress of Solitude and the Redstone Boulders, as well as details about the soon-to-be classic crags of the Narrows near Redstone, the Skillet above Basalt, and Lime Creek above Eagle, this guidebook is a must have for any Colorado rock addict. Rifle Mountain Park and Western Colorado Rock Climbs also showcases the region's climbing with hundreds of color photographs, including stunning action shots from pro shooters like Keith Ladzinski, Celin Serbo, and Tim Kemple, as well as the photos of BJ Sbarra.