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Realistic Effects like Ditch lights, Mars lights, strobes, and many more. If the decoder senses that the motor is not isolated, it will not run the motor. In this case, you will be able to control the loco’s functions but the motor will not work. Most modern Digitrax systems do not use hexadecimal format but it is provided here in case you need it for older systems. These are set up by programming CV values as described below. If your decoder is not a “series 3” decoder, please check the spec sheet to determine which type of functions it supports. FX 3 functions are fully remappable so they can be controlled by any function key on your system. A master light switch can be set up to turn off all lights on a locomotive. Functions associated with advanced consists can be controlled, too. Using TABLE IVa below, determine which CV you need to program to set up an FX 3 feature for the function output you are working with. For example, if you want to set up an FX feature on your forward headlight, you will use CV49 to control the FX 3 feature for the lamp attached to F0F. Some decoders do not have function output wires attached. Use thin wire or wire saved during previous decoder installations to solder function output wires to the pads associated with the function you want to use. Click here to go to FX page.The second digit determines which FX 3 effect will be generated. The first digit determines how the effect will work with respect to the locomotive direction, the head light and other functions. Use TABLE IVb to determine the second digit and Table IVc to determine the first digit of the FX 3 CV value to program into the CV selected in step 1. When F2 is on, the right ditch light flashes alternately with the left ditch light to simulate ditch light operation at a grade crossing. When F2 is on, the left ditch light flashes alternately with the right ditch light to simulate ditch light operation at a grade crossing.
http://www.priom.com.br/userfiles/bq05046-6-a-manual.xml
For example, two strobe lights can be set up to flash alternately by setting one to phase A and the other to phase B. The strobes can also be set up to be on when the loco is moving forward and off when moving backward. All FX 3 outputs can be set up with FX 3 effects. The CV value for CV62 is made up of 2 digits, the first digit and the second digit. This value should be between 0 and F. A value of 0 gives no keep alive and a value of F gives maximum keep alive. Values between the high and low allow you to vary whether the lamp actually goes off between light pulses or whether it stays on very dimly or more brightly. (If you are using LEDs, the first digit for CV62 should be 0.) This value should be between 0 and F. A value of 0 gives a fast rate and a value of F gives a slow rate of operation. We recommend you start with a 4 and adjust it up or down until you get the effect you are looking for. Remember that F2 is a momentary key on most Digitrax throttles that will keep function 2 on as long as you hold the key down and then turn function 2 off when you release the key. This allows the ditch lights to be on steady during regular operation and to begin alternate flashing when F2 (usually the horn) is activated and to continue flashing alternately for a predetermined length of time after F2 is released; just like the prototype. A value of 00 yields no hold over time, a value of 40 yields a realistic time of about 5 seconds.The first digit is determined by the following table according to how you want it to work. Be sure the decoder you are programming has FX 3 features. Digitrax introduced FX 3 in 2002 in the “series 3” decoders. Digitrax introduced FX in the summer of 1995 in all of its premium decoders so if your decoder was made before then it does not have FX capability.Review the qualifiers you set up for the effect.
http://www.branchennachweis.eu/userfiles/bq06043-1-manual.xml
For example, if the effect is set up to come on only when F1 and F0 are active and the loco is headed in the forward direction, be sure you have met those conditions. To do this set up all functions qualified to be on when F0 is on and off when F0 is off.Also, over time, the industry standards and uses of come CVs have changed. Each of our decoder web pages includes a link to a specification sheet for that particular decoder so that you will know which CVs are used for which features in that particular model. There are variations in a few part numbers. FX 3 outputs optimized for both LED and bulb applications. FX 3 outputs have configurable pulse available on all outputs. Sound decoders configured for 8 Ohm speakers. Allows for longer sound fragments. Available in either standard 3 or premium 4 voice versions. Auto CV configuration by sound projects Scaleable Speed Stabilization (BEMF) optimized for sound operation. Some Series 5 decoders have sockets for simply plugging in the Sound Bug while others require soldering to wire the Sound Bug to the decoder. Just fill out the form and return your items directly to Digitrax for repair. We'll get them fixed up and return them to you as quickly as possible. Please DO NOT return items for repair to the place of purchase. Many of the units we receive for repair do not need any repairs at all. Before you send any units for repair, please take a few minutes to review our Support Options. Search for troubleshooting guides. Please give a complete description of the issue you are having. Un-repairable items will be returned to you at no charge with no repairs made. If a defect or accidental damage occurs, return the unit directly to Digitrax for service. Please do not remove the shrink wrap protective sleeves from the Digitrax decoders. Shrink may be peeled back to expose pads for adding function wires. This includes speakers, wire, cables, battery covers, etc.
http://www.drupalitalia.org/node/76888
If a locomotive is sent to Digitrax, Digitrax will ship the entire package back, unrepaired. Which DCC system is right for you. DCC Terms Topics All about wiring Command stations Boosters Power Supplies Decoders Throttles Products Command Stations Mobile Decoders For help with terms, see the Terms List. Available in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit in almost any locomotive, Digitrax offers both traditional wired decoders as well as plug n play decoders that make installation a snap. They support all DCC standard programming methods. One-step decoder factory reset makes it easy to troubleshoot decoders. Motor isolation protection protects your investment in locos and decoders. Digitrax decoders support both two and four digit addressing and basic, advanced and universal consisting. They also have operations mode read-back capability so you can read back programming information while the decoder is on the main line. These motors are suitable for use with 1.5 amp (DH163, DH121, DH150 plug n'play decoders), or 1 amp (DN142, DN121, or DZ143) decoders. Decoder Lock equipped. Something went wrong. View cart for details. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. It is a DH123 FX3. I want FO to be a not directional headlite (white wire) and F4 to be a gyralite using the yellow wire. I don't want the lights to go all the way out so I need to set CV62 as well. I am using bulbs with resistors. Has anyone else noticed NCE (decoders I usually use)directions included with the decoder are a lot clearer?The DH123D has FX3 functions which should allow him to do what he wants to do. Programming it however, is another matter.These two are already set up to be used for the headlight at each end. You need at least four function outputs to have front and rear headlights and flashing ditch lights up front.The headlight is still directional and the gyralite is F3, not F4.
http://www.amedar.com/images/bountiful-router-manual.pdf
I don't have ditchlites or rear lite, only headlight on the cab and gyralite in the nose so a 2FX function decoder should do the trick.I'm not sure about the gyralight. I used warm white LED's with 1k ohm resistors for headlights and Mars Lights. So far, so good. I have a just arrived 4-pk of D13SR decoders on the workbench now, for the next batch, some Athearn GP38-2s and GP40-2s. These locos will be repowered with the same can motors, LED headlights, etc. I bought NCE because I was buying the NCE Power Cab, and the dealer recommended the N13SR for what I was doing, just Plain-Jane installations. Are there other basic no-sound decoders I should consider, such as the Digitrax DH123D, and why. What is the good, the bad, the ugly of various decoders? I used warm white LED's with 1k ohm resistors for headlights and Mars Lights. What is the good, the bad, the ugly of various decoders? Check out their site at: www.tcsdcc.com; I am not affiliated with the company, just a very satisfied customer. They offer all the options I look for, and are very easy to program. Check out their site at: www.tcsdcc.com; I am not affiliated with the company, just a very satisfied customer. It did not take much handling to break a few wires and have to resolder. Yes, I was careful. They broke. It was suggested to put silicone along the wires there, but instead I used Aleene's 7800, which is stiffer. That worked well. But for additional plain-Jane decoders I have purchased the D13SRJ, which has the 9 pin socket and 9-pin plug wiring harness. The wires are crimped into the plug and can flex without a problem. And it makes it easy for me to change decoders if necessary. For some new to me, older locos, a pair of Kato SD40's, I purchased the Digitrax DH165AO, which drop in in place of the plastic light board.
The reason I went with the DH165AO rather than the comparable NCE DA-SR is that the Digitrax has solder pads in the middle of the board so that I can solder an LED there, positioned where the lamps were originally, to shine into the Lucite light bars conducting light up to the headlight. I could not determine from the DA-SR manual if it had such a light location in the middle. But there is one more thing, the Digitrax has an 8-pin socket so that later I can add a Sound Bug if desired. The cost was only a dollar more than the NCE. For some Athearn Tunnel Motors, SD40T-2 and SD45T-2, I purchased the new Digitrax SDH164D Sound Decoder. It plugs right into the 9-pin wiring harness. I've had those reloaded with SD40-2 sound. It did not take much handling to break a few wires and have to resolder. I've had those reloaded with SD40-2 sound. On to my questions on the differences: With the NCE decoders I can use CV 95 reverse trim to adjust reverse to be the same as forward. Of course, CV's 2, 5, 6 are the standard. And CV's 3 and 4, momentum, can be entered manually, or I can change Momentum from the controller on the main, no problem. So, I see that in the Digitrax decoders that CV 95 is also reverse trim, same as NCE. NCE does not have a CV 66 Forward Trim. If you can trim reverse both slower and faster (relative to forward), why would you need forward trim. Setting CV 116 to a value of 2 is what they suggested to use initially, and seems to work best. I use 20 on a few locos, and on one Athearn that is new blue box and a little balky (just needs a few hours break in) I use a CV of 30. Range allowable is 0 - 50. Digitrax CV 116 is F6. No CV 117 in the Digitrax. Does Digitrax CV 65 do the same as NCE's CV 117. What are typical values. NCE and Digitrax CV's 67-94 are the same, custom speed table. Comments? Suggestions? On to my questions on the differences. With the NCE decoders I can use CV 95 reverse trim to adjust reverse to be the same as forward.
www.crossroadscounselingcenters.com/ckfinder/userfiles/files/canon-canoscan-n650u-manual.pdf
If you can trim reverse both slower and faster (relative to forward), why would you need forward trim? Comments? Suggestions. One day, the headlight started flashing and then just quit altogether. I wanted to add Back EMF and so have replaced the DH123D with a DH166D. I also have purchased from Atlas LED lights to replace my burned out bulbs, (whatever it was that Atlas supplied the loco with). With the LEDs, do I need to include resistors in the light Circuits? Unless this is board replacement decoder, you will need resistors (and may still need them if it's not clear on a drop-in board packaging.) If it's plug and play, you're probably good if there is reference to that. If it's a generic decoder with just wires to connect, even if it has a 9-pin or other plug, you'll need the resistors. If not obvious which it is, probably best to contact Digitrax. One day, the headlight started flashing and then just quit altogether. With the LEDs, do I need to include resistors in the light Circuits. The 166D is a series 6 decoder, so it has a selectable output for LEDs (no resistors needed). Just be sure the correct algorithm is selected, and as Mike said, depending upon how you have it wired in. Fortunately, they have it pretty well documented.This may just be a small tubular bump covered by heat shrink tubing on one wire attached to the LED. If this is the case you can connect these LEDs directly to the decoder. See page 22 of the Digitrax Decoder Manual ( ). What tmurray is referring to is that Series 6 decoders have FX3 lighting algorithms that are selectable for either lamps or LEDs. This makes the lighting effects appear the same whether you are using lamps or LEDs. Hope this helps. David I have resistors to connect, just wanted to know if they where needed, thanks all. Mike is that really a photo of you? Taken by my wife at the Colorado RR Museum in Golden while I was doing my best Casey Jones pose. Kept me out of pilot school, too.
One, an MDC Harriman Tenwheeler with a Digitrax SDX064D which only provides sound; so, has to also have a motor decoder. I have worked on this one off and on for more than a year and have talked with Digitrax many times and just can't seem to be able to determine why this set-up will not work. This was my first attempt at sound decoder installation. The fact that it has stymied me is why I am hesitant to try again. The above is not what I want to contact you about, only showing my experience with sound decoder installations. At present, I have started another installation, a Brass PFM Northern Pacific Y-1 Consolidation, with a TCS decoder and Soundtraxx speaker. I am just tarting, I know the stall current is below the amperage of the motor and I am building a baffle box for the speaker. I also have a Soundtraxx swivel connector for the tender to loco connection. If I get stuck, would you be willing to lend a willing ear to help me. Would also be willing to listen to other experts here. I know, this is not an Atlas product and if I have made a major fo-pah here, maya coulpa! Things here are not Atlas specific, just that's the community that moved here after Atlas shut down its forum. Anything goes that's model RR-related. Can't say I've done any dual-decoder installs. What I know about them is that you have to enable the lock that is typically on CV 15 and 16 for one decoder, program the other decoder, lock it, then unlock the other decoder and program it, the lock it. I'm sure there's some nuances to how that works. If I can't help, there are some good folks here with plenty of DCC experience who I'm sure will also be glad to lend their advice. I assume the Soundtraxx swivel connector is the same item as used on the Blackstone K-27. If so, that should get most if not all the circuits needed between the loco and tender. Mike do you know if Soundtraxx' 810131, Large Mega Bass Speaker needs to be installed in a box or Baffle as some like to call it?
(After some research, I found that a baffle is made for enclosing the 810131 speaker, so I have gone ahead and built a wood speaker enclosure for this loco). I had heard that the old ATLAS Forum had been shut down due to rancor within the ranks. Does the new name have something to do with that problem? To their credit they have left the AF available online to this day so that modellers can access the old posts for research purposes. It has become every bit as popular as the old AF, attracted many of the well-known contributors from the AF, and sometimes gets just as contentious as the old AF (which is not a bad thing). I hope you'll find a home here as well. BTW, you might want to set up a signature block to let everyone know your interests, etc. I only found your name and interests by seeing your message in the Welcome forum. Mike do you know if Soundtraxx' 810131, Large Mega Bass Speaker needs to be installed in a box or Baffle as some like to call it? (After some research, I found that a baffle is made for enclosing the 810131 speaker, so I have gone ahead and built a wood speaker enclosure for this loco). That should work. I tend to believe in enclosures, although if you read Bruce Petraca's DCC column in MRH, he doesn't. But essentially he does, because he seems to use baffles. What's going on? Well, a ported enclosure is best, although sometimes one that's not ported works well. What porting does is allow the sound to escape out the back, as well as from the front. This generally aids lower freqs more, as they are less directional. Gotta get back to the diss. In the end there is no visual change for the hours of work invested. Rather than show a bunch of opened up locos with messy wiring, here are pictures of the decoders I'm using. I use it with engines that draw over an amp but less than 2.5. This arrangement is called dual decoders and means forfeiting the Tsunami's Dynamic Digital Exhaust feature.
www.crea-solution.com/ckfinder/userfiles/files/canon-canoscan-n340p-manual.pdf
With Dual Decoders, I program the motor decoder to a primary address of one and the sound decoder to two. This is in every engine so I can remember it. Then I program both to the loco's number for the extended address. That way by changing CV 29 I can program either decoder without effecting the other. I can get away with the same primary address in every loco because it is only set to one engine at a time as I'm programming it. This was not my Idea, I read it in an article by Don Fiehmann but it really works well. What a disappointment. Perhaps IF I had tried it after only hearding PFM sound it might have been acceptable. In fairness, I also installed a DSX in an Atlas SW-8 switcher and I'm very pleased with it. Now if only I could find a reasonably priced box cab electric sound decoder. I bought ten because there was a price break at that quantity. I figured I would be using them in dual decoder applications and in the Z-1 and Y-1 electrics. I don't believe the Digitraxx amp rating is accurate. Although my amp meter showed the engines drawing just over an amp, eventually all the DH 123D's were fried. Each went quickly without warning, just a puff of smoke. I also found the instruction manual much more complicated than necessary. I guess if I had a Phd from MIT ---- but I digress. I have not used a Digitraxx product since. These also burnt up before the three amp threshold was reached.They also did not have all the features I wanted. They are rated at 1.8 amps and are a bit more expensive. But rather than burning up, they just stop when they get too hot. All you have to do is wait a few minutes and then reset CV 30. For locos that seemed to get hot too often I've Swapped out the Gold for a Lenz Gold Maxi and have not had any trouble. When you factor in the cost a fried decoder vs just resetting it, these are much more reasonably priced. QSI is releasing what they call a Magnum decoder that is rated for 2.7 amps. They also list a GG-1 electric as coming.
Time should tell. Invest in a good soldering iron and high-quality solder. A list of suggested tools and where you can get them has been included in this packet. Decoder installation is not a job for your old soldering gun. Insulate all connections. Plastic electrical tape is not an acceptable substitute since it has a habit of unwrapping itself. Kapton tape is the best option Use the proper size wire. Most decoders come equipped with 28 or 30AWG stranded wire. However, this may not he heavy enough to handle surge currents caused by a short between the locomotive trucks. Heavier wire, such as 24AWG, is a better choice for jumpers between truck pickups. Disassemble locomotives carefully. Refer to the exploded parts diagram that comes with the locomotive when taking an engine apart. For complex models it s a good idea to label the parts and place them in a multi-compartment box. Isolate the motor. Before installing a decoder, the two motor terminals must be electrically isolated from the chassis or frame. Reliable track pickup is essential. Most of today's plastic diesels feature all-wheel pickup. With few exceptions, most brass locomotives (and some brass diesels) don't. They use the drivers (or lead truck in the case of brass diesels) to pick up from the right rail and the tender wheels (or rear diesel truck) to pick up from the left rail. This usually results in erratic operation. Consider adding wipers or other extra pickups before installing a decoder. Do not exceed the decoder's current rating. You can use a lower-rated motor with a decoder rated at a higher current, but not vice-versa. Also, provide adequate ventilation. Decoders heat up under load or when operated near the rated output current. Neatness counts. Don't allow any exposed wires or components to touch the metal chassis or weights. Use caution when wiring headlights. When headlights are wired to the decoder, be sure to add the total current of the headlights to the motor current.
(See Lighting and Led Guide and Applicable Resistors) Equip each locomotive with its own decoder. A decoder in each locomotive provides better performance and lets you tune the performance of that particular locomotive. Economizing here will cost you more. Use decoder addresses that are easy to remember. You may recall that GP35-2 no. 266 has an address of 4, but Will your operators. We suggest using the last two digits o4 the 4 Digits of the locomotive number. It s also a good idea to place a self-adhesive label listing the decoder type and address on the underside of each locomotive. Basic decoder installation All the major Manufacturers such as Atlas, Kato, Life-Like, and Stewart and others have made decoder installation a breeze in their newer locomotives by including a receptacle (See diagram in appendix) that's pre-wired for a DCC decoder. You simply remove the factory-installed plug. Plug in the appropriate decoder, and you're ready to go. But before you can do this you need to determine which decoder is the best to use. All decoder installations include the following steps: (1) Select a decoder that fits inside the body shell and has the required current rating. (2) Tony s Decoder Comparison Matrix is a handy reference for selecting sizes and features. (3) Isolate the motor from the track pickups. (4) Install the decoder along with wiring for any extra effects, and (5) Test the completed installation. With many Bachmann steam locomotives there are yellow capacitors that need to be removed in order for optimal operation. If they are not removed you may experience poor speed control. Selecting a decoder The decoder size will be dictated by the amount of room inside the engine or tender. You also need to select a decoder with a current rating higher than the stall current of the motor. It's best to measure the stall current on your particular locomotive. (See Figure 1) Set the meter on the DC amps scale.
Grasp the locomotive so it doesn't take off and turn the power pack to full. One decoder can drive multiple motors, provided the sum of the stall currents doesn't exceed the decoder's current rating. Isolating the motor The motor must be completely isolated from all track pickup points. If the locomotive has it built-in command control socket the motor is already isolated. But an older model, or one without it built-in socket, means you need to find and eliminate all connections between the motor brushes and track pickups. This is usually the biggest problem people have when they first step into command control. Diesel locomotives are fairly straightforward, but in brass steam locomotives the mechanical pickups can he quite ingenious and well hidden. Use it volt-ohm meter to verify electrical isolation. Set your meter on the ohms (resistance) scale and touch both probes together. The meter will indicate a short. You don't want to see this indication when you're checking for motor isolation. Place one of the probes on it brush and touch the other probe to the chassis or left rail pickup wire and then move it to the right rail pickup wire. If the motor is isolated you will read an open circuit. Move the probe to the other brush and repeat the tests. If both tests indicate an open circuit, the motor is isolated and you can safely proceed with decoder installation. Athearn HO diesel installation (See Figure 2) Since most HO railroads have at least one Athearn diesel, showing how to equip one with a decoder seemed an excellent start in place for us. Athearn motors aren't isolated from the frame, so the first step is to change that. Remove the shell from the frame and discard the metal connector clip. Don't remove the brush-retaining clips located underneath. Next pull up on the motor until the mounting pads pop out of the holes. The drive train will slip apart as the motor comes out. Set these components aside.
Place a strip of nylon-reinforced strapping tape on the floor of the fuel tank. Completely cover the shiny metal area where the motor was sitting, but be sure to keep the tape clear of the motor mount holes. The brushes are held in place with clips, and we'll be soldering the motor connection wires directly to these. Pry off both clips, being careful not to let the brush springs and brushes fly across tile room. Cut the two small prongs from the underside of the bottom brush clip and file smooth. The decoder's color-coded wires should comply with the NMRA-recommended coding Shown in table 1. Solder the gray motor - (minus) wire to the outside of the curved end of the lower brush clip. Reinstall the brush and spring. Snap the clip back in place then set the motor aside for now. The track pickup wires connect with the chassis. Drill and tap it hole in the chassis for a 2-56 brass machine screw where it won't interfere with the body. Next, solder the left rail pickup wire (black) to the top of the bolt. Carefully reinstall the motor by reseating the rubber pads and test the motor to ensure it's completely isolated. Now solder the red right rail pickup wire to the top of the metal tab on the truck. Jump the two trucks together using it short length of red wire. Mount the decoder using a piece of double-sided tape. Snap the body back onto the frame and your decoder is ready for programming. The extra wires on the decoder are for optional effects including headlights and other functions. Consult the decoder instruction booklet for suggestions and limitations. The diagram shows how we equipped our Athearn engines with directional lighting. There is a special harness made by Digitrax that simplifies conventional Athearn installation, DHAT. This harness can be used on any decoder that has the JST connector. (See photos on Page 4) IHC HO installation (See Figure 3) It's a little trickier to install decoders in steam locomotives, but it isn't difficult.
Just keep in mind how most steamers pick up power from the rails and deliver it to the motor. Since brass locomotives need to be approached on a (almost) case-by case basis, we're going to describe steamer installation using International Hobby Corporation's Mogul. The engine picks up power from the drivers on both sides. The front tender truck picks up power from the left rail and the rear truck picks up from the right rail. Two wires between the tender and locomotive transmit power from the tender to the motor. To install the decoder, remove the boiler mounting screws and gently lift the boiler from the frame. Next, remove the screw securing the motor mounting bracket and carefully lift the motor until you see the wires between the motor wires Cut these motor wires but don't cut the pickup wires from the tender. Unsolder the remains of the original motor wires and discard. Solder two new wires to the sides of the motor. Connect these to the decoder motor output. Route the two new motor wires back toward the tender following the same path as the power pickup wires. You may want to place a small plug between the locomotive and tender. Remount the motor then slide the frame and motor assembly back into the boiler. Pull the wires back toward the tender and ensure the boiler fits properly. Install the pilot truck brass tensioner and mounting screw. Then install the screw underneath the cab. Finally, reattach the pilot truck. Modifications to the engine are complete. You should have the two original pickup wires and two additional wires extending from the back of the locomotive frame. We'll be mounting the decoder inside the tender but first we need to insulate the tender pickups from the frame. Remove the tender shell. The two pickup wires are soldered to brass tabs on top of the truck screws. Leave these in place and solder two lengths of wire to connect each of the brass tabs with the two decoder input wires. Insulate the splice with heat-shrink tubing.