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Checked the owners manual which told me to seek qualified assistance urgrently (for me or the Landy ?). Anyways, I let it cool down for about 2 hours and then took it for a good run with no apparent faults. What would be or have been the probable cause and is this going to hurt ?. Thanks, Anthony. p.s. Could this be related to the recent fitment of an egr bypass kit from a well known supplier and yes I did blank off the vacuum hose ?.I bet you its shot and needs to be replaced. My brother in laws had this on a Tassie trip. Replaced the battery.voila! All fixed. Cheers AngusThese may be loose enough to cause the problem.try tightening them. 2 the inhibitor switch on the side of the gearbox.It gets dripped on by the outlet for the aircondinioning.corrodes and can intermittantly cause the lights to come on. (i gave mine a good soak with Lanox and seemed good for a week and half now doing it again) in a couple of weeks we are getting the engine mounts done and will get M R Automotive to check it outEnded up removing cleaning and refitting all the earth connections I could find, but I'm sure it was the Main battery cable where it connects to the body near the engine ECU and down on the engine, both of these were really grubby - I was about to race and get a battery - not needed.The bad news: Problem returned and ended up being the gear position switch (got so bad the 123DNRP did not even show up on the instrument panel). Just prior to replacement I could only start in Neutral. Hoping it's one of the easy ones for you. Cheers MikeIts not a big job to change these over, though I'm not sure what the part costs. The inhibitor switch is what wont let it start and tells you and the ECU what gear you're in.I've been sweating buckets over this but the fixes seem pretty easy. Probably won't hurt a bit. Cheers, Anthony.Tried the bad earth and battery thing but it turned out to be the gear position switch. Not hard o change but a bit trickey setting up.
http://www.giappo.com/public/bully-dog-gt-tuner-diesel-manual.xml
I got mine wrong which resulted in the car thinking it was in gear so wouldn't start. Originally I thought the starter had then given up so fitted a new starter but didn't cure the problem. I had to slowly push the gear selector (auto) in the car forward with the key turned in the ignition until the computer thought the car was in park. Stayed like this for a whil until I got back underneath, changed back to the original starter and took my time setting up the gear position switch correctly. Now it's perfect.Don't rush putting it in gear. Any feedback on this would be appreciated. WDon't rush putting it in gear. Any feedback on this would be appreciated. W Land Rover is not affiliated with AULRO.com. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More. We have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place. Any one got any ideas or can you point me in the right direction? I aint gorra clue what caused it though. Would be nice to know.Click to expand. Anyone know?I trucked mine 1000 klms to a LR dealer for them to find the problem too. Got another good battery you can through in to check. Just a thought.I trucked mine 1000 klms to a LR dealer for them to find the problem too. Got another good battery you can through in to check. Just a thought. Click to expand. Update then for you all regards my visit this week to Hall Electrical. Left it with them for a couple of hours and this is what the test results say: 23 Fuel Temp Sensor Curcuit 14 Rear Speed Missing Fault 113 3 Peak Charge Long 137 3 Open Curcuit ABS 134 Shuttle Valve Switch They have cleared down all the faults on the assumption that some might have been historic and they also want to know what starts first.we have it booked in for Tuesday this coming week.
http://www.casastoantonio.com.br/datamont/userfiles/bully-dog-gauge-tuner-gt-manual.xml
So anyone like to give some ideas on the above test results to help these guys out and save me a few quid on labour!! But I guess it would just be throwing money away on having Halls do things as there may still be problems. I'm going down to Halfords to see if I can get hold of a new battery as a previous reply suggested. They’ll be able to advise and, if necessary, take your Land Rover in for repair. The key Land Rover warning lights are either Red, Amber or Green Red means stop as soon as it’s safe. Amber means that action is required. To book a Land Rover service, contact your local dealer today.Checkout our complete guide to BMW Warning Lights. Worried about your Audi. Checkout our complete guide to Audi Warning Lights. Worried about your Mercedes-Benz. Checkout our complete guide to Mercedes-Benz Warning Lights. ?Red Warning Lights If it doesn’t, or it comes onStop as soon asThe lamp extinguishes when the relevant seat belt is buckled. This light will also come on if you place a heavy item like a bag on a seat (not recommended).If it comesFollow the on-screen messages; your Land RoverThe lamp also illuminates ifRover dealer. ? ? Carrying on could irreparably damage yourStop as soon asIf you don’t doYou will also feel a vibration through the steeringCheck and top up the oil level, if necessary. StartIf the lamp flashes, HDC has been selected, but the operating conditions are not being met or HDC fade-out is occurring.The lamp extinguishes after 6 seconds. If the lamp illuminates again, there is a fault with the airbag system. Contact your Land Rover dealer as soon as possible.? If the lamp remains on, or illuminates while driving, there is a fault with the ABS system. Drive with care, avoiding heavy braking. Contact roadside assistance or a Land Rover dealer.? If the lamp illuminates after starting the engine, or while driving, your Land Rover’s brake pads could be worn. Alternatively, there could be a fault with the braking system.
https://www.thebiketube.com/acros-3racing-winch-manual
You can still drive with care but contact your Land Rover dealer as soon as possible.? If it comes on when the engine is running, an emissions-related fault has been detected. The vehicle remains safe to drive with the lamp illuminated but reduce the vehicle's speed as soon as it is safe to do so and contact your nearest Land Rover dealer as soon as possible. While the lamp is illuminated, the engine may also enter limp-home mode, reducing the engine power to prevent damage. The warning lamp also illuminates if the incorrect fluid has been added to the system, or if there is a fault with the system. The instrument panel will also display a warning message. Follow the on-screen messages, if safe to do so. If there is a fault with the system, it will stay on and the instrument panel will show a warning message. The vehicle can still be driven, but DSC won’t be operating. As this is an important safety system, contact your Land Rover dealer as soon as possible. The lamp is accompanied by a chime and a confirmation message in the instrument panel.? The instrument panel also displays a warning message. Follow the on-screen messages, if possible. The lamp will go out once the engine is running. The arrow shows which side of the vehicle the fuel filler flap is located. The instrument panel also displays a warning message. Stop the vehicle as soon as it is safe to do so. Check the tyre pressures. Inflate to the recommended pressure. If the lamp flashes, this indicates a system fault. Green Information Lights This will automatically dip your lights to avoid dazzling oncoming traffic.? If a direction indicator bulb fails, the visual and audible warnings flash and sound at twice the normal rate.? If a vehicle or object is detected in the user defined sensitivity area, a warning tone sounds. If you change lane without indicating, or stray from your lane inadvertently, the symbol will flash red and the steering wheel will vibrate.
http://www.gongoff.com/images/broce-broom-rj350-parts-manual.pdf
Top Selling New Land Rover modelsTelephone calls may be recorded for quality and training purposes. Disclaimer We may receive a commission payment from the finance provider if you decide to enter into an agreement with them.Telephone calls may be recorded for quality and training purposes. Disclaimer We may receive a commission payment from the finance provider if you decide to enter into an agreement with them.You may choose to consent to our use of these technologies, or further manage your preferences.These cookies allow our website to provide services at your request. They also allow us to update our website to improve performance and tailor it to your preferences. These cookies don’t collect any information that could identify you - all the information collected is anonymous. They will not be used to target adverts to you on other websites. They also remember any customisations you make to the website to give you enhanced, more personal features. They also measure the effectiveness of advertising campaigns. These cookies allow our website to provide services at your request. They also remember any customisations you make to the website to give you enhanced, more personal features. They also measure the effectiveness of advertising campaigns. Find out more about cookies. Driving mostly in town the car battery do not get enough time to charge and therefore would run down.If it does, expect it back in a few months and expect to be buying a battery within the next yearI'll post the images.when I get it right! I opened it up anyway.not like the old type that worked like a 'slider'. Everything is in good nick and no burns and the Seal still good. I closed the casing with pop-rivets.wires taped up and the whole assembly a good coat of Q20. All connected up.I drove up and down the driveway with no problems! I'll take it for a drive later and report back.
one thing though, when I pressed the Mode button, the 'S' Light came on, I pressed again, it went off and the Disco seemed to be in 3rd again.but I'll see what she does later.Try to move both battery clamps without loosening them. If you can, they need tightening. If they can't be tightened, remove, take out the bolt and run an angle grinder through the slot to widen it, then reassemble.I'll post the images.when I get it right! I opened it up anyway.not like the old type that worked like a 'slider'. Everything is in good nick and no burns and the Seal still good. I closed the casing with pop-rivets.wires taped up and the whole assembly a good coat of Q20. All connected up.I drove up and down the driveway with no problems! I'll take it for a drive later and report back.one thing though, when I pressed the Mode button, the 'S' Light came on, I pressed again, it went off and the Disco seemed to be in 3rd again.but I'll see what she does later. The problem is that I don't even press the button and both S and M is flashing and the Disco stays in the low gear. My next test will be the Battery, as advised.Who would you recommend LL? Get to know some of the most common Land Rover dashboard warning lights, and learn what to do when they appear so you can be prepared when taking your Range Rover or Discovery out on Rockville Centre roads. It typically turns on after a few seconds. If the symbol illuminates while you’re driving, this signals that the airbag may have malfunctioned. Contact your local authorized Land Rover retailer as opposed to a generic auto repair shop, and get a certified Land Rover service technician to look at the issue as soon as possible to address this critical safety feature. When you select this feature, it automatically turns on your high beams in the right driving conditions. You’ll see this green light illuminate when Auto High Beam has turned on your vehicle’s high beams. When you deactivate this feature, the symbol will simply turn off.
www.dantizuma.com/files/files/carrier-58pav090-16-manual.pdf
As soon as the engine fully turns on, however, it should disappear. If this light stays on for more than a few seconds or if it turns on while you’re in motion, this is a sign that there’s something wrong with your battery. Get professional assistance immediately, since your vehicle’s battery might not be charging properly. Since low brake fluid can significantly compromise or eliminate your ability to stop your vehicle safely, you’ll want to pull over to top off this fluid as soon as possible. If the brake warning light continues to stay illuminated, your vehicle might have a more complex brake problem that requires professional assistance. If the symbol appears red, it’s a critical message that you should address right away. As soon as it’s safe, pull your vehicle over and bring it to a complete stop before accessing the message center. Depending on the message, you might need to have the vehicle serviced right away. If the warning symbol appears amber, this signals that the message is more general and less critical. Access the message center at your earliest convenience, and contact your local service center for assistance if necessary. If the system encounters a problem, you’ll see a message indicating that in your vehicle’s message center. If it stays on or if it turns on while you’re driving, the check engine light signals that your engine has a problem with emissions. Though you can continue to drive your Land Rover when this amber symbol appears, its performance might suffer. Take it to your service center to address the issue at your earliest convenience. It’s typically accompanied by a text-based message that reads “ENGINE OVERHEATING.” This Land Rover warning light indicates that your vehicle’s engine has exceeded a safe temperature level, and you’re in danger of permanently damaging your vehicle. To prevent irreparable damage, stop the vehicle as soon as you have the opportunity to do so safely.
Turn off the engine and contact your dealership before operating the vehicle again. Since there may be ice on the road, take additional care when driving. When this symbol appears green, the Forward Alert feature is active, which means your Land Rover will alert you when you cease to maintain a safe distance from vehicles in front of you. If you select the system but you’re not driving in the right conditions, you’ll see this light flash briefly. You’ll also feel the steering wheel vibrate to indicate that you’ve crossed a lane marking. To stop the warning, simply steer back into your lane or use the turn signal to change lanes safely. No matter if this symbol lights up briefly or if it stays on for several minutes, it requires immediate attention. Pull your vehicle over and turn off the engine as soon as possible. Check the oil level and add more if it’s too low. Once you’ve topped off the oil, try turning on your Land Rover again. If the oil symbol still illuminates, seek assistance from your dealership before driving further. Save money on your next oil change with service coupons at Land Rover Freeport! Since poor tire conditions like low tire pressure and underinflation can lead to accidents and unsafe driving conditions, pull over your vehicle as soon as possible. Access the accompanying alert in the message center, and re-inflate the affected tires as necessary. If the light flashes, have the monitoring system addressed by your local dealership. When you hook up the turn signals to your Land Rover, you’ll see the green Trailer Turn Signals turn on momentarily when you start the vehicle. You’ll also see the light flash when you use the turn signals. By doing so, you’ll ensure that your Land Rover stays safely on the roads of Freeport for as long as possible. Get your automotive questions answered at the Land Rover Freeport service center, like how many miles do tires last, why is the car leaking, and more!
First, you should check your vehicle’s manual to make sure that you buy the correct type of oil for your car. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. This morning the flashing M and S come on. Truck seemed to go into gear but had no power. I shut the engine off and restarted - no lights no problem. It has done this on several occasions before over the last couple of years.Shut down re-start and alls well. Don't have clue as to what it is but I'm damn sure glad it goes away on re-start! Cut and pasted. When the ignition is switched on, a bulb check is performed on the transmission temperature warning lamp and the mode warning lamps by the instrument pack and the EAT ECU respectively. The warning lamps are illuminated for approximately 3 seconds and then extinguished. The gear position switch outputs are monitored by the BCU and the EAT ECU. The BCU outputs gear position signals to illuminate the position indicators each side of the gear selector lever and on the odometer LCD in the instrument pack. In D, 3, 2, and 1, the EAT ECU outputs control signals to the gearbox to select the required gear. In D, all forward gears are available for selection by the EAT ECU. In 3, 2 and 1, a corresponding limit is imposed on the highest gear available for selection. Selector lever interlock (where fitted) The interlock solenoid on the selector lever is de-energized unless the foot brake is applied while the ignition is on. While de-energized, the interlock solenoid allows the selector lever to move through the range unless P is selected. On entering the P position, the interlock solenoid engages a latch, which locks the selector lever. When the ignition is on and the foot brake is applied, the BCU energizes the interlock solenoid, which disengages the latch and allows the selector lever to be moved out of P.
damabilisim.com/images_upload/files/carrier-58pav090-14-manual.pdf
Economy, sport and manual modes During the power-up procedure after the ignition is switched on, the EAT ECU defaults to an economy mode. Pressing the mode switch causes the EAT ECU to change between the economy mode and the sport or the manual mode, depending on the range selected on the transfer box: If the transfer box is in high range, the EAT ECU changes to the sport mode and illuminates the sport mode warning lamp in the instrument pack. In the sport mode the gearbox is more responsive to accelerator pedal movement. Downshifts occur earlier and upshifts occur later. If the transfer box is in low range, the EAT ECU changes to the manual mode and illuminates the manual mode warning lamp in the instrument pack. Downshifts occur only to prevent the engine stalling. From a standing start, the vehicle pulls away in 1st gear and, if a higher gear is selected, upshifts almost immediately to the selected gear (shifts of more than one gear can occur). After a second press of the mode switch the EAT ECU reverts to the economy mode, for the range selected on the transfer box, and extinguishes the related mode warning lamp in the instrument pack. Base shift points are derived from the appropriate shift map. When a shift is required, the EAT ECU sends a request to the ECM for a reduction in engine torque, in order to produce a smoother shift. The percentage of torque reduction requested varies according to the operating conditions at the time of the request. When the EAT ECU receives confirmation of the torque reduction from the ECM, it then signals the shift solenoid valves in the gearbox to produce the shift. To further improve shift quality, the EAT ECU also signals the pressure regulating solenoid valve to modulate the hydraulic pressure and so control the rate of engagement and disengagement of the brake clutches. With time, the components in a gearbox wear and the duration of the gear shifts tends to increase, which has an adverse effect on the brake clutches.
To counteract this, the EAT ECU applies a pressure adaptation to each shift. To calculate the adaptations, the EAT ECU monitors the pressure modulation used, and time taken, for each shift. If a subsequent shift of the same type, in terms of throttle position and engine speed, has a longer duration, the EAT ECU stores an adaptation for that type of shift in a volatile memory. The adaptation is then included in future pressure calculations for that type of shift, to restore shift duration to the nominal. Kickdown The EAT ECU monitors the input of the throttle position sensor to determine when kickdown is required. When it detects a kickdown situation, the EAT ECU immediately initiates a down shift provided the target gear will not cause the engine speed limit to be exceeded. Torque converter lock-up The EAT ECU energizes the lock-up solenoid valve to engage the lock-up clutch. Lock-up clutch operation is dependent on throttle position, engine speed, operating mode and the range selected on the transfer box. High range Unique lock-up maps, similar to the shift maps, are incorporated in the economy and sport modes for all forward gears. Engagement and disengagement of the lock-up clutch is dependent on throttle position and engine speed. Low range To enhance off road control, particularly when maneuvering at low speeds, torque converter lock-up does not occur when there is any degree of throttle opening. When the throttle is closed about a preset engine speed, the lock-up clutch engages to provide maximum engine braking. These maps delay upshifts and torque converter lock-up similar to the sport mode if the inputs from the engine indicate: A sustained high load on the engine, such as occurs when the vehicle is ascending a steep gradient or towing a trailer. A lower than normal engine torque, such as occurs at altitude or high ambient temperatures. The EAT ECU monitors the engine inputs and selects the most appropriate adaptive map for the prevailing conditions.
Diagnostics While the ignition is on, the EAT ECU diagnoses the system for faults. The extent of the diagnostic capability at any particular time depends on the prevailing operating conditions, e.g. it is not possible to check torque converter lock up while the vehicle is stationary, or to check for a short circuit to earth if the circuit concerned is already at a low potential. If a fault is detected, the EAT ECU immediately stores a fault code and the values of three operating parameters associated with the fault. Depending on the fault, there are four possible effects: The fault has little effect on gearbox operation or vehicle emissions. The driver will probably not notice any change and the warning lamps remain extinguished. The fault has little effect on gearbox operation but may effect vehicle emissions. On NAS vehicles, if the fault is detected on a second consecutive drive cycle, the MIL illuminates. All gears are available but kickdown does not function. The sport and manual warning lamps flash. The MIL remains extinguished. Limp home mode is selected and vehicle performance is greatly reduced. The sport and manual warning lamps flash. In all markets, if the fault is detected on a second consecutive drive cycle, the MIL illuminates. After the detection of a fault, the effects remain active for the remainder of the drive cycle. In subsequent drive cycles, as soon as the EAT ECU diagnoses the fault is no longer present, it resumes normal control of the gearbox. The conditions required to diagnose that the fault is no longer present depend on the fault. Some faults require the engine to be started, others require only that the ignition is switched on. After a fault has not recurred for forty warm-up cycles, the fault is deleted from the EAT ECU memory. Only five different faults can be stored in the memory at any one time. If a further fault occurs, the fault with the lowest priority will be replaced by the new fault.
Mechanical limp home In the mechanical limp home mode, gear engagement is controlled by the manual valve. The gearbox is fixed in 4th gear if the fault occurs while the vehicle is moving, or 3rd gear if the fault occurs while the vehicle is stationary. 3rd gear is also engaged if a vehicle is brought to a stop and the selector lever is moved out of, and back into, D, Neutral and reverse gear are also available. This does explain why it had no power. Probably in 4th. Can anyone explain this in Laymans' terms? If the transmission computer sees something it doesn't like, it will go into Limp Home mode. Limp home puts the transmission in 3rd gear if the fault happened while it was moving, 4th gear if it happened while stopped. To the best of my knowledge, Testbook (Or Eqiv) is the only way to recover and clear the codes. I had similar issues resolved by a new battery. I've experienced it twice.Gas cap not on properly. Did you happen to fill up your tank shortly before you experienced it? No lights, no problems getting into gear, nothing of the sort. Then all of a sudden I remembered that I bought a Rover.God bless these things. Abercrombie Mechanic pinched my gasket and it was leaking when the vehicle was on a slope of 30 degrees or higher. Only noticed because it caught fire on such a slope on a trail. I now have 100K on her and this problem has come up about once every 5 months or so.I just turn it off and re-start - no problems. We are working every day to make sure our community is one of the best. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Started her up to test drive and found the sport and manual mode lights flashing. The original problem was blown fusible link 13 which lead to starter solenoid bad.
During troubleshooting I left the key in the on position and killed the battery.The rave said it was a urgent Electrical fault in the automatic gearbox. Any idea on the fix my brain is shot.:banghead: The bad part is you'll need a Rover-specific diagnostic computer to clear the error code. Had you searched, you would have found many threads on this topic. The bad part is you'll need a Rover-specific diagnostic computer to clear the error code. Had you searched, you would have found many threads on this topic.I thought English was your primary language. I suspect that the transmission fault is unrelated to the fusible links and that a battery replacement might resolve the transmission issue, but regardless, it will almost certainly require resetting the ATCU. Land rover thought it would be a good idea to mount the trans ECU under the drivers seat in a non-waterproof case (like all of the ecu's). I had to replace the main bcu, ecu and keys. Once that was done the lights went away, I did not connect anything upto the truck to clear the codes either, If it doesnt work with the battery replaced, I would look into the wiring by the transmission, maybe it was knocked loose while changing out the starter wires. Just a thought Mark Either way, the problem is most likely related to low battery voltage. The first step is to either charge the battery or replace it. We are working every day to make sure our community is one of the best. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. By upgrading to the latest version of Internet Explorer you'll see and be able to use this site in the way we intended and your general internet browsing will be more secure as it will have been upgraded to take into account the latest security standards. Try different keywords. Try more general keywords. It allows you to enjoy a range of activities, for example, swimming or surfing, when the smart key would be obstructive or difficult to keep secure.
Automatic High Beam Assist automatically dips headlamps for oncoming or followed vehicles and switches back on when vehicles have passed. The Discovery Sport's keyless entry system enables effortless entry and start to get you quickly on your way. Registered in England No: 1672070 Some vehicles are shown with optional equipment that may not be available in all markets. Please contact your local retailer for local availability and prices. The figures provided are as a result of official manufacturer's tests in accordance with EU legislation. A vehicle's actual fuel consumption may differ from that achieved in such tests and these figures are for comparative purposes only. As the dominant preferred access by customers it will be available to customers via Smartphone Pack where installed. It measures fuel, energy consumption, range and emissions. This is designed to provide figures closer to real-world driving behaviour. It tests vehicles with optional equipment and with a more demanding test procedure and driving profile.