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It was powered by four-cylinder petrol, six-cylinder petrol and six-cylinder diesel engines, the latter a first for the 3 Series. The E30 325iX model was the first 3 Series to have all-wheel drive. Following the launch of the E36 3 Series in 1990, the E30 began to be phased out.In the 318i, a 1,796 cc (110 cu in) version of the M40 was used. The 316i model replaced the 316, using a 1,596 cc (97 cu in) version of the M40.The e is an abbreviation for eta, which is used to represent the thermal efficiency of a heat engine. To maximise low-rev torque, the 325e engine was the largest available in an E30 (aside from the 333i model, which was only sold in South Africa). The 325e engine had a longer stroke than the 325i version, with a more restrictive head, four cam bearings instead of seven, and single valve springs (instead of the dual valve springs used by the 325i version).The M21 engine used a Garrett turbocharger (without an intercooler). The engine has a capacity of 2,443 cc (149 cu in) and uses mechanical fuel injection.The front MacPherson struts and rear semi-trailing arm suspension were a compact arrangement that left a lot of cabin and boot space for the car's overall size. The semi-trailing arms have been criticized for the dynamic toe and camber changes inherent to the suspension geometry, causing bump steer in hard cornering situations (such as racing and autocross).The Z3-based BMW M Coupe uses a widened version of the same rear semi-trailing arm suspension.Production of the 320is continued until 1991. Sports suspension was fitted to all coupes, and to sedans produced from September 1989.However, the Baur remained on sale, alongside the factory convertible. The M3 convertible was only offered for the European market.The 1987 update models remained largely unchanged until the end of production, with the addition of the 318is model in 1989. Rust protection was improved with the update.Sedan production concluded on April 30, 1991 at Regensburg.PublishDrive. p.
http://foryoursalon.com/userfiles/cradlepoint-manual-ctr35.xml
324. ISBN 9781855209602. Retrieved 22 December 2017. Retrieved 22 December 2017. Retrieved 4 January 2017. CarTech Books. ISBN 978-1-934709-86-3. BMW 3-Series Collectors Guide: Generation 1 and 2 including M3. Motor Racing Publications.Brooklands Books. ISBN 1-85520-149-6. Revista Tecnica del Automovil. ANETO-ETAI. ISSN 1134-7155. BMW E30 - 3 Series Restoration Bible. Brooklands Books. ISBN 1-85520-678-1. Bentley Publishing. ISBN 0837603250. By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. FYI, the first scenario is easier. For one thing early eta engines have two crank-position sensors mounted to the bellhousing. The 1987 and later “super” eta engines and all 325i engines had crank-position sensors mounted to the front of the engine. This means that swapping from early to late is easier than from late to early, since there are no holes in the later bellhousing for mounting the sensor. If you are replacing the same kind of transmission (automatic for automatic, 260 for 260), you can use the original driveshaft by swapping the output flange on the transmission case to match. A 30-mm thin-walled socket is needed and you may as well replace the rear seal while you have it apart. All three are very similar because they have the same bellhousing bolt pattern and are the same length. That means they can be interchanged relatively easily. They all have a similar external shift linkage. Many external parts are swappable, but each has some differences that can complicate swaps. A few later transmissions were cast with an undrilled boss for the position sensors, so check carefully if you want to install one on your early eta engine. The bellhousing is approximately 10 mm deeper than the later bellhousing.
http://www.tenis-klubmoj.si/uporabnik/file/cradlepoint-ibr600-manual.xml
Many people have successfully swapped them without difficulty, but to be on the safe side you can use a thicker Sachs throw-out bearing (PN 21-51-12-04-525) to make up the difference. Rebuilding one isn’t for the timid, but it’s not impossible either. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) It is moved by the shifter to select either first or second gear. The synchronizers slow the shift and match the speed of the gear to the synchro sleeve for a smooth shift. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) All three have to be in near perfect condition for the transmission to shift well. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) First, the early (up to 1986 model year) shift linkage is mounted to a stamped-steel bracket bolted to the rear of the transmission. Starting in 1987, the transmission case incorporated bearing posts to more solidly mount the shift linkage. The linkage is not interchangeable between the two types, so make sure to get the linkage that matches your transmission and car. If you need to use the later linkage with an earlier transmission, you can use the mounting bracket from an E30 M3. The 240 transmission in M10-powered cars is not the same as the one in M42-powered 318is cars. The bellhousing bolt pattern is the biggest difference, aside from the later-style shift linkage. The M10 engine has a unique, smaller bolt pattern that ended with the demise of that four-cylinder engine family. The M42 318is engine shares its bolt pattern with the M50 six-cylinder family of engines used in the E36 models as well as the S50 engines used in later E36 and E46 cars. The transmission mounting crossmember has to be modified to fit the tilted angle of the later transmission. In general it’s best to stick with a transmission that matches the engine you are running—or at least one that shares the same bellhousing bolt pattern and orientation. The gearing is the same and the 240 transmission is plenty strong enough to handle the power of even a modified M10 engine.
http://www.raumboerse-luzern.ch/mieten/bose-t20-manual
Sure, it bolts into place, and a good driveshaft shop can shorten and weld a driveshaft to match, but any other transmission is going to be much heavier and stronger than needed. It must be used with a higher final-drive ratio to compensate on the highway, but really there is very little advantage and a few disadvantages. The 250 has a reputation for poor shift quality and is not as strong as the 260 used in the E30. The E36 driveshaft requires that you swap the center support bearing for an E30 unit. These are great-shifting, strong transmissions but it is hard to imagine a combination of M20 parts that stresses the strength of a Getrag 260. If you are swapping in a DOHC engine, a ZF is a great choice versus the Getrag 250. This holds true for engine swaps too. In many cases it’s recommended to stick with the car’s original transmission, clutch, and flywheel. This is not a difficult swap to perform, although collecting all the parts can be a challenge. The easiest way to do the swap is to buy a parts car and park it next to the transplant recipient while you perform the swap.Rarely do they give trouble. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) The shiny spot is actually iron transferred from the friction surface on the speed gear. This ring needs to be replaced. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) The dark color is from additives in the transmission fluid. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) When this happens there isn’t much time left before the ring comes apart and causes further damage. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) You can find most of the parts at a local junkyard or online with a bit of searching. Just be prepared for your swap to take a little longer since you don’t have another car nearby for reference. A pull-your-part type of junkyard makes this a little easier since you can use a parts car in the junkyard as your reference. Make sure to choose a manual based on the information in the “Interchange Chart” above.
https://gingersgarden.com/images/canon-pixma-mx330-manual.pdf
Pick one that has the holes for the rear crankshaft position sensors if your engine has them, otherwise you don’t need to be so picky. Pull the complete shift linkage from a manual car, including the tunnel bracket. This driveshaft must come from the engine and transmission combination you will end up with—a 318i with its Getrag 240 needs a different shaft than a 325 with a Getrag 260. Match giubo diameter or swap the output shaft on your donor transmission. You also need a set of brake and clutch pedals—either an entire pedal box assembly or just the two pedals and their pivot. It’s easy enough to pull the old pivot from under the dash and replace just the pedals, although some people prefer to swap the entire box assembly, which requires pulling the steering column. Make sure to buy and install a new pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft to support the manual transmission input shaft. Get new master and slave cylinders. It’s just not worth the chance of getting a defective set from a parts car. If you are going to remove all these parts during the swap, it makes sense to do it right and replace all the rubber pieces and wear items at the same time. Take your time and rebuild the shift linkage and check for other issues as well. Replace any used nylon self-locking nuts with new ones; they are not designed to be used indefinitely as their locking feature (the nylon insert) tends to break down with repeated use, especially in a hot and oily environment. E30s with manual transmissions have two clutch switches, one for the start relay and one for the cruise control. Manual transmissions have an external reverse light switch, which plugs into the car’s harness. In place of all this, automatic transmissions have a five-wire harness that connects each of these points to the automatic shifter. Compare the engagement teeth to the symmetrical teeth on the first gear (top). This improves shift performance in upshifts.
(Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) This feature also helps make it a smooth-shifting transmission. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) Similar to the 240 transmission’s asymmetrical engagement teeth, these help the upshift performance of the transmission. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) This is the kind of improvement that can be made during a transmission rebuild. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) Install both switches if you must have a functioning clutch-in start enable. If it does not bother you that your car can be started with the clutch in or out, just use one clutch switch. To get the cruise control working, find and unplug connector C143 (refer to the factory wiring diagram). This enables the cruise control when the start relay is disabled. Unplug the jumper connected to one of the clutch switch connectors near the pedal assembly. Plug the now-open connector to the clutch switch that you have installed. Your cruise control should now function properly. It’s hard to visualize how all these parts work together but after you spend some time with the parts in your hand it all makes sense. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic) Any damage or wear here causes poor shifting. Usually it’s the 2-3 synchronizers that go first. (Photo Courtesy Metric Mechanic ). See official rules. See official rules. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout.
You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. Must be longer than 2 characters. Must be longer than 2 characters. To make the bridge between them, you need to understand the Drivetrain.To get power to the gearbox, the clutch presses itself up hard against the flywheel of the engine. The clutch then drives the gearbox input shaft to make the main gearbox shaft turn. Through a series of cogs, the gearbox sends power to its output shaft, which bolts to the differential via the propshaft. From the differential, power is sent to each rear wheel through the drive shafts.The master will then push fluid through its pipe to the slave cylinder, which operates the clutch release lever.It is a service component, and therefore has a fixed lifetime - however, distances of up to 130,000 miles on an original clutch are not unheard of. If replacing the clutch, all three components should be replaced at the same time.This can be for a number of reasons; a worn disc, a failed bearing, or oil on the disc face. Any or all of these necessitate clutch replacement.If you can get the clutch all the way up with the engine still revving then the clutch requires maintenance.
For those that have access to a lift, the car can be raised enough to remove the gearbox without disturbing the rest of the drivetrain, but for those working on their own driveway, it is often better to remove the engine and gearbox together in order to fit new clutch components. Learn more about replacing the clutch.In total, seven different gearboxes were fitted to the E30; Four manuals, all produced by Getrag, and three automatics by ZF. The overall performance of a gearbox is measured by its ratio, found by dividing the ratio of 1st gear by the ratio of 5th.For example, a high ratio diff (4.27) combined with a high-ratio first gear (3.72) will make first gear useless. In contrast, a low-ratio diff (3.25) with a low-ratio gearbox (2.48 in first, for automatics) would be an appalling combination for city driving, with the acceleration of a glacier.While it is possible to remove the gearbox from the car in situ, it is considered much easier to disconnect the engine and remove both units in one.Getrag gearboxes can be identified by looking for the serial number stamped around the edge of the bell housing. This number should also contain letters, which will identify the following boxes:These boxes are the longer units with the shorter prop. The gearstick itself pivots around a ball, and at the other end of this pivot is a long shaft that runs into the gearbox and moves the internal gear selectors. While these rods are a relatively simple concept, the various joints and clips can deteriorate over time, leading to sloppy and clunky gear changes.Therefore a 318i will have a longer rod than 325i because the 318i gearbox is shorter. However, all 4-cyl models (316, 318i and 318iS ) share the same selector rod.To cushion the blow of the engine and gearbox moving (during clunky gear changes and heavy braking), there is a rubber doughnut known as the guibo bolted to the gearbox end of the propshaft.
Holding the prop of the body of the car is a bearing, held in a cradle, which allows the prop to spin freely.These two parts are balanced together at the factory, and it is ESSENTIAL that they go back together in exactly the same way. Before splitting a propshaft, use a white paint or correction fluid to mark the two halves at their joint, so that you can reassemble the prop in exactly the same way. Failing to do this will result in an imbalanced prop which will shake itself apart at high revs.An imbalanced prop is both useless and worthless.Make sure you mark the two halves first in case you separate the prop completely.This rubber cushion allows a certain degree of flex in the drivetrain, and without it the rattle of the prop would be insufferable.Depending on the model, the bearing fits around either the front or rear half of the propshaft.If the bearing is on the rear section (as in E30 M3 ), the bearing is tensioned toward the diff.It receives power from the propshaft and splits it to both wheels.While it may take a bit of explaining to know how it works, all you need to know is that it allows each wheel to spin at different speeds. This is really useful when it comes to corners, where the inside wheel needs to spin slower than the outer wheel, since it's travelling a shorter path. If it helps, think of Olympic sprinters on a track; the ones on the inner lane don't run so far as the runners in the outer lane, which is why they start further back on the straight. They also come in two sizes; Small and Medium case, with the bigger being fitted to the 325i.If they feel like they're joined together and you can't turn them in opposite directions then it's a LSD. Lower numbers mean good cruising speed and fuel economy, while high numbers mean great acceleration but noisy motorway driving. The ratio you use completely depends on the body style and engine.
Heavier cars like Cabriolets and Tourings will have slightly higher ratios to help them accelerate, while economy and power models like the 325e and M3 will have low ratios to make the best use of the engine.However, when fitting a differential from another BMW such as the E28, the output flanges from that diff will need to be replaced with E30 flanges to allow the drive shafts to be attached.These bolt to the output flanges at one end using six Allen-head bolts, and slot into the wheel hub at the other, secured by a 32mm nut. Although the shaft as a whole is a sturdy unit, these joints should not be pushed to their limits. Therefore, when removing the differential it is important to hang or support the driveshafts somehow. Allowing them to drop to the floor will damage the CV joints. Because most people think the clutch works through black magic, they always fear the worst.For more info, check out our list of clutch problems.A lot of people immediately jump to the conclusion that the rear oil seal for the gearbox has failed, which it may have, but the problem is far more likely to be the small selector shaft seal, which is directly above it.Removing the rear crossmember and letting the back of the box drop a little helps. Hook the seal out with a small screwdriver, and replace.This is caused by worn joints and bushes in the selector. Learn more about replacing the gear linkage.If that's your case, learn more about converting your car from Auto to Manual. The site may not work properly if you don't update your browser. If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit old reddit. Press J to jump to the feed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 5 Engine and manual transmission swap worth it? In my head I thought if I was to ever engine swap I would swap an M50 and maybe turbo it. But is this even worth it or would it be a better idea to just keep searching for a manual car.
It's also been repainted at one point so the engine bay doesn't match the rest of the car so maybe I'll strip it down and repaint the car at the same time. Thats getting deep money really quick though. The oily bits are easy and relatively cheap to swap, and the M50 swap has been covered ad nauseum on all the forums so it's a piece of cake to do. Fixing cheap spray jobs, however, is an absolute ballache that spirals out of control in both time and money. If I opened the hood of a car and saw a different colour to the rest of the bodywork, I'd close the hood immediately and walk away - it's the classic hallmark of cheap workmanship and you don't want to waste your time unfucking other people's shortcuts. Restore the car, little by little. Less money consuming option since you can take your time. I mean you can still drive the manual while you are doing small things like suspension, brakes, electrical, interior. Since you already have the suspension, brakes etc done. You can dial in the suspension and tweak it for the added frontal powertrain weight. But, at the end, do what you wanna do. No idea how much it would cost to have a shop to do it around here but if I'm able I always try to do it on my own first ha. What you’re looking for is out there, just seek it out. Might have to do minor rebuilds, seals and what not. But you might also have to do a driveshaft too for auto to manual swap. All rights reserved Back to top. All 11 digits of your part. For ex.: 31 12 1141717 (You will see the strut tension strut) Contact your local authorized car dealer to get exact information about parts and cars repair. By continuing to browse the site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.For more license information, please our head office. To start viewing messages,I've seen a few for sale around me, but a lot of them are either a convertible, automatic transmission, or both. Right now, I drive a 2004 Acura TL 6MT, and I love the way it feels.
I'd like to stay with a manual transmission for the sheer joy of driving, but all of the manual transmission e30 bmw's get bought really quickly around me (Nor Cal). With that said, there are a few automatic ones for sale. How bad are the automatic transmissions. Anybody have or have driven both? thanksIt is what my wife prefers to drive and it was what was available. The Auto is not very responsive and it hunts for 3 or 4th from 40-50 mph. Easy to drive though. It's my daily driver, so I prefer the auto. On my sports car I have a stick. Bottom line if you like and want a stick get one don't settle.Get a Manual if you can, but if you get a Auto get it for the right Price to do a swap.If youre after a daily driver, I recomend an auto..a manual is just stressful in traffic..and I have enough road rage to worry about..if youre after a racer however, get a manual However, when chosing a manul, knowing that you are purchasing a manual that may be about 20 years old..theres a very good chance that the car has been abused. You dont know how long its been driven in the red. The engine, clutch, transmission may not be very realiable. With an auto, the driver really cannot be stupid with it. Thanks to the computer, pretty much the only damage a driver can do with it is either crash it, or poor maintenance. Though my auto BMW has more HP than my auto mustang, the BMW does feel a tad slow. However, unlike the mustang, its transmission is a 1-2-3-D as opposed to most 1-2-Ds If you want the power and feeling of a manual, just shift it. It actually responds faster than most autos Ive done this with. Shifts just like a manual, just without a cluth pedal, and a lot smoother gear change (compared with how many manuals are driven) Final point and flames await: If you truely want a fast car, you wouldnt be interested in an e30 in the first place, auto or manual.I want something cheap, reliable, and fun, and the image of something Japanese isn't very professional.Case and point.
Look the OP drives a 6mt acura right now, he would regret buying an auto e30. They're sluggish off the line and tend to have more issues than manuals. It's not about which one is faster but which one is more enjoyable to drive. Let him test drive both head to head, it's safe to say he'll like the manual better.Not affiliated, but I do dig their style.An E30 is certainly more professional than a japanese car you can get for the same price. MR2, 240SX. don't get me wrong I'd love to drive them, but I dont' think it's the best idea at this time. I'd also love to keep my TL, but payments are too high and I don't feel like it's worth the payments. If I can get something just as fun but without the car payment and a lower insurance bill, then I'm game.You want it all E30's are all of those but looking professional in one. Maybe more presentable than something else in the same price range, I'll give you that. E30's are great cars, especially in a 5spd but they require constant attention. If you don't mind getting dirt under your fingernails than an e30 can be a very solid daily driver that's fun to drive. If you're a cheackbook mechanic, these little cars can become very expensive to maintain.You want it all E30's are all of those but looking professional in one. If you're a cheackbook mechanic, these little cars can become very expensive to maintain. I don't mind getting down and dirty, but like I said earlier my mechanical skills are not very good. I can change the oil, and I've troubleshot my gf's power steering and alternator problems. I could've replaced those too, but I didn't need to. I want to learn a lot more, though, and if I can find a decent e30, that'd be a perfect chance to learn. Then again, I rely on my car to get to work everyday, so maybe this isn't the best idea in the world. Do these cars have common problems that prevent it from being driven every day?
Especially if your driving in stop and go traffic like bay bridge metering lights or 101 or 880 at rush. I'm from nor cal also. I have two surgically repaired knees from MMA so driving a manual in stop and go is not the best for me. If it's just for a cheap dd then the auto should be fine especially in our kind of traffic.If you are buying a BMW, get a manual tranny - there is no other way about it. Autos will fail at 150-200k miles, manuals will run forever. A manual BMW is always more desirable, there are hardly any auto BMWs in europe, the cars were designed with a manual and were intended for use as manual cars. Selling BMWs I always get the same question - is it a manual. I never once had been asked whether it was an automatic. There was a massive problem with my old car. I bought it used it was an auto it has 130k miles on it, it was leaking everywhere. I Fixed a good portion of seals, took it to a shop and it was still leaking from the front input seal. I parted my old car mostly because of the tranny. I hate auto BMWs and will never ever get one again. As far as I know the autos were mostly used in US, and they are very rare and unnecessary in Europe. A 5-speed will last you forever, just replace seals and the clutch once in a while. This is mostly based on how I feel and my really unfortunate experiences with an auto BMW, but if you are buying a used BMW, it is easier to get one with an auto in bad shape than one with a good auto tranny. The E30s are old, finding one with few miles will be a very expensive and tedious process. If you dont care about learning to drive a manual, and dont have any specific conditions preventing you from doing so, driving in traffic is not a big deal, I dont know what is so hard about it. I have just started driving a manual car (318is) this year and I dont think anything of it. Just my.02 - I really hate automatics, so im biased.If you are buying a BMW, get a manual tranny - there is no other way about it.
I have just started driving a manual car (318is) this year and I dont think anything of it. Just my.02 - I really hate automatics, so im biased. The owner says it needs a new timing belt. Does anybody want to go check it out with me. It's in San Carlos at 7pm. I'm in San Mateo, btwThe owner says it needs a new timing belt. I'm in San Mateo, btw Might save you alot of hassle if you are not to mechanically inclined.Usually the one you buy is going to need a few things like hoses, timing belt to be reliable. As for the automatic vs. manual... is it even a question. Manual all the way.Might save you alot of hassle if you are not to mechanically inclined. I'm going to check it out myself and see how it drives. If I like it, I'll probably ask for a pre-buy inspection.Digital Point modules: Sphinx-based search. You'll find many of the parts available to service your BMW's transmission here. While internal transmission servicing and rebuilding should be done by professionals, there are a lot of things on the outside of the transmission that you can service or replace yourself. These include gearbox seals, o-rings, gaskets, automatic transmission filters, backup light switches, mounting bolts, flanges, collar nuts, screw plugs, Mechatronics, and more. Synthetic D4 ATF is suitable for use where Dexron III, Dexron II, or Mercon fluids are recommended. ATF D4 is similar to Red Line's MTL formula and can be used in many BMW manual transmissions where MTF or MTF-LT2 is called for. The D4 ATF provides significantly improved gear protection than most OEM oils. The balanced frictional characteristics provides smooth and consistent shifts for extended drain intervals. The superior stability compared to petroleum ATFs allows high-temperature operation without varnishing valves and clutches which leads to transmission failure. Features: Provides G-4 level gear protection (suitable for transmissions and transaxles, like the Corvette T-56). Provides smooth and consistent shifts.