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We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. Sketch at page top courtesy of Carson Dunlop. Lock, tape or tag circuit breaker or fuse so Failure to do so could result in Since usually our electric heaters are 240V and require two hot wires, it's common for an electrician to run conventional 12-2 NM plastic electrical cable or BX armored cable to the heater. The original source is cited at the end of the table. As you'll read below, for electric heater circuits the circuit sizing is performed assuming continuous operation. Heater Amps in this table is the maximum continuous electrical current loading, measured in amperes, that the electric heater will draw or create on the circuit. When the electrical current drawn on the heating circuit is equal to or less than the maximum circuit load permitted by wire size and circuit breaker rating, the circuit and breaker and heater have been properly matched. Conductors shall be sized to carry not less than the larger of 210.19(A)(1)(a) or (b). That is, a cord and plug portable electric heater is for supplemental and temporary heat; it is not intended to serve as the primary heat source in a building. General purpose receptacle outlets of 15- and 20-ampere ratings in dwellings are included in the general lighting-load calculations of 220.12. No additional load calculation is required for such outlets. The U.S. NEC Article 210.19 (Branch Circuit Conductor Sizing) and Article 220.14(I), (J), and (K) (load calculations for receptacle outlets) are used together by the electrician to determine the conductor sizing and overcurrent protection required. The standard load calculation for a duplex receptacle is 180 volt-amperes. Watch out: while aluminum wire may already be present in some older homes, because of a serious fire hazard, we do not recommend using aluminum electrical wire for electric heat nor for other general use circuits in buildings.Sketches courtesy of Carson Dunlop.
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Circulating air both helps the heat to enter the occupied space and it also helps prevent the curtain from becoming too hot. The best way to check for proper voltage is by using a voltmeter, testing between supply line 1 and 2. 240 and 120 Volt heaters are not interchangeable. Connecting a 240 Volt heater to a 120 Volt circuit will reduce the wattage 75 making the heater feel barely warm. Connecting a 120 Volt heater to a 240 Volt circuit will destroy the heater, could cause fire damage, personal injury or death, and, voids all warranties. - King Electric, cited below. The model number is on a label or sticker beneath the grill on a wall heater or at the lower left end of a Cadet baseboard heater. Informative and well-focused. Great work. Regards from Max Stout Fundamentals of Gas Appliance Venting and Ventilation, 1985, American Gas Association Laboratories, Engineering Services Department. American Gas Association, 1515 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, VA 22209.Macmillan Publishing Co., NY Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10 discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Or choose the The HOME REFERENCE eBook for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones. Special Offer: For a 5 discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
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In some climates, baseboard heating can provide all the heat required by a home, but it is more common for baseboard heating to provide supplemental heat for spaces where the central HVAC system is insufficient to the task. For example, in a basement or attic room conversion, it can be hard to extend the central forced-air heating system to heat the space, and electric baseboard heaters offer an easy way to serve those areas.Electricians generally install 240-volt heaters, since they use lower amperage and are more energy-efficient than 120-volt heaters. Adding a 240-volt baseboard heater usually requires a new 20- or 30-amp double-pole circuit breaker and new circuit wiring to supply one or more heater units. This is a dedicated circuit that serves only the heater(s).DIYers should have considerable wiring experience before attempting this project, since it involves running electrical cables and installing and connecting a new circuit breaker in the main service panel. The rating or heating capacity of a baseboard heater is commonly measured in wattage, which is governed by the length of the heater. A common rule of thumb is to provide 10 watts of heat for every square foot of space in the room, though this may vary somewhat depending on the configuration of the room and details such as ceiling height, wall insulation, number of windows, and other factors.A 240-volt 24-inch heater generally is rated for about 350 watts (sufficient for a small bathroom), while a 96-inch heater is rated for 2,000 to 2,500 watts (sufficient for a 200- to 250-square-foot space). You can also meet heating needs with two or more heaters that combine to provide sufficient heating.The Btu rating can be helpful when comparing electric heater size to other types of heaters or heating equipment.Building codes do not allow baseboard heaters to be installed beneath wall outlets, and they require a minimum of 1 inch of air space under the unit for the convective airflow to work properly.
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They also should have at least 12 inches of clearance from window coverings and furniture.They are typically mounted at the same height as wall switches. Some baseboard heaters have thermostat units built into the heaters and require no wall thermostat.Cutting the hole for the box usually can be done with a simple drywall saw.A 20-amp circuit can safely provide 3,800 watts of power, while a 30-amp circuit is suitable for up to 5,700 watts. The standard circuit cable for 20-amp circuits is 12-gauge cable; 30-amp circuits need 10-gauge cable. The circuit cable typically is a two-wire cable with ground, where both the black and white wires serve as hot wires.At the heater location, no wall box is generally required, since the wire connection panel on the heater serves as an approved box.Tighten the cable clamp onto the cable.Use a torpedo level to level the unit if it is a type that is not floor-mounted. ( Note: If you have a floor-mounted unit, you may have to cut out the baseboard where the heater goes in to fit the unit against the wall.)Following the manufacturer instructions, disconnect the wire connector (wire nut) that holds the connection together.Note that in a standard 240-volt circuit, both the black and white wire serve as hot wires, since there is no neutral wire in this kind of circuit. Mark the white wire with a band of black electrical tape to indicate that it is a hot wire.Install the connection panel cover.If the wall box is metal, it also should be grounded by means of a grounding pigtail wire.This involves first shutting off the main breaker and opening up the panel. Then, you connect the new circuit's ground wire to the panel's grounding bar, and connect the black and white circuit wires to the screw terminal connections on the circuit breaker, then snap the circuit breaker into an empty slot in the service panel. Finish by closing up the panel and turning on the main breaker.
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You must turn off the main breaker before working in the panel, but even with the main breaker off, there are elements in the panel that carry deadly current at all times. Never work inside a panel if you are not familiar with all of its parts and how to avoid shock. Then turn the thermostat off and make sure the heater shuts off. Not only are they effective but they're so subtle and provide an even flow of heat most people have come to appreciate. Some of the benefits include: There are two brands that we carry requiring hardwire installation, Cadet and QMark. First, we'll review Cadet. The seam at the junction of the wall and floor behind the heater should be caulked to prevent dust from being drawn into the room. Place it either under a window, along an outside wall, or as close as possible to an outside door. Do not install heater beneath an electrical outlet. Do not allow the carpet to block lower air intake located 1 inch from the bottom. Be sure it is clear of all obstructions and that there is a 12 inch clearance between the heater and drapes. It can be wired to the right or to the left of the unit. You must locate supply wires before mounting the heater. For example, 120V heater to a 120V power supply. They must go into at least two wall studs. The back of the heater has star punch dimples that allow nails or screw to pierce the sheet metal. Both sides of the heater include a grounding screw. If wiring on the left, disconnect factory connector A. If wiring on the right, disconnect factory connector B. Only disconnect one factory connector. Leave the red wire disconnected and cap loose end with an approved wire connector, or wrap loose end with electrical tape. Below are some instructions on how to setup your thermostat. Do not install heater against vinyl wallpaper, paperboard, or low-density fiberboard surface. For best results, place the heater under a window. If need be, remove molding.The heater may sit directly on any floor surface, including carpet.
Be sure the heater is clear of all obstructions and that there is a 6 inch clearance between the heater and drapes. Set the heater aside and drill an appropriately sized hole into the wall or floor. The baseboard heater can be wired to the left or the right. Remove the left or right junction box end cap by removing the screw at the end of the heater and sliding the cap off. For example, 120V heater to a 120V power supply. Pull the bottom of the cover outward and lift the top of the cover off the junction box. Remove the top of the cover off the center bracket and off the immediate supports. If you're moving the wires through the knockout, be sure to use a cable connector and leave 6-8 inches of wire for heater connection.You can use a stud finder to do this. Drill punch or use a nail driver to put holes through the back enclosure at stud locations. The heater includes nail point marks showing correct locations for mounting holes. Rotate the cover downward, pushing the bottom corners inward. Install two screws through the cover into the junction boxes. Be sure the bottom of the cover connects to each bottom support bracket. I got the idea to make YouTube videos after searching for a video Read More When it comes to heating your Read More. Our payment security system encrypts your information during transmission. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Please try again.Please try again.Easy to install and use.Compatible with baseboards. Can control up to 5,280 Watts.Register a free business account Please try your search again later.The YCT410B1000's versatility is only matched by its strength to hold up to an impressive 5,2800W.It has a simple dial-type mechanical control and is UL- and csa listed for safety.Click here to make a request to customer service.To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average.
Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. NWWI. 4.0 out of 5 stars Shop has a 5000 watt heater same thing all the way up to get 70f. They do work if you never want to go over 70f and want constant on and off. Is now a very accurate thermostat.The one in the shop has not been drilled yet and is still required to set at max to get 70f. Sometimes it is off by 15f degrees, setting at 60 will get me 45f. Will update when shop thermostat has been drilled. Will upload pictures to show the drilling if it works there also. Update 5-10-17 Added 1 more star. Have now been using all winter with the mods.I shut of power and pulled it out and discovered it was burnt and melted. Also partially melted the electric box in the wall. If I wasn't home to catch this I would be living in a hotel. Also my wife and kids were upstairs and never smelt of suspected anything. Very dangerous. Made in mexico not usa. Also never held temp well when it did work. About 2 of the 6 installed seem to hold an ok temperature level. Replacing all 6 with a different brand. Honeywell also had past recalls of the switch sticking causing the thermostat to over heat. Maybe they should include this one. Money in the garbage thanks honeywell for wasting my time, money, and placing my family and the rest of our townhouse community danger. Great!This product comes in a nice little box and is packed well. It looks basic and works, sort of like it should.l --- This thermostat is is questionably accurate and I will explain why for keeping the room warm, it will do this, in a acceptable manner but if you require accurate temperatures, this may not be your target. I will say, with your full knowledge of the following, it may be able to do just that. With my 1500 watt heater, I found the box where the contacts are, will heat up. This affects the thermal temperature control.
The thermal sensor feels that heat from the switch and will falsely open or shut down the heater even though it has not attained the proper temperature. My test was done with NO ELECTRICAL BOX, the thermostat was propped up with the ventilation slots open to the air. The rear of the thermostat was open to the air. The highest I could get the room temp was 73, this is with the thermostat set at MAX TEMPERATURE. If you try to control a heater at the recommended 5280 watts, the heat in the thermostat will be higher and the temperature level will be lower. --- The only way you will be able to get around this heat problem would be to add a relay or a solid state relay and have the thermostat control the relay. This takes the load off of the thermostat, which takes the heat away and allows the thermostat to be more accurate. -- In conclusion, this thermostat will work, it won't be accurate and it does get warm to hot. My use was with the thermostat NOT installed in a enclosure so it had free air for cooling and was still affected by the warmth generated inside the thermostat switch. Max temp I could attain was 73 with the thermostat dialed at full or max heat. The thermostat was switching off as you can hear the click so the switch was being thermally actuated. This max temperature varies so the heat was definately affecting the thermal operation. Do not install above a heater as the warm air from the heater will affect its ability to sense ambient air temps. I am lead to believe that this thermostat is meant to be installed in a baseboard heater unit. The Temperature at floor level is cooler and this difference in air temp may allow more approving results. I had this in one position and it wouldn't work until I moved the wires. Note that the wires are not attached by screws, more like a spot weld so the connection is not likely to fail. If you have an operation problem, check the thermostat installation.
EDIT 10-22-2018 I have done further research on this thermostat and now have been able to get good temperature control. The weakness of this thermostat is the temperature control device. It will not run the current (power) through without creating heat. When it creates heat, if makes the thermo device open prematurely. I use my thermostat to run a 1500 watt heater. The thermostat is hugely unable to perform this task by itself as explained above. With all the load on the SSRelay, the thermostat no longer has any load across the thermo unit to make it prematurely heat up and open the contacts. With the load now switched across the SS RELAY, I am getting more heat out of the heater, it is staying on until the room actually warms up then switches off as required. In short, unless you are using this thermostat for a very light load, it will not work properly for large loads UNLESS you add a relay or solid state relay to handle the heavy current from your heater device. With the result I saw with the addition of the SS Relay, I STRONGLY suggest this addition to this particular thermostat. I am not associated with the seller and did not receive any monies or product for my review 180703 1529They are not precision control items but there are temperature range stops under the cover to control the minimum and maximum temperature settings that take some playing around with to get it to be a bit more accurate. I have a total electric home and have this or the Cadet in every room and used them extensively when I was an electrician. The temp ranges on this can be less than precise and sometimes they stick and you need to move the dial a bit. However, there are adjustments you can make to help correct that and I haven’t seen a reviewer who is downgrading it regarding accuracy mention they tried fiddling with those adjustments.
For the price, I have no complaints and don’t expect it to keep a room within a 1-2 degree range and if that’s what you expect of it you’ll see a significant increase in electric usage as it cycles more frequently but you really should be looking at a higher end thermostat. Over time, these will fail so when you have a lot of them replacing one at about 20-bucks doesn’t break the back like a higher priced unit. The downside is that you need a deep box to handle the wiring and jamming all of it into a shallow box is pretty much impossible.I replaced an old single pole thermostat that was kicking on in the winter because the room got a little too cold, thereby wasting energy when I don't need to heat the room. Surprisingly, the markings are in F and not C, even though this is being sold on Amazon.ca. One star off for that, but they did post the correct picture of the product. Not a big deal.Other than that I am sure the unit works fine.looks pretty standard and straight forward.Otherwise good. Controls 5000w garage heater without issue.Probably out 5 degreesIn order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. It's economical, yet rugged. Use this option to replace virtually any two-wire or four-wire line voltage wall-mounted electric heating thermostat. Use the Find A Pro link below to locate one in your area. Find an authorized professional near you to complete your installation. Use the Find A Pro link below to locate one in your area. We are working on it. Be on the lookout for emails to start arriving in your inbox with the latest on product information, deals and more. Do not use it in block air intakes or exhaust in any areas where gasoline, paint, or flam- manner. Page 3 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1. All electrical work and materials must comply with the National Electric Code (NEC), the Occupational Safety and Health Act (OSHA), and all state and local codes. 2. Use copper conductors only.
3. Do not install below an electrical receptacle. 4. Do not install the heater against combustible low-density cellulose fiberboard. 5. A heater has hot and arcing or sparking parts inside. For 120 volt baseboard wiring you will have 1 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground. When complete, proceed to OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS below. If you’re wiring a WALL thermostat for your heater, FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW and the diagrams in Figures 10 or 11, depending on which side you’re wiring. Page 6 MAINTAINING YOUR HEATER Clean heater at least every 24 months or as required. 1. It is important that you verify power has been turned off and the element is cool. 2. Remove cover. 3. Wash cover with hot soapy water and dry. 4. Use a hair dryer, or vacuum on blow cycle, to blow debris through the element (do not touch element). 5. Vacuum area without touching the element. 6. Replace cover. 7. Turn power back on at the main disconnect panel. We have answers Expert advice Read blog articles that offer expert advice Resources and documents View our guides, specsheets and more Maestro server status View the Maestro server status. Please ensure that you comply with local electrical codes and regulations. Improper installation can lead to device failure and even cause a fire. Damage to thermostat due to improper installation is not covered under warranty. Secure with screw. If front is not secured with screw(s), conduit or armored cable should be used in blank sections and corner sections. To ensure this, use either: Do Not place heater below electrical receptacle. Do Not install heater against vinyl covered surfaces or foam surfaces. DO NOT install heater on paper or fabric covered surfaces. To avoid burns, do not let bare skin come in contact with hot surfaces. Keep combustible materials, such as furniture, pillows, bedding, paper, clothes and curtains away from heater. Verify that the electrical supply wires are the same voltage as the heaters.
All electrical work and materials must comply with the National Electric Code (NEC), the Occupational Safety And Health Act (OSHA) and all state and local codes. Do not place heater below electrical receptacle. Do not install heater against vinyl covered or foam surfaces. Do not install heater on paper or fabric covered surfaces.Failure to do so could result in serious electrical shock, burns, or possible death. To ensure this either: If the room temperature is too high, rotate the shaft counter-clockwise. If the room temperature is too low rotate the shaft clockwise until a comfortable temperature is achieved. Let the room temperature stabilize after each setting change. This is caused by activating the internal heater components for the first time and should not occur again. The heater should be cleaned regularly for maximum efficiency. A vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment can be used for cleaning. The finish of the heater can be cleaned with a slightly damp rag. Keep electrical cords, drapes, rugs and other furnishings away from the heater.Rugs can be placed up to the heater, provided that they are not of a thickness that would block the air in-take at the bottom of the heater. If screws were used to hold the front cover or end caps, be sure to replace them. This warranty does not apply to damage from accident, misuse, or alteration; nor where the connected voltage is more than 5 above the nameplate voltage, nor to equipment improperly installed or wired or maintained to violation of the instruction sheet. This warranty is valid only in the fifty states of the United States. No other written or oral warranty applies. No employee, agent, dealer or other person is authorized to give any warranties on behalf of Design Architectural Heating. The customer shall be responsible for all costs incurred in the removal or re-installation and shipping of the product for repairs.
Within the limitations of this Warranty, inoperative units should be returned to the nearest Design Architectural Heating factory, and we will repair or replace, at our option at no charge to you with return freight paid by Design Architectural Heating. It is agreed that such a repair or replacement is the exclusive remedy available from Design Architectural Heating and that Design Architectural Heating IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGES OF ANY KIND, INCLUDING INCIDENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGE. Some states do not allow the exclusive or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above exclusion or limitation may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state. Merchandise returned to the factory must be accompanied by a return authorization and service identification tag. When requesting authorization, include all catalog numbers shown on the product. Register Now Make sure to connect the ground to the thermostat or wiring box, if available. Typically, this is marked “L1” or “Line.” Replace the junction box cover When the room reaches comfort level, turn the knob counter-clockwise until a slight click is heard. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience. Our sub-zero winters require us to bundle up in cozy sweaters, don our fuzziest slippers, keep a fire going (if we’re lucky enough to have a fireplace), and crank up the heat. They’re usually constructed of aluminium and house a metal heating element within. That means you can turn on the baseboard heaters in the rooms you plan on using and save on heating costs by lowering the settings —or turning them off entirely—in your empty rooms. The same theory applies to those old school radiant heaters and even furnace vents. You should calculate 10 watts per square foot of room area, according to The Spruce, a home DIY website.
You’ll also have to install a cable from the electrical service panel in your home to the baseboard heater. Again, this should be done by a professional. You set each one to the heat you desire for that room. If you have a baseboard heater in the hallway of your apartment, you can set it to a lower level to save on the high cost of electricity. Make sure you regularly dust the outside casing of your baseboard heaters to keep them free of dust and debris with a vacuum. While dust generally doesn’t pose any danger, it can cause an unpleasant burning odour and reduce their energy efficiency. If left on too long, there’s an outside chance, it could spark a fire. The front panel of your unit likely pops off, giving you access to the inside. You want to make sure no electricity is running through it while poking around. Make it part of your summer or fall maintenance checklist. Because of the heat created by the heater, some paints may crack or bubble with time. When you do paint your baseboard heaters, make sure to use heat-resistant paint. As for the heater, shop around for the best deal and research the ideal heaters for your situation and budget. In Ontario, those energy costs are twice as much. If you’re running multiple heaters, this could add up to hundreds of dollars a month. If you’re renting, and paying utilities, this could significantly raise the cost of rent for the winter months. It’s colder, but your pipes won’t freeze. Turn them back up when you get home and layer with blankets when you turn them back down before going to bed. First consider a sweater rather than going from 20 to 22 degrees. They don’t heat up any faster, you’ll just burn more money because you’ll likely forget to turn them back down after you’ve hit the comfort mark. Once you set it, forget it, unless it’s too cold, then leave it at a higher temperature. The problem is it maintains that higher heat even when you’re not at home.
A centralized smart thermostat can save you hundreds of dollars because it knows when you’re away and when you’re expected home. Or better yet, consider installing radiant floor heating or a ductless heat pump powered by gas and saving you hundreds of dollars. Any unit over 50 years old may impact your ability to insure your home. That’s because older units are more prone to malfunctioning and, as we know, a heater that stops working during the winter could lead to frozen and burst water pipes. If a pipe bursts, home insurance will typically cover it. Check the flood insurance details on your policy though if you’re concerned. And be sure to tell them the truth. A simple white lie could be the difference between a claim approval or a denial. A good rule of thumb is to ensure there is at least 12 inches of clearance between any dangling curtains and your baseboard heaters. You don’t want a fire breaking out. They can be used independently, meaning you can save on electricity by only running the ones you need in the rooms you plan on using. Contact us for more information. You can unsubscribe at any time. Assumable Mortgages This is often called group life insurance and doesn’t require underwriting. But is this life insurance good enough for you? He found himself unemployed, homeless, and with an alcohol addiction. In 1933, five of his acquaintances conspired to kill him. Temperature control is further boosted with a dual diaphragm that actively senses. The Honeywell CT410B1017 Manual 4 Wire Thermostat's versatility is only matched by its strength to hold up to an impressive 5,280 W. All of these additions and the thermostat's particularly easy on the eyes design make this the ideal thermostat to utilize in a host of applicable settings. The design is economical, yet rugged. Use this manual thermostat to replace virtually any two-wire or four-wire line voltage wall-mounted electric heating thermostat. Ordering was easy and customer service was great.