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For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Running perfect the last two years. Riding today. hit a wake got sideways. I'm half on half off the ski.Replaced it. Reconnect the negative terminal on the battery (it arcs.) replace 15AMP in MPEM. Double chirps. Starts fine. Shut it off. Remove lanyard from post.I can get it to start once and run (so it isn't MPEM otherwise it wouldn't even validate my lanyard).Either blows the 15AMP in the MPEM or the 15 AMP in the front electrical box. I'm out of fuses. Any ideas? Thanks. I have pictures if anyone is interested.I am working on a 1998 GTX limited with the same problem exactly. Please let me know what you find and I will do the same. I have had a similar problem with my 1999 GSX and it was the stator yellow wires being grounded out. Nee to inpsect the conditions of the cables and grounds. The grounds at the coil, inside the rear ebox.I would like to know the out come I have the same problem on two Xp's Hi I was wondering if you had had any luck with the regulator as we have an xp 1999 model that has done exactly the same thing literally word for word and we are at a loss as to what is is.I would be interested to know if anything you have tried has worked to fix the problem Just finished fabricating my own exhaust that comes out the rear where the jet unit is as the plastic stock one broke. Any who I took it for a spin to test it and was running great, my neighbor jumped on and went for a spin with my brother who has a 2000XPL, anyway almost an hour later they are coming back and my brother is towing my neighbor and my ski. They got back and my neighbor said he was riding and it just died. So on the spot we started investigating what the issue is, finally found the 15amp fuse in the electrical box top right location of the hull and it was blown.
http://www.fkhd.cz/data/fiat-multipla-service-manual-download.xml
So went and got a pack of 15amp fuses and replaced the faulty fuse. Placed the lanyard back on, got 2 beeps and tried to start it and it starts for a split second and dies, so checked fuse again and its blown, so replaced fuse again and tried starting again this time it didn't even start just cranks but nothing happens. So we started tracing the wiring and disconnecting everything from the electrical box (top right) to find what and where the short was coming from, found out it was blowing from something either inside the magneto cover or the plug on the magneto cover. Hooked up the lanyard and first pop and it started. Taking it out tomorrow to test how it goes. But yes be sure to test where its blowing from, or just take the stator out and inspect. Hope that helps, sorry no one replied to you I just joined today. But it shouldn't take too long to find out whats causing it. Its either your stator or its shorting somewhere close by. Let me know how it goes! I would be interested to know if anything you have tried has worked to fix the problemThis 2 stroke motor is the only one that Rotax made with the reeds instead of the rotor plate. It's also the only one with a magneto cooler supplied by the cooling water system. If your having problems blowing the 15 amp fuse, the problem is metal shavings that has grounded out your magneto. This is a bad flaw with all the 951 motors. There is a test you can do checking continuity from the connector. If you have a shop manual, you can find it in there. The test is too long and time consuming to type in here now. Its also in the forum, in a different thread, because I know I've wrote about this problem before. When you do determine it is grounded, you'll need to remove it and clean all the metal shavings. These shavings are coming from the starter gear assembly (or as some refer to as a bendix). As for the rest, you are correct. I actually am building a tool to test the stators.
http://www.uniquetile.co.uk/userfiles/fiat-multipla-user-s-manual.xml
My '02 XP would kill the battery after a few hours of running. If you don't have the manual, or the ability to test, or a friendly dealer: there is one quick test to determine if your charging system is working, but only if you can get the engine running. If you can't you need the static test as outlined in the manual: Engine runs test: 1. take voltmeter to battery with ski off.The resistance should be between 0.1 to 1.0 ohm. 4. Place either meter lead into the remaining YELLOW wire and note the resistance (same as step no. 3). If the readings are out of specification, the stator will need to be replaced. NOTE: There should be no continuity (infinity) between the stator insulated coils and ground. The obtained value should be between 45 and 70 Vac. 6. If the stator is out of specification, replace it. I'll get around to it if I ever need to test a charging system again. I can just plug the connector in and. ta-da. actually might come in handy for the spare engine I'm building. I can test the stator when I'm done. Anyway, anyone with a DI ski, your issues can be similar, but the DIs also use a more powerful charging system, so don't follow these specs.It's from a wrecked '98 GTX LTD.If you end up needing a MPEM I think I know where to get one. I only had to buy a '02 exhaust manifold, cover, and oil pump.Yea I just purchased a new after market stator, runs fine. Went out for a good 5-6 ride couple days ago, I found out what blew the stator. The foreign piece of metal I found inside the magneto cover was from a chipped tooth from the Bendix gear. Let me rephrase that 2 chipped teeth. How do I know this? Because once I replaced the stator and took it for the 5-6 ride I fell off at one stage and when I got back on the saddle it wouldn't start. I could hear that the electric starter motor would spin but the bendix was not engaging.
http://gbb.global/blog/dell-m620-hardware-manual
So I took it apart again last night and I found that the Bendix has seized and is was not being thrown out by inertia when the starter motor is cranked. I get it back this Saturday, once its back I have to whack the carbs back on, the exhaust and flame arresters and connected everything back up and it should be ready to go for a test run again. Once all this is done I just need to replace the wear ring and I'm good to go. If you have any wear rings let me know how much you want for one. Cheers in advance The aftermarket ones lack the quality control. Here are a few photos depicting where the bendix has had 2 of its teeth break off, the small piece that came off the gear is what shorted my stator which in turn kept blowing the 15amp fuse. After replacing the stator the ski ran fine for approximately 4-6 hours and then the starter would not start the engine, all you would hear is the motor winding over but not engaging and this was due to the bendix finally failing and ceasing. So if your ski is blowing the 15amp fuse, check your stator.Typically the aftermarket ones are the ones that chip and break.but The OEMs can too. Most typically the little square parts get loose.they are inside as you spin the gear out. There are 3 of them in there and if you see one missing find it and replace the bendix. That is the most common failure.and those get up in the stator and completely destroy it. I have also seen it break the ground wire in there and give the 12v low on the gauge. We put an external rectifier bypass kit in it and it turned the light off.for about 5 tanks of gas.then the MPEM died. I took the bendix apart and the three counter weights your referring to inside are all intact and look good, the retaining spring that keeps them together is also in good condition. Not sure if the bendix I removed is OEM or not but the one I purchased is after market and looks to be better quality than the one removed. The reason it failed was because the ball bearings inside are shot.
So in other words the bendix gear that engages the flywheel gets stuck and does not fly out while the starter motor is spinning the bendix. Apparently, there are many, many of us with 951 stator problems. When we pulled the cover on this 98 xpl, the tips of the coils were covered with black carbon. 9 of the coils had blackened from overheating. That must be a dead short to fry like that. Obviously, we'll change the stator. What else should really be checked thoroughly before hooking up battery current?? We don't want to fry a new stator for the sake of experimenting. We're very open to suggestions, especially how to check the mpem for damage. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. First, the 5 amp fuse in the EFEM blows as soon as I connect the battery. If I put another fuse in, it blows again. Then, even if I bypass the starter switch and hook up the battery direct to the starter, it does maybe a quarter turn and sounds like it cannot turn. The battery is brand new. The engine had good compression and I can turn it by hand, so not sure why the engine will not turn over when going direct to battery. To me it appears like two issues, but not sure if the fuse problem is related to the engine not turning iver. Here is a video of what the engine sounds like when hooking the battery directly to the starter. It's either been hooked backwards on the battery.But lets get back to that. 3) Since it's only cranking a partial rotation.Make sure nothing is in there. (water, oil, fuel) Finally.I pulled the plugs and ran the battery directly to the starter. The engine turned over. The engine was not full of any fluids. Here is a short link of what the engine did without the plugs. I then put the plugs back in and tried to turn the engine over again with the battery hooked directly to the starter. I got the same response as before with the engine doing maybe a quarter turn (See video link from first post).
Looks to me like the battery is not providing enough power for this jetski. Is there anything else this could be. I still have the problem with the 5 amp fuse blowing. Put a meter on the battery, and watch the voltage when you crank. It should stay up above 10.5v. If it falls off quick.If the voltage stays up.You have to either replace the MPEM, or cut into it, and replace the main diode. (not an easy task, but can be done) But, even when you get into the MPEM.The multimeter never dropped below 11.5 volts. I did this for about 10 seconds. I could feel afterwards that the wires were a little warm. I then hooked up the battery to the normal wires. I also put in a new 5amp fuse. As soon as I connect the battery wire, the 5amp fuse blows. This is without even hooking the lanyard up. Could a bad starter cause this to happen. I would think so as the starter solenoid should be open until I put on the lanyard and hit thr start button. I have a new MPEM device, but the wire colors do not match the colors on the OEM MPEM, so I am lost on how to match them up properly. I do have the wiring diagram for the new MPEM device, but do not have wiring diagram for the wires coming from the machine. If I had that diagram I should be able to install the new device. Still would like to run any other tests to see if I can narrow this down. First, that clicking sounded like my Gsi, 97. Turned out that the starter solenoid was bad. Some of the earlier versions of this had a metal casing that would allow water in and cause heck and not give enough ompf to start. We replaced ours and it worked fine. A new model solenoid is almost all plastic now. We also had a 5 fuse blow over and over. Ours turned out to be a short in the Vts. We unplugged it and no more fuse pops ( we tore into our mpem for that diode and that was fine) I looked up specs on your model and I believe it does not have a Vts. Some where you have a short. A dead give away since you instantly blow the fuse hooking up the battery.
Go over each wire in your box. Our short was in the Vts motor, rusted out like many others doo's. I hope things work out for you. The 5 amp fuse did not blow this time. As soon as I hooked the small red wire back up to the Solenoid; the 5 amo fuse blew. I then took off the starter. Here is a video of running the battery straight to the starter. It appears to be sparking on the terminal and the metal teeth (bendix) appears to drop down rather quickly, making me think there is something wrong with the starter. To me it looks like there is a short in the starter that is causing the 5 amp fuse to blow as soon as the battery is hooked up. Any other potential issues based on this? I think the sparking is due to a poor connection. If you were able to used a battery cable for example I don't think it would spark. With the clamp, there are teeth touching the threaded post. Not going to be a great connection. After checking the above, try another known good MPEM if ya have one. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I have never owned a pwc of any kind before but have rebuilt and wired many dirtbikes atvs and such.OK heres what I got. '92 sp 580 something cc motor engine is white. I have a good spin on the starter but no fire. I have checked with a test light and I am getting power into the black ignition box, but the wire coming out is not feeding the coils with any power. I replaced the two fuses on top to be sure, and the terminals inside do have juice. While the fuses were out I checked.I have gas and oil. the rip cord is attached to the ignition button.I can pull the box off the '93 unless you think for some reason it won't work.I'm not trying to ramble but I just wanna get you enough info to get some good help. thanks I know some of you are guru's I've read other posts If it doesn't, the stator or coil are the places to look.
Also, if it does start with that unplugged, be prepared to kill with the choke since the stop and lanyard buttons are bypassed A not fully charged battery. Thats the four to diagnose. Your question was can you switch electric moduls. No you cannot. The modules are specifically designed for the hardware each ski uses.You have two power souces, a stator magnito that creates ac power that is sent to the rectifier in the BOX to be changed into dc current, and is what recharges the battery after it directs current to the multi purpose electric module. The Electric Module (mpem) funtions unless an open circuit occurrs. This can happen if you spiked a part (an electrical spike) usually occures from jump starting from a running vehicle (alternator mega-amps), OR a broken wire, OR the ground has become faulty. The module ground is at the stator, behind the flywheel. The starter gets a ground direct in order for it to revolve the engine. A bad burn in the spark plug boot, can cause the open circuit to the ground (spark plug). If you have a multi meter, you can olm out individule parts to ensure they are in working order, then go to the next part. This is when these manuals really help as to step by step, walk you thru these check procedures. You can get alot of info from Dominics website Seadoosouce.com for olm values of your mpem ect. I suspect you are not getting ground to your box, as it can go bad and corrode just from moisture, especially as the ski was closed up as it sat and had no ventilation, like the seat off it, as stored. When it won't turn over, the ground cable from the battery is notorious for corrosion at the bolt. It can be from owner error, As I bought a 1993 sp and couldn't start it, as I pushed the handle bar button. Didn't realize it was the STOP button, the start is next to the safty lanyard switch. Your battery has to have a charge of app. 12.5 volts, or the mpem ON-timer will not let the mpem function.
(after 33 secunds, if the motor is not started, it turns ignition off). Hopefully you have a bad ground. I hope I was some help so you can start checking the switches, ect. Next the motor cranks over just fine.As far as switching MPEM's they are identical bikes exactly.I can connect my lanyard and crank the engine with the starter button.I will check more grounds and cable connections but my past history with cdi boxes and such is giving me a hunch this thing is bad.I mean as far as safety switches and things?I just wanna make sure you don't have to put one hand on your head and pat your knee or anything to start this thing up. As for just running the engine, YES the other module would run either engine, as the timer inside the module ROM is calibrated the same. A Sea-Doo repair manual, also termed Sea-Doo shop manual or Sea-Doo factory service manual (FSM), is a digitally delivered book of repair instructions that shows you how to fix the jet-propelled watercraft back to working order. This is especially true if you do not plan on repairing the recreational watercraft yourself, but having someone else do the work for you. However, having a repair manual around can be quite useful in different situations that you might face while operating your personal watercraft (PWC). In addition, it provides procedures for inspection and general servicing or maintenance of the motor and components. You may find that you can do the maintenance yourself and save the money normally spent to have a mechanic do the work. Recognizing the warning signs and inspecting the area where it comes may save you a considerable amount of money when it comes to repairs. After all, a mechanic will charge far less to replace a part that is wearing out compared to repairing the entire engine. So, having the manual around will help you identify and locate potential areas of concern before they lead to an engine breakdown.
Instead of paying a mechanic to do the job, you can often replace some parts or make the necessary adjustments yourself. This helps you to save money while broadening your understanding of the vehicle itself. While major repairs should be left to mechanics or those who have considerable experience, the manual will help you make minor repairs to keep the engine going. The manual will also instruct you on the type of tools needed to make basic repairs and provide guidance to any questions you have about taking care of the motor, type of fuel needed, and any additional materials needed to ensure that it runs smoothly. I need 1999 GSX limited shop manual. Which manual do i need and do you have that one. Access the information and tools you need to get the most out of your vehicle. Access the information and tools you need to get the most out of your vehicle. Please contact Customer Support for assistance. No two are alike. They look like this: KAW46436J697. The exact location for these numbers in your particular model is illustrated in your owner's manual near the front of the book. They also appear on your registration documents. Invalid fields exist in below form. Jet Ski Gear I’ve created a list of the most common reasons why your Jet Ski won’t start and what you can do to fix the issue. If you don’t know what you’re doing, please have your local dealer look at it for you. Even if you charged the battery or it’s a new battery, it still can be the battery causing the jet ski to not start. Even if you think the battery is good, check the battery. We talk more below about how to check the battery. A weak battery will need to be charged. Also, you need to let the battery charge for hours, or overnight to get it to be fully charged. To keep the battery from dying all the time I highly suggest getting a Solar panel like this one (Amazon Link Ad). Just hang the solar panel off to the side when you’re not using the jet ski.
Your local dealer can help you find the correct battery for your machine. Also, you know the starter relay is bad is when you press the start button multiple times before the jet ski will finally start. There is no special procedure for starting a jet ski, and if you have to do something very similar, you need a new starter relay. The way you determine if the starter relay is bad or if the battery is bad is by the clicks. A bad battery will cause the starter relay to make multiple quick clicks, while a bad relay will do only one click when you press the start button. For some model Jet Ski’s, I highly recommend letting the dealer install them as some can be very painful to install. It’s only a couple of wires, but the location of the relay can be very difficult to get to, and having the dealer do it could be worth it. There have been plenty of times where the battery charger says the battery is charged and ready to go, but when I put a load tester on the battery, it was a different story. The next thing in line is the Starter, and it could have gone bad. It’s not common for the Starter to fail, but the starter relay and battery will fail eventually because of the stress they go through (they’re wear-and-tear items). If the problems are beyond the battery and starter relay, then something is going on beyond your control. Your local dealer can hook the machine up to the computer to see what is going on and what needs to be fixed. A stick, rock, or even rope can get in there and wedge itself in keeping the pump and also the engine from spinning over. Usually, when you suck something up, you notice it, but maybe a friend returns the machine and doesn’t tell you about it, and this would lead you to this conclusion. In rare occasions, the key or other electronic parts could be the reason why your jet ski won’t start. If your jet ski clicks once when you hit the start button then it’s more than likely the starter relay.
If you have to press the start button multiple times or put the key on and off before the jet ski starts then it’s a bad starter relay. If your jet ski clicks multiple times when you hit the start button then it’s a weak or dead battery. If you’ve put a new battery in your jet ski and it still won’t start then it could be that the new battery is dead and needs to be load tested. Never go off on what a voltmeter says but instead what a load tester says when checking if a battery is good or not. You can get load testers at many stores but most auto parts stores will have a load tester you can use for free. If your new battery load test fine and the watercraft still won’t start then it could be bad grounds or other electrical issues. Starter motor, battery, spark plugs. Jetski just hit 30hours If the starter relay doesn’t fix it then it would need a new battery. It’s very rare that it would be the starter motor. If it was the spark plugs then it would run rough, but it never hurts to replace the spark plugs. I like replacing my spark plugs every year but I doubt that is your problem. What could be the possible problem I’m having the same problem on a 2008 Yamaha 1100 ski. Battery is new starter silo ode is good also changes stArter button. Russ If both of them have very similar hours then they both get used the same and if they still have the original battery in them then its time for new ones. 7 hour is quite low for a watercraft that is 6 years old, riding them more often will help keep the battery charged. Or you can use a Solar panel to keep the battery charged when you’re not riding them. Also, those year models did have issues with reading the key, you need to take it to your local dealer so they can update the software and the DESS post so it can recognize the keys better. I recently have taken it out 3 times and randomly when i am on the water and want to start the ski back up it would not start or make any noise. This only happens on the water.
When Im on the trailer it always starts up. It will start back up on the water eventually when it wants to but I find that strange. Just bought it a month ago and looks clean and rides great. Got any ideas on what could be causing this. Possible starter relay or maybe even the spark plugs? Thanks If the ski starts on land but not on water it is usually the battery do the extra power needed to start on water. It sounds like your problem is deeper than that. It could be the angle the ski is on when on the trailer compared to the water that allows it to start. It’s so hard to tell and it would best to take it to a repair shop. I would start with the battery and the starter relay first to see if that fixes the issue. Thanks for the support! If I had to guess it sounds like the ECM is not sending the signal correctly to the injectors. This may sound silly but make sure to have fresh gas in the tank. It’s easy to overlook the simple things (like gas) that could be causing the problem. But above all else, something like this needs to be taken to a dealership to see the fault codes. It would be best to have your local repair shop confirm this. It’s impossible to fully diagnose anything over the internet and the best option is to take it to your local repair shop to see what they say. Replaced battery, hit start button, can hear the solonoid engage but it gets a half a crank. If you get multiple clicking then the battery is weak. Always be careful when dealing with HIGH CURRENT items like a battery and the starting system. When in doubt visit your local shop. Battery tested good, replaced the starter relay and still get a single click that seems to be coming from behind the fuse box which is where the starter relay is. Is there anything else that could cause a single click when attempting to start this ski. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. It’s best to have your local dealer look at it.
You could also check out the green hulk forum here as they deal with jet ski’s and someone might know the exact answer. My 2009 VX Cruiser alarm computer is not responding to the fobs. The alarm beep does not sound and if I hit the start I get action on the display but nothing else. Took it in to be reprogrammed, computer can’t connect to the reprogramming key. T.B.C. Old battery got the panels starting but battery was to old so I replaced it with a new. Battery charger shows battery is full but my Sea Doo is completely dead with the new battery. Any ideas please? A battery needs to be load tested to see if it’s any good as battery chargers can sometimes lie to you. I’ve seen new batteries dead and not able to take a charge so I would see about getting it load tested or get another one first. Was dumb enough to pull into a shallow water boat ramp n suck up gravel. Changed the ware ring and installed a New stainless impeller. Put New battery in it, conventional gas, etc. Battery check at Advance auto, new and good. Would be best to have a shop look at it. The engine does a ooh-ahh (for lack of a better sound spelling) when the start buttons hit. Like its getting only a 1\16 of a full rotation then dies until start buttons hit again. No continuous cranking to start Although these batteries cranked all our PWC’s when new last summer, they did go low over the winter due to not trickle charging. They are Wal Mart brand Everstart Premium Powersprots series (or something like that) and I’m thinking that the auto shop, due to not testing under load, recharged them, did the test, and stamped them good. They don’t seem to have a CCA or CA label on them which is suspect also. I’m pretty sure this ski needs 270 CA to crank reliably. It’s best to roll them on a flat surface. You never mentioned checking the starter relay which is easy to replace on that model. I would see about replacing that or checking to see if power is leaving it and going to the starter.
I wouldn’t trust those cheap batteries either, I’ve had a number of those seem fine and charge fine but really was dead. Always buy a good sealed battery for jet skis, they cost more but hold up way better. Or you sucked up something that broke something on the inside of the engine past the drive shaft. I would start with the starter relay, if it’s brown then it definitely needs to be replaced, if its black then might still be bad. Will crank with battery charge as soon as charger is removed it idles weird and starts beeping showing engine on display have a new battery I put acid in now waiting for a full charge just wasn’t sure if it’s the battery or not. If I were you I would stick to seal batteries as the ones you fill can’t always take the abuse of the waves that a jet ski goes through. I talk more about batteries here. No way around this take it to the dealer. It runs like new, has a dual carb setup which is in great shape, and has never left anyone stranded on the water until recently. I have trusted the ski enough to ride out miles from the dock. While riding the other day, the ski shut off and after that would crank but would not start. Once we had it back at the dock it started up just fine. I took it out on the water and had it at wide open throttle and it ran great. We had no more issues that day. I don’t believe its a problem with the battery because no connections are loose, and the ski does not overheat at all. Runs on 50-1 premix and the plugs were changed a month ago. I don’t think anything was stuck in the pump either. I’m puzzled as to why it would shut off like that and then run perfectly fine a half hour later. Was hoping you might have an idea of what was going on with it. Thank you for the help Best thing to do is have a shop look at it. It’s going to be normal for a ski as old as yours (22 years-old) to have odd things to happen to it. Those are some good possibilities. It could definitely have been something with the carbs.