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Let’s walk through the science, safety, ingredients, and process of making soap at home. You can’t have one without the other,, any more than you can have water without hydrogen or salt with sodium. Soap needs oil and it needs lye, or it’s not soap. It was traditionally made from ashes, but now can just be purchased easily. It is used both for soap making and as a drain cleaner, as it will eat away at greasy build up in pipes. It can eat through skin, leave marks on countertops, and cause blindness if it splashes in your eyes. If you follow soap safety guidelines (more on that later), you’ll be fine. But the oils in soap are going to transform it into something completely different. Picking oils is the most fun part of creating a soap recipe. Each oil will bring its own property to the finished product. We already know that this is a chemical reaction. So it’s not like making a pasta salad where you just throw things in and hope for the best. Everything has to be precise. It is a chemical property of that oil, known as its “saponification value”, like the freezing point of a liquid. It’s different for each one. There are many of them available for free online. My favorite is from Majestic Mountain Sage. I just wanted to include it so you understood the basic science behind it all. Heart’s Content Farmhouse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for website owners to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. A digital scale. Remember, this is chemistry and things have to be precise. A stick blender. Mixing by hand doesn’t always work and things might not saponify properly. Old pots and an old spatula for melting oils and blending things. A mold to pour the soap into. This can be as simple as a box lined with freezer paper. Safety gear Brambleberry or Bulk Apothecary are good sources for the oils, fragrance, and lye.
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But it really is, and it’s dangerous in different ways at every part of the soap making process. Many people get scared and overwhelmed by the prospect of working with lye, but it doesn’t have to be scary. Yes, it deserves respect and proper gear, but it’s not scary. Interruptions will cause you to make mistakes, be careless, knock things over, etc. Make sure little ones are out of the room, and never try to make soap when you’re in a rush. Long sleeves A mask Gloves It comes in a pellet or flake form that is very concentrated and dangerous. So you’ll need to be outside or near an open window. And you’ll need gloves and eye protection at this stage as well. The caustic lye solution can blind you if splashed in your eye, or burn your skin. Make it very clear that it’s a dangerous solution. It could be fatal to anyone drinking it. I never wear gloves, and I have gotten soap batter on my skin. It burns. I just started wearing goggles. So do as I say, not as I do ????.) Have your recipe printed out ( you can find my cold process soap recipes here. ) Get out your scale, your stick blender, your oils, and your lye. Have your mold ready to go as well. The lye and water are measured separately, then you add the lye to water. Don’t do it the other way around. You can remember this with this saying “snow floats on the lake”. Mix the lye and water thoroughly, until the lye dissolves. It will be hot. Set it aside to cool in a safe, well ventilated place. Some people prefer to melt the solid oils first, then add the liquid oils, then heat everything up. Or can just dump into one pot and heat everything up together. Do it right on the stove, on low. You want everything thoroughly melted and 140 degrees. The next step is to blend them together with your stick blender. They can be around 100-110 degrees in temperature, or you can let them cool even more. As long as the oils are still melted and the lye and oils are relatively similar in temperature, it will work fine.
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Pour the lye water into the melted oils and blend with your stick blender. At first, it will just seem very liquid, with droplets of oil floating around. After a minute or so, it will become one consistency, with no oil splotches. Then, the batter will start to slightly thicken. Trace means that when you lift up your blender and soap batter comes off of it, that soap batter will rest on top of the pot, leaving a trail, rather than immediately sinking in. It will start hardening right away, so move quickly. Some times it will heat up a lot and go through something called “gel phase”. It gets bright, translucent, and very hot. It’s not a problem, and some people prefer it, because it makes colors brighter. Or by wrapping it in old blankets. It still needs time to finishing drying out so the bar can get harder. You can just leave the bars on an old towel for a few weeks. You can rinse out everything from the pots and tools before it hardens into soap. You’ll need to be careful if you choose this method, because the lye is still very caustic at this stage. That is usually what I do. Try a recipe that’s 30 olive oil, 30 palm oil, 30 coconut oil, and 10 almond oil. Look for a recipe with no strange ingredients, like beeswax or honey (they are lovely in soap but behave a bit differently). Don’t attempt a swirl or fancy design. Try a recipe with very few oils, like homemade bar soap for dishes. Beeswax and honey soap makes a hard bar that is a beautiful gift or guest soap Mango butter soap has a lot of luxury oils and is extra moisturizing. Or check out this list of my favorite books on soapmaking for more recipes. You can make homemade sugar scrubs, homemade hand cream, and even pumpable body lotion without dealing with the dangers of lye. I encourage you not to get stuck in the research phase, and to move on to actually trying your hand at soap making.
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I’ve watched your YT video and found out that this soap can be drying just like a regular dishwashing liquid, therefore, is there a way where I can incorporate shea butter or an inexpensive type of oil that is very moisturizing or nourishing to the skin. Is it also safe that the castor oil, coconut oil, and the “moisturizing oil” will be mixed together? Do you have a substitution. Want to try your mango butter soap. For more info about Soap boxes very beautiful article nice use of pics. Are you planning any tutorial on liquid dish soap. Sorry if this is a duplicate comment, but I can’t find my original post. I was reaching how to make soaps. Great information My oven will not go any lower the 170 degrees. Can I still use this technique. If so how long should I leave the heat on? I have a question regarding the liquid and harden oils. When measuring on scale do you measure the harden oils as they are harden or do you melt down separate and then pour to the scale? Little nervous lol. What kind of coconut oil do you use 76 or 92 degree. And how many bars will this recipe make. Thank you your recipe is so detailed, that’s what I need ???? I use 72 degree coconut oil. I usually get about 12, cut pretty thick. (I know that is not very precise, sorry!) I do not personally like it, but many people do! I have learnt a lot from it. I want to go into soap making. Please I need your assistance in the mixture of the chemical to have very smooth soap at the end. Pls I’ll like to connect with you Is there a drawback to using it. I’ve been turned on to soap-making after someone encouraged us to use old-fashioned, fragrance-free lye soap to keep mosquitos away. Anyway, the soap we purchased was made with lard, so I was wondering if there was a reason not to use it. Thanks! I enjoy your videos! You can find purpose and contentment at home. Learn more here, or visit my privacy policy. You get to choose the oils, colorants, scents, and more.
Once you find your perfect recipe you can start getting creative with the designs. That causes a chemical reaction called saponification.At thin trace, there will be no streaks of oil and the soap will be the consistency of thin cake batter. As the soap sits, it will continue to thicken to medium and thick trace. This video has more information and examples of each stage. Learn more in the Jazzed About Gel Phase post. Gelled soap has a brighter color and a slightly shiny appearance. It can also be unmolded more quickly. Some makers force their soap through gel phase with blankets and heating pads. It only affects the look of the bars, not the quality. Ungelled soap has a more matte appearance. You can prevent gel phase by putting soap in the freezer for 24 hours. Learn how to force it or prevent it in the When to Insulate Handmade Soap post. However, we recommend letting the soap cure for 4-6 weeks in a cool, dry place with good airflow. Ex cess water will evaporate, which creates harder and milder bars that last longer in the shower. It’s definitely worth the wait. All you have to do is enter the oil weight or percentage and the Lye Calculator will give you the lye and liquid amount you need for your recipe. It also calculates the superfat level. Learn how to use the Lye Calculator here. It forms when unsaponified lye reacts with naturally-occurring carbon dioxide in the air. It doesn’t affect the quality and the soap is safe to use. However, it can obscure more intricate designs or make the bars feel crumbly. You can prevent it with a few tricks, including a 10 water discount and gel phase. Learn more in the Explaining and Preventing Soda Ash post. It’s safe to use as long as it’s handled properly. Before getting started, make sure to watch this video or read this post about lye safety. Make sure there are no kids, pets, or other distractions in the room when you’re making soap and always do so in a well-ventilated area.
You’ll need the following items to work with lye. Thinner nitrile or latex gloves provide protection without the bulk. Whatever you choose, they should be paired with long sleeves. Your safety goggles should protect them from all sides, so regular glasses aren’t sufficient protection. If you wear glasses, make sure to get goggles that fit over them. If you’re sensitive to lye fumes or if you’re making large batches, you can wear a dust mask. We also recommend hand washing instead of using the dishwasher. Learn more about how to clean soapmaking tools in this post. Stick blenders emulsify the soap in just a minute or two, so it’s worth the investment. They’re also great for smoothing the top or creating texture. This post can help you decide which one is right for you. They’re a great option for beginner and advanced crafters. They need to be lined with freezer paper or a silicone liner. We recommend a recipe with lots of hard oils and sodium lactate to help the bars come out cleanly and quickly. Get more tips here. I have doubt about the kind of sodium hydroxide. I don’t know if it is possible to use NaOH that is not from a good brand(like Merck).I dont know if it must be high grade or no. I’ve bought one that wasn’t expensive. You will want to check the purity though as that can affect how well the soap you make will harden. Our recipes call for a 97 pure lye so if yours is only 90 you will need to add 7 more lye in order to get the same effect we got in our recipe. However, after weighing all the ingredients out I realised I had my scales set on fluid ounces instead of ounces. Will the soap be safe to use? As long as the soap isn’t lye heavy it would be safe. I do not want to use palm oil in my soaps, I made a recipe that is 40 olive oil, 30 coconut oil, 15 sunflower oil, 5 castor oil and 10 shea butter. I would like to put almond oil but I am not sure if it will be too much and the effects in the soap.
Is that a good recipe to clean, give the soap lather and be gentle to skin without being oily or stick.I’d also like to up the coconut oil . This is my first CP attempt so I don’t want to mess it up. If you use too much Coconut Oil though it can be a little drying for the skin. I have a very daft question. I want to make the castille soap and leave it in the mold for a few days to harden. However, I don’t really have molds to spare. Prepare yourself for a daft question. Can I line a study cardboard box with baking paper and use that as a mold.I would recommend lining it with freezer paper first. I’m so excited to try. However, I want to product a palm oil free product. Are recipes without palm oil supposed to be for the more advanced soap maker. Many thanks, Claire If you’re just getting started I think one of the simplest palm-free recipes would be our Simple Castile Cold Process Soap which is 100 olive oil. Just keep in mind it can take some patience waiting for it to harden. I live at 7200 ft in Wyoming does that matter.But you are more than welcome to use them after 4-6 weeks, they just might be a bit soft. I want to make a relatively hard bar with lots of lather that is still gentle on skin, to be used as an all-purpose type soap (washing clothes, doing dishes, etc.) I imagine it to be a bit like Sunlight soap (although I’m not sure you have that in America!). However, I don’t want to use palm oil. I have done some research and here is the recipe I have come up with: 24 coconut oil 44 olive oil 4 castor oil 8 shea butter 8 cocoa butter 12 canola oil. And Do you have any other advice on my formula? Goat milk soap is new to me though. Everything traced fine and looked nice. However!!! I noticed a few fine grains in the container as I was washing up. I’m worried it’s definitly lye. Can I save this batch. What do I do? I’m sorry if this was asked before.I would weight a couple weeks then test those spots for lye heaviness.
If they are not lye heavy your soap is safe to use. Troubleshooting (and testing for) Lye Heavy Soap. You can turn the soap into laundry soap. DIY Laundry Soap: I didn’t use palm oil. I only used coconut and olive oil. I guess I won’t trash it and just wait to test it. It’s definitely lye grains. I didn’t use flakes. Still savable? You may want to turn it into laundry soap to be safe. That means after 3-4 days, your soap is ready to use! However, you can definitely use your bars earlier. ?? I tried it on 15 th day just to wash my hands. It lathers but looks slimy and my hands feel sticky after washing. I used 4 castor oil and 2 Neemseed oil oil in my recipe. Will it be alright once cured for 6 weeks.? The longer it sits the less water in the recipe which will stop it from feeling that way. It’s awesome. No slimy feel and it’s hard. Thanks team for your support. I have watched a lot of your videos and have perfected my own soaps. I especially love the safety videos that many websites are lacking including mine but I did embed your video on my site. Also, that is perfectly fine as long as the video links back to us or you mention us on your site. Thank you so much for sharing the videos. ?? Within the first few days of making your soap, it will have a different pH, but should mellow out. Because your soap uses mostly soft oils, it may just need longer to cure. Soft oil recipes typically take at least two months to harden and cure, so I think letting them sit out in a cool, dark place may take away some of the oiliness. I’ll include a link that explains more! You can also use sunflower oil at 100 in your recipes, but it is typically used at 20 or less. As for corn oil, I’m not sure. We’ve never used that product before. Keep in mind because you’re using all soft oils, your recipe will be very soft and take longer to unmold and cure. I’ll include a post about that below. ?? We use them frequently in our soap lab and they last forever. ??
When adding to bar soaps, it creates a liquidy oily mess, so I definitely wouldn’t use it in your cold process recipes. We also sell it at brambleberry.com. ?? I made five batches a few months back and feel I have the hang of it now. One thing I had to learn was to add a little extra FO’s or Eo’s in my soap recipes. Mine smelled ok when unmolding them, but when using them, there was very little scent to them. I do like my hands to smell nice after washing them ?? Then I learned that those amounts listed were a “recommended” amount and almost everyone I talked to used more. I was using under so going to try more next batch. Can’t wait to see how that works. Thank you for all your helpful videos. I’ve watched them all. Carrie It’s definitely an addictive hobby. ?? Keep in mind that some essential oils or fragrance oils may cause irritation if too much is used. The product description on brambleberry.com and our Fragrance Calculator is a great way to learn more about suggested usage rates! The recipe is from one of your books. Can I assume the part with fragance is softer due to adding extra (fluid) oil? The coffee grounds may have absorbed some of the moisture in its half, while the side without them still has moisture that will evaporate while it cures. It typically takes 4-6 weeks for that bar to cure. ?? According to my notes, it was made just 3 weeks ago:), it cannot be used yet. I try to learn as much of the process as possible. It is nice to compare the two parts of this soap, especially since these are made equal, but have a different finish. The side with no coffee grounds should set up more and get harder. If so, how can I clean the mold? They’re very versatile! Rub it out with a paper towel, then wash it with warm water and dish soap. ?? It should not be directly applied to the skin. The same applies to essential oils. If used in the correct rates, they will be perfectly safe ?? They should never be applied directly to the skin.
If you have any more questions, let me know! Is this a workable idea. Thank you for any help and suggestions. There is a lot to learn when it comes to cold process:). Regarding the oils not adding up to 100, could you tell me a little bit more about the recipe. The percentages of oils should add up to 100, and then the water and lye is calculated based on your oils:). Working with milk can be very tricky, because when the lye is introduced to milk, the milk scorches. If you’d like to learn more about making soap with milk, you may find the blog post below helpful! I would recommend taking a look at the two posts below. One goes more in depth regarding oils and their recommended usage rates, while the other has tips on how to formulate recipes. I hope this helps ?? But I see you use large pyrex measuring cups. Have you had issues with this or is it only an issue if you don’t use a heat safe glass? I would highly recommend Pyrex glass, we have found it to be very sturdy and reliable ?? You may find our Tool Kit for Beginner’s helpful! Lye and lye solutions should be stored in plastic, not glass. I need ideas for making molds with the kids. Several resources have suggested clay but not what type. There is limited time so it can not be too complicated. All suggestions for molding materials are appreciated. It allows you to use any object to create a silicone mold. It does take about 24 hours for the putty to set up. I hope this helps! I have a question, what is the shelf life for cold process soaps. How do i know when they expire and are not safe to use? That being said, after a while the soap will start to dry out, become crumbly, and the fragrance and colors will fade. This usually starts to happen within 6 months or so, depending on how the soap is stored. I hope this helps! Is it safe for kids too. Can this recipe be used for small kids?
There are no ingredients that you absolutely have to use when making soap for children, but you may want to design your recipe to be very gentle and hydrating. One of my favorite recipes for young children (and for myself!) is the Baby Bastille Soap which uses Coconut Oil, Olive Oil and Buttermilk to create a very hydrating, gentle bar of soap. It was all going ok but I decided to double the dose to fit in my mould but I forgot to double the lay and water. The soap looks beautiful but I don’t think it will works. What should I do to make it work? Unfortunately, there is no real way to save the batch. Because there was not enough lye water, you basically have a lot of free floating oils that did not turn into soap. You may find this video helpful, it gives a helpful visual demonstration of the saponification process ?? If you have any more questions, feel free to ask ?? I think that happened to my soap also I noticed that it started to develop soda ash even though I spray alcohol on it. After it has set, it will not go through gel phase. So if you left your soap in the fridge and it did not gel, it would not start going through gel phase after it has been removed. Although spraying alcohol on the soap will help prevent soda ash, it’s possible for some to still develop. Soda ash depends on lots of different factors including the temperature of your oils and the amount of water in your recipe. For more information regarding soda ash, you may find this blog post helpful! If you ever have questions, we are happy to help! The recipe is just simple 150 gr of coconut oil (29 C), 350 gr rice bran oil with 6 superfat (165 gr water, 67.5 gr lye). I mixed the lye solution and oil at around 118 F (for both solution). And I’m not spinning the whisk continually too, just in short burst mixed with manual stirring. I check it from time to time and quite exited when I see it enter the gel stage in the middle.
After 8-9 hours, I remove the insulation because the temperature had gone down to room temp. It kinda like halo-effect actually. The cut bars are smooth and have the same consistency though, I’m quite sure that it’s not lye or oil pocket because it didn’t leak anything. Here’s the picture: I put it inside an individual mold and just cover the top with tissue. No insulation. It was a bit soft and I saw some salt clump but otherwise it looked normal. The color is uniform which is good, no streaking. Tissue get wet when it touches the soap but I guess after curing it won’t be a problem. This is for personal use so if it’s just a cosmetic problem, I am actually quite ok with it. I’m planning to make another batch of soap, so if I did something wrong, I would like to avoid it later. The white streaks in the soap are fine, your soap should be perfectly safe to use:). My best guess is that effect is heat related. Next time I would try not insulating your soap and see if that helps. I’m guessing that the streaks are due to the gel phase. It’s great that my 1st attempt does not end up bad:). I’m planning on making castile soap next, just trying to figure out where to get the olive oil first. Been buying that brand for a while for cooking, it was so expensive too. It’s hard to find local olive oil here (Indonesia) and I can only find those big brand olive oil in supermarket. There’s people selling them online saying they imported the stuff and have certification, but I’ve been burned before buying things in the internet. So I guess I’m just being very cautious. I did not hear about the scandal regarding Bertolli, so I’m not sure if it has been resolved. We have found that certain brands from the tore tend to go bad quicker, even when they claim to be pure. When buying online I would just do as much research as possible. We do ship internationally, so there is that option as well ??
I have cousin in America, I’ll order when they’re coming here to visit to cut the shipping cost:). I guess the castile soap project has to be postponed. I saw you salt bar recipe here. I want to modify it a bit by using 100 coconut oil, honey for the extra moisturizing effect and earl grey tea in it. Can I ask is it okay to use honey in salt bar. I tried looking for salt bar recipe using sugar in it but I couldn’t find it so I was wondering if it’s not possible for a reason. I got lumps in my soap. I used a natural beeswax which I shaved off. What can be done to avoid this in future? I recommend adding the beeswax into your liquid oils, and heat the mixture until the Beeswax has melted entirely. This oil wax mixture will be very hot, so be careful!you’ll need to keep your oils above 170 degrees and work quickly to prevent the mixture from clumping. You will base the amount of fragrance oil on how much soap you are making. For example, we recommend.7 ounces of fragrance oil per pound of cold process, and.5 ounces fragrance oil per pound of melt and pour. For more info on how to calculate fragrance oil usage, you may find this blog post helpful! How do i calculate the oils and water? According to the calculator, you will need approximately 38-39 ounces of oils. Depending on the oils you choose, the amount of water and lye will change, so make sure to run your recipe with the specific oils you are using through the calculator! ?? My only source for olive oil is the supermarket and it’s a bit pricey. Thanks. We actually have a great blog post about making coconut oil soap! I like my soaps creamy look. I would prefer do not gel. I have been soaping in low temp.But then I get soda ash on the top of my soaps. I have read if I cover my soap and insulate and spray with alcohol I can avoid soda ash I just start to make bigger batch of soaps and I have found partial gel in my soaps. Can I let my soap without insulating at all, soaping between 85-88 F. and avoid the soda ash.
How? Please Help! We often gel our soaps because it not only helps prevent soda ash, but results in brighter colors. You’re correct, spraying your soap with alcohol and covering can help prevent soda ash. If you tend to soap at cooler temperatures, achieve a thicker trace before pouring to lessen soda ash formation. Am using a blender which has stainless steel blade, but the shaft (the umberlla which covers the blade) is “polished aluminum”.Are the batches of soap which i prepared safe to use.We have always found our stick blenders to work really well! The soap that you already made is fine:). I shall change my blender and buy a new one which is completely stainless steel. Can i use those soaps. Is it safe to use? A zap test is sticking your tongue on the soap to test for a “zap” or lye reaction. It will be a zap like sticking your tongue on a 9 volt battery. This would mean your soap is lye heavy. I’m sure your soap isn’t lye heavy, but I would double check to make sure! This was a store purchased soap that someone gave me as a gift. I left it in the plastic container and now it has this white substance on it. Any idea what it is. Is the soap ok or do I have to toss it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. My first thought is that it could glycerin dew. Glycerin is a humectant, which means it draws moisture from the air and sometimes that means the moisture can pool on the surface of the soap. Check out this blog post to see pictures of what I mean: Glycerin Dew: Let me know and I can help troubleshoot further! ?? I did a search and found that picture about the “sweat”( By the way did your brother-in-law enjoy the soap?) I’m wondering if there was sweating and then it dried and turned white. When I wet it, it doesn’t come off. If I rub it with my dry finger when the soap is dry, some of the white is on my finger. There is liquid inside and a plastic figure. The liquid inside is pretty low. Maybe that was seeping through the soap?
We would love to hear from you at info(at)brambleberry(dot)com. The more we know, the more we can help. Thanks Paula! When I mixed in the fragrance oils (1 oz), the soap seems to curdle. I kept on mixing, and the soap got harder and harder, and it got very difficult to put in the molds (silicone. I ended up spooning and trying to mush it in there). While sitting in the molds, the soap has started to “melt” into a kind of crumbly goo, and it’s very hot to the touch. And is there a way to salvage this batch if it doesn’t settle down after cooling? Could you tell us more about your fragrance oil. It sounds like it might have been one that accelerated trace.I would like to add some charcoal to it. What is the rule of thumb as far as amounts go for this ingredient or any other dry ingredient like ground oatmeal or dried camomile flowers for instance. Should they be added after trace. Should I separate some of the traced mixture and add the amount I need and then add it to the rest of the batch or should it be added to the oils before mixing with the lye mixture. Thanks for your help and love your videos. I can tell that you are a very patient lady. Typically, dried ingredients like powders and botanicals can be added in at trace.Will this soap be safe to use. We always suggest adding your lye water to the oils for safety reasons, but your soap should be just fine. If you want to double-check after it has hardened, we suggest doing the zap test. If it zaps, your soap is lye-heavy and you won’t be able to use it on the skin (it’ll be good for laundry soap!), if it doesn’t zap, you can use it! If you have any more questions, let us know.Is this true? I have ordered a slab mold and can wait until it’s delivered, but I’m ready and raring to go now! Be sure to coat the cavities of your molds with a bit of Cylocmethicone to help them pop right out.I really appreciate having a trusted source to go to for questions.