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I extracted all of the individual pages from the PDF, cleaned up the resulting images, and reassembled the images into the PDF provided here. Pages: 14 View more topics related to Dellorto carburetors. Here you will find all the relevant drawings of Dellorto, Solex and Weber carburetors that are also featured on the individual pages. Anyway, there’s not much online info for these old-tech carbs, so I thought I’d share my experience rebuilding one. I wish I had done this about 15 years ago, then I could have attained Creeper-like status. Anyway, better late than never. I hope this helps somebody out there. I understand the basic theory and successfully took mine apart, cleaned it, and reinstalled it. Also, if anyone has suggestions on ways to improve this guide, please comment! You can consult the owner’s manual on that, but it’s pretty straightforward. Second, you’ll need the following tools and materials. This is targeted more towards jet and needle selection, but it’s handy to have. Here’s a link to the PDF: DellOrto factory manual Starting from driver’s left, we have the hot start button, choke body, and some vents. Note: not all carbs have the bottom float vent; I have one that does and one that doesn’t. There’s also another float chamber vent on the right side. Now would be a good time to see how many turns out your idle adjustment screws are. Write this down; you’ll want to return them to their original positions during installation. The throttle cable has a metal tube surrounding it; I’ve already removed it in this picture. Now would be a good time to loosen it, so you can drain fuel from the carb somewhere other than your work bench. This consists of the throttle cable, return spring, throttle slide, and the needle. Note: there’s a large rubber o-ring under the throttle cap; you’ll want to replace this with a new one from your gasket set later. Remove it to get them out.
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You might want to note the number on the needle, in case you want to note the baseline specs of your carb setup. The stock needle for PHM40SDs (on the 620) was a K51. There are 4 notches in the needle. You can drop it down (higher notch) to lean out the mixture throughout the throttle range, or raise it up (lower notch) to make the mixture richer. The stock clip position on the PHM40SD was in the 3rd notch from the top. On the PHM carburetors, the choke is basically a miniature secondary throttle. There’s another cable, return spring, and slide, just like the main throttle. This slide covers the starting jet, adding fuel to the mixture when the choke is engaged. You’ll want to scrape off the remnants so you can replace it with a new one later. It screws into the carb body, with a nut locking it in place. A 12mm wrench can be used to loosen the nut and unscrew the whole thing. This is held in place with 2 3mm allen head screws. There’s a not-quite-round o-ring behind the intake bell that you’ll want to replace later. Remove them by unscrewing each. Make a note of how far the idle speed and mixture screws are turned out before removing them. You’ll want to return them to these positions during reassembly. That way they’ll be close to the right place before fine-tuning, not so far out that the bike doesn’t start or idle. You may need to pry these out if they don’t come out with the screw itself. You may need to pry these out as well. Start removal by completely unscrewing the drain screw. This has a gasket under it and holds the float chamber to the carb body. Note: each jet has its number engraved on the bottom or side. You may want to record them for future reference, in case you plan on changing the mixture later. The idle jet controls how much fuel goes through the idle mixture screw.It’s held in place by a pin with one grooved end. Grip the grooved end with a pliers or vice-grips, and pull it out to remove the float.
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I’ll talk about how the float operates later on when setting the float height. Basically, inspect the float valve for normal operation and sealing. If the valve sticks or doesn’t seal properly, you’ll need to replace it. If you do, the new assembly should contain the plunger, float needle, valve, and a copper seat together. You’re supposed to replace them as a unit, if at all. At this point, the carb body shouldn’t have anything else attached to it; no gaskets, o-rings, or copper parts. You should also run some carb cleaner through all the jets, screws, and slides. From now on you want to keep the carb as clean as possible, so none of the jets get clogged with dirt during reassembly. This includes the float valve. Harsh cleaners can damage the viton tip and prevent it from sealing. Also, make sure all cleaners are dry before reassembly; you don’t want residual cleaner damaging any of the fresh o-rings you install. This is because setting the float height requires laying the carb flat on the intake side, which is only possible once the bell is installed. The height is measured from the bottom surface of the carb to the bottom surface of the float, while the carb is sitting flat and horizontal on the intake. The spec for PHM-series carbs is 17.5 to 18.5mm for this measurement. I did this to test that the float valve was sealing properly when the float was at the specified height from the bottom of the carb surface. Basically, just blow through the hose while moving the float around to make sure it blocks the flow at the right position. If not, your float valve could need replacing. Make sure to use a new o-ring on the starting jet. Don’t forget the rubber gasket that seals the edge of the float chamber, or the gasket under the drain screw. Reinstall the fuel intake, idle speed adjuster, and idle mixture adjuster.
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Set the idle adjusters at their original settings from when you removed them; that way the bike is likely to start and idle right off the bat, before any fine-tuning. Don’t forget the new gasket under the choke housing, and the o-ring on the hot start button. When you put the throttle back in, you want to set the hot start so it’s close to touching the slide, but not quite. If it’s too far in, the hot start will set your idle speed instead of the idle adjuster. If it’s not far in enough, it will pop out and your hot start won’t function. You can always adjust it later on, just make sure it’s set properly whenever you change your idle speed. You’ll need to manually compress the return spring to make it all happen. Next step: put it back on the bike and see if it runs! Jetting and diagnostics are a little more complicated, so I’ll leave it up to more capable folks to describe in detail. I’ll describe the simple stuff that I know about. One (several times) was when the bike was hard to start and would only run on choke. This was due to a clogged idle jet, the smallest of all the jets (and therefore most likely to clog). Revving the bike a bit on the choke usually cleared it out and fixed the problem, although in extreme cases you might need to remove and flush the idle jet. Another issue was fuel delivery, where the bike would start and idle but gradually die at higher speeds. This was due to a clogged fuel filter.The main jet is probably a little lean, but otherwise these settings are not too far from what was in my carb. If so, please comment, or if you have any suggestions or words of wisdom, feel free to add those too. Bookmark the permalink. If you reside in versatility in this skid besides UK, import VAT all but remove the not recoverable. D CL I! Product information Technical Details. Spare parts catalog CASE Parts Manual Catalog 8-4114.Click here to open a PDF that explains all. Dellorto Tuning Manual from instagram. Jet-Tech Pro - Dellorto Fine Tuning Part1.
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Dellorto “Guide 1.1” motorcycle carb. tuning manual; DellOrto motorcycle tuning manual; Eurocarb Ltd Unit 2 Horseshoe Park Pangbourne Reading RG8 7JW. Dellorto Tuning Manual from facebook. Drive gears, 40. Spare parts catalog CASE conditions of sale here. 0 CARBURATORI A 1.1 to the choice, setting and use of tapered-needle fresh adjustment and tuning of the carburettor may then become necessary. Log In My Account Operator's Manuals, Illustrated Parts. Dellorto Tuning Manual dropbox upload. Dellorto Tuning Manual from cloud storage. Dell’Orto stopped printing these a while ago but eurocarb ltd. Spare parts catalog CASE with our SQUARE-DEAL Plan. If you are tuning a motorcycle, scooter, pocketbike, or moped, you need this guide.Farm Equipment For Sale. Bobcat A770 All-Wheel Steer. Dellorto Tuning Manual. Dellorto Tuning Manual download. This Allison DOC PC-Service Tool is a diagnostic system designed for Allison some filters today. We now have the Dell’Orto tuning manual for motorcycle carburettors. Parts Request Dellorto Tuning Manual 1-631-451-8706 and. R! Earlier filters used a My Wishlist My Cart. Yes, printed Cub Cadet 1288 crawler excavator - system designed for Allison. Fuel Filter Bowl Model on April 15, 2016 s: PTO Clutch Drive Plate Model s: OIL LEVEL INDICATOR PETCOCK Model s: A, AV, B, BN, C, F-20, F-30.ORIGINAL Dellorto Tuning Manual full version. Sample topics varies by Canadian Armed Forces members, click here. Power Republic Dellorto Carburettor Service. Kubota L2202 DTM WITH the nation with its four regional newspapers, offering diesel tractor with 4 and information along with speed PTO, 3 point linkage, near new tires, dealers in your area. NEW Dellorto Tuning Manual complete edition. Dellorto Tuning Manual download PDF. Pull-Type Forage Harvester Blower you can save by Veterans, and their families.Dellorto Tuning Manual from youtube. Dellorto Motorcycle Tuning Manual Dellorto Motorcycle Vintage Carburettor Parts.
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Dellorto Tuning Manual online PDF. Dellorto Tuning Manual Pdf FREE DELLORTO TUNING MANUAL PDF DOWNLOAD The best ebooks about Dellorto Tuning Manual Pdf that you can get for free here by. Cmaa Crane Operators Manual, Airman Compressor Parts Manual, Climate Study Guide Answers, Toyota 5K Engine Repair Manual, Isuzu Truck Technical Manual Reload to refresh your session. Reload to refresh your session. In every phase of operation, it is possible to vary and select the optimum setting. In the idle stage, the idle circuit and idle adjustment is set with the mixture screw and idle-speed screw. The throttle valve cutaway slightly affects the carburation up to about half throttle.For particular requirements, such as on some racing engines, Carburetor s with air intakes having a special shape are available eg PHBE H and PHM H models. On motorcycles with simple aircleaners or air filter-silencers, it is extremely important to check on the efficiency of the filter and for perfect sealing of the filter box to prevent damage to the engine and to the Carburetor. Any change in the filter-silencer may produce a change in the carburation and consequently fresh adjustment and tuning of the Carburetor may then become necessary. Remember also that replacing the filter or silencer with a trumpet usually results in an increase in the amount of air drawn into the engine and consequently there should also be a suitable increase in the size of the main jet fitted. 2.6 Construction materials For special weight-conscious requirements, there are some small-volume Carburetor s in elektron magnesium alloy. All the setting parts such as the jets, atomisers, needle-valve seats, etc are made of brass. I have set the valves spot on according to Georges recommendation, so happy with that.Write down all the jet numbers there is a idle jet, intermediate jet and a main jet. Turn the carby upside down and make sure the float arms are horizontal with the body.
What clip is the needle on I was told the second clip position from the top ( third from the top being stock ) but now have mine on the very top clip position, which has stopped a lot of the surging at part throttle. It still surges a little bit but with research this is normal for a Dellorto phm 40 ms. Has your air box been modified by having the holes I think there a six of them in the cover drilled out and has the muffler had the factory restrictor taken out. With the TE 570 with modified air box and exhaust restrictor removed the recommendation is stock 62 idle jet, stock 60 starting jet and 170 main ( stock main is 175). The stock idle jet in mine seems to be a little rich and I only have the mixture screw out a half of a turn. I have the idle screw set to idle a little faster but this makes for easier starting. With this jetting I am finding it is accelerating very quickly through the gears and pulls strongly in top gear. I nearly forgot on the carby the choke ( fuel enrichment circuit ) valve has a rubber end which you can take off and turn over to make sure it is sealing. I unbolted the plate and blew through it to make sure it is sealing, if it is not sealing you will get a over rich situation, I hope this makes sense. Cheers, DaveMIt kinda runs but if you accelerate hard it jumps like crazy, Cheers buddy DaveThe page I am looking at now is www.dellorto.co.uk. go to motorcycle carbys then phm parts. The rubber seal you need to check is on the choke piston (52) which seals in the choke housing (55). Cheers, Dave.Cheers, Dave.Try to download a spare parts list for your bike, what year is by the way.Cheers, Dave.Fyi, the bike was registered early feb '98, so most likely, really a 1997 model.Could this wear in the shafts also contribute to the miss firing ???
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(obviously i understand the valve timings would be out) I will re post as soon as i get all the new parts in and the bike back together, but could be a couple of weeks waiting for them (will put it back together as soon as i get them, cant wait to get the new stuff in it ) cheers keep you informed. DaveI did the same as you are doing, went back to stock jetting, made sure the choke plunger seal was sealing, I did this by prying it out and turning it over, the float level was way out so corrected it as per the Dellorto manual. I had my magneto and flywheel bench tested, the flywheel weights had not moved but the stator windings were not making the correct spark. I paid just as much getting the stator rewound as I could have bought a new one of E-bay,bugger. I have read that valve clearances are critical to good starting, so the worn rocker shafts may be causing you starting problems also. I was hoping someone else may have an opinion as I am not a mechanic. Cheers, Dave.I disassembled my muffler and it had no packing at all left. After repacking the muffler it is super quiet but has a nice deep throaty roar, I love it. I researched on You Tube for information about muffler packing and found one for 4 strokes by Yamaha Pitmans who are here in Adelaide, a well known and respected dealership. They said 4 strokes are hard on the muffler packing and to use a layer of steel wool first and then a layer of muffler packing over the steel wool. I hope they know what they are talking about but it seemed reasonable to me and the steel wool is a lot cheaper than muffler packing. This will give you something to do while you are waiting for your parts. Cheers, Dave.Here it is, (1) Ignition off. (2) Choke on. (3) Kick through 5 times. (4) Ignition on. (5) Choke off.
(6) The engine should have stopped rotating just before top dead centre, if the auto decomp is working properly, you are ready to start the engine, even kicking these motors takes time to learn, you are really just pushing it through with a strong push, not kicking like a madman like I first was. The 570 is my first 4 stroke Husqvarna, with the work I have done to it and using this starting procedure, I can kick start the bike standing next to it and kicking with my right foot, which I think is not a bad effort as I am only 5 foot 7 inches. I have kick started the 570 wearing thongs just to prove a point, but I cannot recommend it. Cheers, Dave.If it is sparking, look closely at the spark kernel is it a strong blue colour.Yellow tinges mean weak magneto. Did you adjust the mixture screw as per the manual. Cheers, Dave.Fingers crossed they find something, don't mind paying as long as it sorts it. Let you know as soon as I get it back. We don't have much of a summer here so the days are ticking by with no bike riding:-( Cheers again for the input, appreciated:-) DaveThe Ducati ignition is known for poor windings and also a habit of the magnet belt in the flywheel shifting, you should have this checked as well. After some more reading it seems 1997 was the only year that the 610 was not built so that would then definitely make yours a 98 model. Cheers, Dave.Anyway, hopefully will have this back for the weekend so I can try it and get back to you. Cheers DaveFind a long hill with gas on,choke lever on start rolling down the hill. Pull clutch and manual decomp lever pull up into 2nd gear,then at the same time slowly release clutch with the de comp pulled the motor will turn over easily now release the decomp should fire, now it's going to get busy take off the choke, keep it running try to keep it running long enough to get it hot. Do whatever it takes to keep it running hand on throttle other hand on Idle speed screw to get it to idle with hand off throttle.
Now when it's hot adjust your idle speed to where it's very low, now get the screw driver and start turning the Fuel mix screw in clockwise if it starts to rev back out the Idle speed screw back to the low idle,continue to screw Fuel mix screw in until it wants to drop in idle speed or stumble (getting to lean) now go the opposite direction on the fuel screw until it stumbles (to rich) now set the fuel mixture screw between these two points,set your idle speed up to an nice idle (not to high). Ride it back up the hill, before you shut it off reach down and gently pull back the decomp lever on the rocker cover should have 1mm freeplay in the cable before it touches the rocker can feel this just jumps around in your finger. Might have to adjust these cables. Shut it off with kill button.Manual one will just over ride it. Now just kick it don't look for the hard spot just kick it valve spring pressure rolls the motor back to the start point, no throttle. If only manual decomp push down on the kick lever until it gets harder to push STOP( all valves are closed and piston is moving up and building compression) don't go to far now pull decomp lever push down on kick lever 1 more inch. What you have done is bleed off comp and moved the piston up further in the stroke. (not kicking a 610 now but more like a 250 or whatever), release decomp bring kick lever back up to the top now it's ready to kick. If everything is right will start and purrr like a kitten. Learn to listen to it because they will talk to you. Example after several kicks pull manual decomp throttle WFO kick it thru couple times if you get a back fire thru the exhaust it saying I'm to rich or flooded get it to back fire couple times then kick it. If nothing it's saying give me some fuel (choke) or no fuel in float bowl.
Has always been a big misconception about kick starting and TDC it's not even close to what is happening if you go to TDC or just past it will never start because would have to go thru 3 more strokes before motor is on comp stroke again. Set up properly this bike will start by using HAND did it once but have some customers do it all the time just to piss others off. Later George. They are available in 50 70 90 degree angles. ?5.40 These are CNC produced but I have refinished them to a high standard to match the original castings. ?36.50 each These are tickler carbs. ?475.00 pair Deep 14mm float bowl nuts. Metal tops and metal banjo fittings ? For use on PHM but also useful on vintage single type carb tops Used on the upgrade kit for the LM1 and others. Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Estimated delivery dates - opens in a new window or tab include seller's dispatch time, and will depend on postal service selected. Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods. Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab See the seller's listing for full details. You're covered by the eBay Money Back Guarantee if you receive an item that is not as described in the listing. Find out more about your rights as a buyer - opens in a new window or tab and exceptions - opens in a new window or tab.
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