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Or type in the serial number in the 2nd field, click the “Models For Serial” button to find the model number. Then click “Go” to search for manuals. Cookie Settings Cookies installed can be deleted. If you reject cookies, you may still use our Website, but your ability to use some features or areas of our Website may be limited. View Privacy Policy for more information. HOSHIZAKI provides this manual primarily to assist qualified service technicians in the service and maintenance of the icemaker. Should the reader have any questions or concerns which have not been satisfactorily addressed, please call or write to the HOSHIZAKI Technical Support Department for assistance. The period from the end of the freeze cycle up to the point of the thermistor's sensing varies depending on the ambient and water temperatures. If there is a white wire, place the switch in the C position. If this switch is placed in the wrong position, either the compressor contactor will remain energized with the control switch OFF, or the unit will not start. The dip switches should be adjusted per the adjustment chart published in the Tech Specs book. Ready to complete freeze cycle when float switch circuit opens. Drain timer starts counting. 5. After the first 5 minutes in freeze cycle. Ready to complete freeze cycle when float switch circuit opens. The defrost timer starts counting when the thermistor reads a certain temperature at the evaporator outlet. The resistance varies depending on the suction line temperatures. The thermistor detects the temperature of the evaporator outlet to start the defrost timer. No adjustment is required. If necessary, check for resistance between thermistor leads, and visually check the thermistor mounting, located on the suction line next to the evaporator outlet. SETTING Dip Switch No. 3 T1: Time to drain the water tank T2: Time to restrain defrost completion 4) Drain Counter Do not adjust the drain counter, or the evaporator may freeze up.
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The drain counter is factory-adjusted to drain the water tank every 10 cycles, and no adjustment is required. Two new dip switches numbered 9 and 10 have been added to the improved “E” board to better prevent possible freeze ups. These settings come factory set to the default setting of 60 min. Therefore it is important to prevent moisture from entering the system when replacing or servicing parts. Remember to loosen the connection, and purge the air from the hose. See the nameplate for the required refrigerant charge. Hoshizaki recommends only virgin refrigerant or reclaimed refrigerant which meets ARI Standard No. Do not replace the drier until after all other repair or replacement has been made. Note: When replacing a compressor with a defective winding, be sure to install the new start capacitor and start relay supplied with the replacement compressor. See the nameplate for the required refrigerant charge. 16) Connect the terminals, and replace the terminal cover in its correct position. 17) Replace the panels in their correct position. 18) Plug in the icemaker, and turn on the power supply. 4. Always install a new drier every time the sealed refrigeration system is opened. Do not replace the drier until after all other repair or replacement has been made. Always install a new drier every time the sealed refrigeration system is opened. Do not replace the drier until after all other repairs or replacements have been made. 1) Turn off the power supply, and unplug the icemaker. 2) Remove the panels and the top insulation over the evaporator. Do not replace the drier until after all other repair or replacement has been made. 1) Turn off the power supply, and unplug the icemaker. No adjustment is required under normal use. Adjust the water regulator, if necessary, using the following procedures. 1) Attach a pressure gauge to the high-side line of the system or prepare a thermometer to check for the condenser drain temperature. Removal and Replacement of Pump Motor.”.
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Please upgrade to a modern browser. We recommend Mozilla Firefox or Google Chrome.Usually Ships in 1-2 Business DaysHoshizaki Water Cooled Ice MachinesBefore we see how to diagnose electrical and component failures, let’s review the KM cuber’s sequence of operation. First, the unit always starts in the 1 minute fill cycle. Sixty seconds later, the initial harvest begins. Three to four minutes later, the freeze cycle begins. Longer harvest may occur in colder climates. After an average freeze time of approximately 30 minutes, the pump-out cycle occurs. Ten to twenty seconds later, the normal harvest begins. The KM cuber will continue to cycle until the bin control opens to stop the ice production. The first step in the 10 minute check-out procedure is to make sure there is adequate water and power supplied to the unit. When trouble shooting for system failures, remove the front panel, turn the ice maker off, and remove the control box cover. Now turn the unit back on. Remove the evaporator cover and make sure water is entering the reservoir. If there is no water coming in, check the bin control. The bin control contacts supply power to all the other controls in the unit. To check the bin control, flip the unit switch to the “wash” position. In the pump starts, it indicates that the bin control is closed. Next, check the cleaning valve micro switch. Flip the unit switch back to the ice making position. If there is still no water entering the evaporator, check the position of the cleaning valve handle. This handle must be in the horizontal position in order for the micro-switch, located behind the handle, to close. This micro-switch supplies control voltage to the control board. The cycle will not start without control voltage. A quick check of the control transformer secondary will verify that control voltage is present. If the 1 minute fill does not begin after you have checked the bin control and cleaning valve, check for 115 volts to the water valve.
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Check the terminals of the inlet water valve. If you have voltage, you can assume there is a problem with the water valve. Before replacing the water valve, check the inlet stream for debris. To do this, shut off the water and unscrew the thumbnut behind the water valve. Push the water line aside and inspect the screen. Clean or replace the screen as necessary. Check the water valve coil and diaphragm for problems and replace the water valve if necessary. After correcting the water valve problem, turn the machine on. The ice maker should cycle through the 1 minute fill and start the initial harvest cycle. If the initial harvest cycle does not start after 1 minute, check the float switch. Unplug the float switch and check for continuity with your own meter. If it is not closed and water is in the reservoir, the float switch is either dirty or defective. Clean it and check it to assure proper operation. If the float switch is good, the control board timer is defective and the board should be replaced. If the ice maker cycles into the initial harvest, the float switch is closed and the 1 minute timer works. A minute or so into the harvest cycle, the inlet to the evaporator should feel warm to the touch. As the hot gas circulates, the thermistor at the evaporator outlet reaches 48 degrees. The length of time it takes to reach 48 degrees depends on the ambient conditions and the water temperature. The length of harvest will automatically adjust to be longer in the winter and shorter in the summer. If the evaporator is not warming up, the first place to check is the hot gas valve. Lightly touch the discharge line to see if it is hot. If the discharge is not hot, then there is an obvious refrigeration problem and you’ll have to troubleshoot the system using basic refrigeration practices. If the discharge line is hot, but there is no heat coming from the outlet of the hot gas valve to the evaporator, you should check for coil voltage.
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If you get proper voltage, the control board is working. If not, the problem is the control board. If you do get voltage, check the coil to be sure it’s energized. To do this, lay a metal paperclip on the coil. If you can feel a magnetic pull, the coil is energized. If the coil is in fact energized, it is possible that the hot gas valve is stuck. A stuck valve should be replaced using proper refrigeration practices. With normal operation of the hot gas valve, the evaporator will warm. At 48 degrees, the thermistor will start the defrost completion timer. The average harvest cycle and average ambient temperatures will range from 2-4 minutes. Longer harvest will occur with colder supply water or if the defrost completion timer is adjusted longer. If the harvest cycle does not end within 10 minutes, leave the machine running and unplug the thermistor. Check the resistance with your own meter and compare it against the temperature resistance chart in your tech specs book. For example, if your meter reads 6K ohms of resistance, the sensor temperature is 32 degrees. However, after 10 minutes in the harvest cycle, the temperature should be much warmer. This would tell you that there is a refrigeration problem. In another example, if your meter reads 2.5K ohms then the suction line temperature is 70 degrees. Since that temperature is well above the normal 48 degrees needed to start the defrost completion timer, the control board is not responding and there is a problem with the board. Once the harvest cycle ends, the freeze cycle begins. The hot gas valve and water valve de-energize and the pump motor and self-contained fan start. After the ice maker is in the freeze cycle, the evaporator inlet should feel cold within about 3 minutes. If it does, you have basic refrigeration occurring. If the evaporator is still warm after 3 minutes, there is a possible refrigeration problem.
This problem might be caused by 1-hot gas valve not closing, 2- coil still energized because of a control board problem, 3- thermostatic expansion valve not opened properly, or 4- insufficient refrigerant. These items should be checked using normal refrigeration diagnostic practices. Next, let’s make sure the ice maker is purging properly by checking the pump-out system. After 5 minutes in the freeze cycle, unplug the float switch to initiate harvest. This will cause the unit to go into a 10 second pump-out that will flush the dirty water and sediment through the check valve and down the drain. You can also squeeze the pump supply hose tight enough to force the water down the drain. This would empty out the reservoir and allow the float switch to open by itself. It is important to understand the control components of the KM cuber. These components include the control board, the float switch, the thermistor, and bin control. First, let’s look at the bin control for any suspected problems or adjustments. A quick check of the bin control can be accomplished by switching the pump to the “wash” position. The unit will not start if the bin control is stuck open. When the bin control is stuck closed, the machine will not automatically shut off. If the bin control is not adjusted properly, it could cause the unit to shut down prematurely or allow ice to back up into the evaporator, causing a freeze-up condition. To check the adjustment of the bin control, access the thermostatic bulb, turn the switch to the “wash” position. Next, place a small amount of ice on the thermostatic bulb. Count the seconds and listen for the pump to shut off. If the pump shuts down within 6-10 seconds, the bin control is adjusted properly. Adjustment can be made with a screwdriver in the bin control slot. The float switch has two primary functions; it provides low water safety protections and initiates harvest.
If the float sticks in the down position, which is open, the unit will switch to the one minute fill cycle and run water continuously. If the float sticks in the up position, which is closed, the unit will remain in freeze for 60 minutes. The cubes will be larger than normal and the pump will cavitate before harvest begins. If either of these symptoms exists, the float switch needs to be cleaned and checked. First, take the float switch apart and clean it with ice machine cleaner. Once you’ve cleaned the float switch, check it with an ohm meter to be sure it operates properly. The thermistor monitors the outlet temperature of the evaporator. At 48 degrees, it starts the defrost completion timer. At 127 degrees, it automatically shuts down the machine on the manual reset high-temperature safety. There are only two ways a thermistor can fail: open or shorted. An open thermistor will cause a consistent 20 minute harvest cycle. A shorted thermistor will shut the unit down on the high-temperature safety. When you switch the power off and back on, the safety will not reset. The thermistor should be checked using an ohm meter as previously discussed. Now, the control board. The control board processes information to supply the voltage that allows the components of the ice maker to cycle properly. Many things can affect the control board, but if you have proper supply voltage, proper control voltage, a good float switch, a good thermistor, and good pin connections, and the machine is not cycling properly, you can assume that you may have to replace the control board. Remember, when servicing any Hoshizaki ice maker, always refer to your tech specs guide for detailed information or call the Hoshizaki service hotline on your screen. Understanding these symptoms and the operation of these simple controls will help you diagnose sequence problems on a KM unit using the 10 minute check-out procedure.Clean the removable air filter.
Service the water filter and check the water valve screen. Visually inspect the loose wires, oil spots, water drips, etcetera. Clean the exterior with a soft cloth and neutral cleaner. Clean and sanitize the water system and bin. Annual cleaning and sanitizing of the water system is recommended. More frequent cleaning may be required depending on local water conditions. Cleaning the water system is an easy procedure with the KM cuber. The complete cleaning instructions are listed on the reverse side of the front panel. First, drain the reservoir by removing the stand pipe on M-models or drain plug on S-series models. Mix the cleaning solution according to directions on the panel and then pour it into the reservoir. Hoshizaki recommends Hoshizaki Scale Away or Economics Lab’s Lime Away. However, the durable stainless steel evaporator plate will not be harmed by any commercialized machine cleaner. Set the control switch to wash and turn the evaporator cleaning valve to the “open” or “wash” position. With these controls set, the pump circulates cleaner inside and outside of the evaporator plates. Since the inside pass does not collect heavy mineral deposits, allow the cleaner to circulate through the cleaning valve for about 5 minutes. Then, turn the cleaning valve back to the horizontal position. This allows all the cleaner to flow on the outside of the plates where more cleaning is needed. When cleaning is completed, flush the rudder system thoroughly with clean, fresh water. Turn the control switch to the “ice” position. The ice maker will restart in the normal sequence of operation. The same procedure should be used to sanitize the water system. Circulate this solution for 5-10 minutes over the evaporator surface and ribs. Flush the solution from the machine with clean, fresh water before restarting the ice maker. We hope this video has helped you better understand the basic sequence of operation and check-out procedure for Hoshizaki KM Cubers.
Call our toll-free hotline for further information on KM cubers or other Hoshizaki products. Remember, the name Hoshizaki stands for dependable and serviceable ice makers, designed with the service technician in mind.Regular maintenance checks and servicing are made easier with the KM Cuber's removable panels. The component sections are divided into separate compartments, free from the damaging effects of moisture. Separating the evaporator, or wet section, from the dry electrical components of our machines helps eliminate many problem areas. Dividing these compartments also helps insulate the heat generated by the compressor from the cold section, making the KM Cuber more energy efficient. Unlike other ice makers on the market, the KM Cuber's pump motor is housed in a separate insulated compartment away from the moisture of the evaporator, reducing corrosion, bearing, and winding failures. At the heart of our pump assembly is a more efficient, permanent split capacitor motor. This assembly can be easily removed and rebuilt in the field. The sealed evaporator section has a smaller ice drop zone than other ice makers. During operation, positive air pressure helps to reduce the air flow around the evaporator, keeping airborne bacteria out and reducing algae growth. Many manufacturers build evaporator plates in welded sections of copper, which are plated with nickel or tin. Plating the copper is necessary for sanitation and to allow the ice to harvest properly, but it may flake and peel from the copper with age, contaminating the ice. The unique plate design of Hoshizaki's evaporator with its stainless steel freezing surface and oval-shaped serpentine tubing produces a crystal clear, crescent-shaped hard cube of ice which displaces more liquid than square or diced cubes. Since pure water freezes first on the evaporator plate, minerals are left to run off into the reservoir, reducing scale buildup and saving frequent and expensive cleaning.
Some of the benefits of the KM Cuber that help make your job easier include removable panels, separate compartments, an insulated evaporator section, a rebuildable pump assembly, a small ice drop zone, and a unique stainless steel evaporator. Now, let's look at the basic sequence of operation of the Hoshizaki KM Cuber. The one-minute fill cycle assures that the ice machine will not start until there is sufficient water, eliminating overheated pumps and compressor problems. After one minute, the controller board checks to see if the float switch is closed, and if not, repeats the fill cycle until the water level is sufficient. The float switch check also occurs at the end of each harvest cycle to ensure continuous, automatic low water safety. When the switch is closed, the controller starts the initial harvest cycle which runs approximately 2-3 minutes depending on ambient air and water temperature. First, hot gas from the compressor enters the serpentine coils of the evaporator, while the inlet water valve remains open to assist in the harvest. This causes any ice remaining from the previous cycle to be released from the plate, while water continues to fill the reservoir. Starting the compressor in the harvest cycle with the hot gas valve open provides a no-load start, better efficiency, and longer life of the compressor and components. When the thermostat senses that the evaporator temperature has reached 48 degrees Fahrenheit, the solid state defrost completion timer on the circuit board takes control of the remainder of the harvest cycle. During the harvest cycle, the inlet water valve brings water through the supply tube and down the center of the evaporator plates. This water flow also helps transfer heat from the serpentine coils to the stainless steel plates and pre-chills the water flowing into the reservoir. During the freeze cycle, water is pumped to the outside of the plates through the distributor tubes.
In the freeze cycle, the hot gas and water valves are closed. As the self-contained condenser fan and pump motor starts, water is circulated up and across the outside of the evaporator plate and back down into the reservoir. The circuit board controls the freeze cycle for the first five minutes, providing short cycle protection. The float switch then assumes control to initiate the next harvest. If power to the machine is interrupted, the unit will always restart in the one-minute fill cycle. Before the second harvest, a 10-second pump-out cycle occurs. As the hot gas valve opens, allowing gas to warm up the evaporator, the pump motor stops for two seconds then begins again in reverse. This pumps out the water containing concentrated minerals from the bottom of the reservoir through the check valve and out the drain. At the same time, water is used to power flush the float switch. For improved cleaning, the pump-out timer on the circuit board may be adjusted to lengthen the cycle to 20 seconds. It can also be adjusted to occur every 1, 2, 5, or 10 cycles. These adjustments provide the service technician with the flexibility to overcome some problems associated with the high mineral content present in some local water supplies. When the pump-out cycle is completed, the pump motor stops and the inlet water valve opens. Just as in the initial harvest, the evaporator is warmed by the hot gas defrost and water assist, clearing any ice left frozen on the plate as the reservoir then refills in preparation for the next freeze cycle. The water level in the reservoir always overflows the stand pipe at the end of the harvest cycle. On top of the stand pipe is a displacement cap, which pulls additional minerals from the bottom of the reservoir and flushes them. This cleaning action can be extended by lengthening the defrost completion timer setting. When the bin is filled with ice, the machine automatically shuts off until more ice is needed.
Let's review the basic sequence of operation: the ice maker always starts with the one-minute fill cycle. The initial harvest cycle clears ice from the plate, assures a full reservoir, and allows quick and easy compressor starting. After five minutes in the freeze cycle, the float switch assumes control to initiate the next harvest. The 10-20 second pump-out cleans the reservoir every 1, 2, 5, or 10 cycles. The normal harvest is the same as the initial harvest and allows the flush to clean the reservoir at the end of this cycle. For Tech Support, call 1-800-233-1940.Stainless steel evaporator plates, a rebuildable pump assembly, and a small ice drop zone are just a few of the many benefits to these cubers. Award-winning products combined with an extensive sales and service network make Hoshizaki the right choice. Hoshizaki stands out from the completion in three key areas: 1. Stainless steel exterior throughout our entire product line, 2. Stainless steel ice-making surface, and 3. Individual cubes. Ice is one of the most important items served in any food and beverage operation. And if you don't think so, see what happens when you run out. Ice is no longer one size fits all. The latest trends show that operators are demanding a variety of ice to meet each site application. Perhaps it's the cube ice for beverages, or flaked ice for seafood displays; it's important to know which type of ice is just right. Our crescent cube has been called the world's most perfect ice for good reason. Our exclusive design produces a hard, pure, crescent-shaped ice cube. Cuber ice machines have features which differentiate it: the stainless steel flat ice-making surface is durable with long-lasting construction. This makes it easy to clean and produces clear, pure cubes. Individual square cubes are designed for the discriminating customer. These hard, large cubes are a favorite of mixologists for adult beverages and specialty drinks.
Top hat-style cubes provide a hard individual gourmet ice. They are perfect for offices, residential, rooms or suites, outdoor kitchens, and healthcare. In the flake category, we offer the traditional fine-flaked ice and cubelets, a larger chewable ice. Ice is formed in a barrel-type cylinder, moved upward through an extruding head, producing a dry, flaked, or cubelet ice. Available in a wide variety of configurations, our cubelet ice offers fast cooldown with good displacement. It's a customer favorite because it absorbs beverage flavors, allowing them to linger on your taste buds. Popular in produce and seafood displays, as well as healthcare, our flaked ice is a moldable ice that quickly cools down and maintains freshness of foods. All Hoshizaki models have a stainless steel exterior, providing the perfect combination of sophistication and durability. Hoshizaki is Energy Star Partner of the Year. At Hoshizaki, our performance says it all. We rank the highest in efficiencies in our reported product categories for Energy Star. Hoshizaki: The right choice.Food service operators have more choices than ever before when it comes to individual ice cubes. Hoshizaki even offers chewable cubelet ice designed to cool down drinks faster or keep your seafood display chilled to the perfect temperature. While the KM cuber and flaker machines differ in some features, the installations are basically the same. In order to avoid problems after starting up, it is important that you install these machines properly the first time. There are several things you should do before installing the ice maker. First, take a look at the installation site. Remember, these ice makers are not intended for outdoor use. For best results, the ice maker should not be located next to ovens, grills, or other high-heat producing equipment. The location should provide a firm, level foundation for the ice maker and storage bin.
Check the installation site to be sure there's an adequate water supply and proper drainage. Be sure to allow for a 6 inch clearance at the rear, sides, and top of the machines intended location to allow for proper air circulation and ease of maintenance and service. If you are installing an auger type ice maker, it is necessary to allow for adequate clearance above the unit to allow for during service. Next, inspect the exterior of the cartons for visible damage and unpack the storage bin. Make sure it is the correct bin for your application. Attach the four adjustable legs provided to the bottom of the storage bin and position it in the selected permanent position. Then, unpack the ice maker, being careful to save the registration cards located in the pouch on the carton. Also, remove all packing material and tape from inside the machine and remove the package containing the installation manual and accessories. Always refer to this manual or your Hoshizaki technician's pocket guide and carefully follow the instructions for installing the ice maker. To prevent damage, remove the outer panels before installing the ice maker. Now, check to see that the refrigerant lines do not rub or touch other line surfaces. On air cooled units, be sure that the fan blade turns freely. Check that the compressor is snug on all mounting pads. Finally, check the name plate to make sure that your electrical service is the same as the voltage specified. The gasket provided with the Hoshizaki bins provides an adequate seal between the two units. Place the ice maker on top of the storage bin and secure it by using the two mounting brackets and four bolts provided. Level the ice maker storage bin in both the left to right and front to rear directions using the adjustable bin legs. If you're stacking two S units on a single bin, remove the top panel and ABS evaporator cover from the lower unit. Set the second unit on top and secure it with the brackets provided in the accessory package.
Remove the bin control holder and bulb from the top bracket and round it to the bottom unit bracket, taking care not to touch the suction or discharge lines or the compressor base with the controlled capillary tube. Use the top bulb holder to secure it to the bottom bracket. Plug in both bin control plugs and be aware that Hoshizaki stacked units operate independently of each other. When making the electrical connections, it is important that they be made in accordance with the instructions on the warning tag provided with the leads in the junction box. Make sure the white leads are connected to the neutral conductor of the power source. To prevent possible electric shock or damage to the machine, be sure to install a proper ground wire to the ice maker. A separate power supply or receptacle is required for the installation of each ice maker. Be sure to check the name plate for proper capacity. On units requiring the installation of a remote condenser, the unit must be installed in a permanent location. If the condenser unit supplied is not the appropriate Hoshizaki condenser, be sure that the application has been approved in writing by the Hoshizaki technical support department. The installation site should be firm and flat. The location should also be dry and well ventilated. This means locating the unit away from standing water and providing 24 inch clearance on both the front and rear of the unit. Also, when locating the condenser, keep in mind that the maximum refrigerant line length with a factory charge is 66 feet. This can be extended to a maximum of 100 feet with an additional charge. Consult the manual for recommendations for line size and charge amounts. To install the remote condenser unit, first remove it from the carton and secure the legs squarely with eight M8 by 16 mm hexagon bolts and M8 nuts. Next, secure the legs to the roof curb with eight bolts in the eight mounting holes.