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Click Here Not only does it stick to your frame like no other but its traction tape finish allows the rider to Grip the sides of the bike in perfect riding form. Don’t settle for cheap imitations, run what the pros run, Nihilo Concepts Factory Frame Grip Tape. Shop Lever Grips These light-weight east to install lever grips prevent the rider from losing their grip or slipping during riding. Add content to this section using the sidebar.The OEM tensioner is held tight by oil pressure and if oil flow is restricted even for a few seconds the stock tensioner can lose pressure and the chain can jump causing catastrophic damage to you motor. Professional teams like Red Bull KTM and Rock Star Husqvarna don’t like talking that chance that’s why they run the Nihilo Manual tensioners. A small “O” ring and OEM brass washer keep the engine sealed tight. The Nihilo manual tensioner re-uses the OEM brass crush washer and incorporates a beveled edge that self-centers the washer for a perfect fit and seal. There is no longer the need to block off the oil jet because the threaded insert blocks the jet pushing more oil pressure to the top of the motor. We suggest you check the tightness when servicing you motorcycle approximately every 6-8 hours. Simply remove the blue nut, back off the tensioner until it stops and then re-tighten by hand until you feel tension then go.On new motors there will be very little free play, this insures that the chain cannot jump as the motor breaks in small adjustment may be necessary. Powered by Shopify American Express Apple Pay Diners Club Discover Elo Google Pay JCB Mastercard PayPal Shop Pay Venmo Visa. Shop Lever Grips These light-weight east to install lever grips prevent the rider from losing their grip or slipping during riding. Add content to this section using the sidebar.The KTM Stock Tennsioners are Hydraulic and pull oil from the system to make them operate.
In the case of low oil pressure the stock unit can allow the chain to jump destroying the motor. Don't take a chance with the stock component install the Nihilo Manual Tennsioner for worry free operation. By blocking off the oil jet that is intended to pressurize the stock Tennsioner, more oil is forced to the very important valve train and crank assembly. This is very important with any race motor or for anyone that does not want to take a chance with the stock hydraulic unit. The Tennsioner comes with an oil jet block off plug. On the 450 you simply replace the stock jet with the plug, it screws right in. On the 350 you will need to tap the oil jet hole to receive the plug. Clean Area around opening carefully. 2. Remove the Torx head oil jet from left side of tensioner opening carefully. You may need to heat the area in order to remove jet. Do not use open flame to heat. 3. Install the supplied Allen head block off plug in place of oil jet (Use blue Loctite)You will need to tap the 350SXF head with a 6x1mm tap to install the plug. Put some grease on the tap so chips will stick to the tap and not go into the motor. 4. With your new manual tensioner in hand, back the bolt all the way in until the head touches the tensioner. Keep the nut loose at this time. 5. Install the new tensioner into head using stock brass washer and tighten securely. Make sure brass washer is centered and new tensioner seats all the way in. 6. With your fingers, tighten the bolt until it comes in contact with the can chain guide and allow it to touch solidly. 7. With a 6mm wrench, tighten the bolt an additional.You are ready to ride, by blocking off the oil jet you have allowed more oil to flow to the top end of you motor and lubricate the cams and followers. Check tension regularly but do not over tighten. If you have any additional questions call 855-4Nihilo toll free and ask for tech support.
Powered by Shopify American Express Apple Pay Diners Club Discover Elo Google Pay JCB Mastercard PayPal Shop Pay Venmo Visa. As a guest, you may view any post in the sections that are labeled PUBLIC. All other sections are MEMBERS ONLY I?ve never adjusted a manual tensioner before. I?m reading all kinds of methods for adjusting. Some people adjust it cold, and then just ride it. Some people get it close and then fine tune it hot. Some people say to remove a ?coffee can of washers noise.I just don?t know if I should still have a ticking or not. Are there two sounds that can be removed or one?I had one of my ktm's for a bit, but being located on the front of the motor made adjusting difficult. Very hard to figure out if i was overtightening or under tightening. On my crf 450's though, it was a breeze. Same on my r6 roadrace engines. easy. The ktm? not so much. it gets dirty (as it's in front of the motor) and is in a tight spot with a hot header in the way of easily getting the allen wrench in there.On my 350 I remove the spark plug cap and the three valve cover bolts so I can lift the cover up enough to see the top run of the cam chain. These engines' chains don't really change a whole lot. 4000 miles on mine last year it didn't need any tightening.I put a DirtTricks tensioner (auto tensioner with ratchet) in my 350 so I don?t have to worry about it any more.I put a DirtTricks tensioner (auto tensioner with ratchet) in my 350 so I don?t have to worry about it any more. I read that: can?t be installed when the bike is new, and some users have had stripped teeth due to incorrect hardening. I mean seriously, if you?re making aftermarket chain tensioners, you have one job: make it bulletproof. Anyway that?s why I want manual. If I learn to adjust it, It?ll never fail and probably never need readjustment. I?ve also read about an OEM one failing when someone rolled backwards on a hill.If a bike rolls downhill, backwards, the motor is still running as normal. OR.
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the motor has stalled. In which case, when you hit the magic button, the oil psi builds again, tensioner is tight, no issue. Even if you roll backwards, engine stalls, and somehow the tire got enough traction to roll the engine over in reverse, a stroke or 2, there is still some oil psi built up that keeps the tensioner tight. It's why when you first start a 4stroke when you arrive for a ride, it bangs about for a few seconds, but notice it doesn't bang about till oil psi builds later in the day as you restart from short breaks. Just ride the bike. It's brand new. I have a ktm with 770 hrs, original tensioner. I have one with 440 hours.I don't personally know of anyone that had a tensioner fail. I've only ever heard of it happening, where it was a credible, actual event, well, never. But not saying it never has happened.It's still hydraulic but has a ratcheting claw that locks into place once it's moved. I installed mine at about 30-35 hours and have had not worries since. Not at 110 hours. I suggest this type over the full manual, because I agree with most of melk-man's comments.I read that: can?t be installed when the bike is new, and some users have had stripped teeth due to incorrect hardening. I?ve also read about an OEM one failing when someone rolled backwards on a hill.Never a single problem with it. I don?t know where you read about stripped teeth, that?s the first I?ve heard of it. Dirttricks products and support have been nothing but first class for me.Now stall on a hill and roll back what happens, the bottom run is tight, the top is flopping, same thing on the hill climb stall, same thing on a high rpm down shift. This is why I got into making an adjustable tensioner. Why do I also make one for he RFS but don't push them for the average rider.If a bike rolls downhill, backwards, the motor is still running as normal. OR. the motor has stalled. But not saying it never has happened. Please click Accept Cookies to continue to use the site.
They are CNC machined from high quality aluminium and anodised in orange with AS3 Performance branding. Something went wrong.User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies, Do not sell my personal information and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. The 2008 and newer four-strokes use a timing chain tensioning device intended to develop its force using the engine oil pressure hydraulically. The OEM components have serious flaws, which can leave the timing chain in a slack condition. This can have disastrous consequences. The Founder of Dirt Tricks developed our timing chain tensioner as a simple, effective, and fail-safe replacement for the OEM tensioner. It correctly captures the oil pressure and uses a positive mechanical ratcheting system to prevent it from collapsing. If you have a “ticking” noise at idle, on your newer 4-stroke, you need this part. Already a member:I left it so i could still push it in slightly (about 1mm). Any help would be awesome thanks.I just used the original ring and left supply alone (it arrived on lunch time and i had to leave to a race at 3pm) Would certainly like to know more about blanking off supply, as it's kind of the reason i bought it - to start solving this oiling issue, although that feed is handy for finding out the oil pressure. I think we need to shim up the pump, test with old tensioner, then put on manual one on and blank supply once we have raised the oil pressure to an acceptable level.Oil pressure check: can be done at the oil filter cover, KTM make a cover with a fitting to allow oil pressure checking there also. Add the 1 mm shim regardless to the oil pump spring. I just used the original ring and left supply alone (it arrived on lunch time and i had to leave to a race at 3pm) Would certainly like to know more about blanking off supply, as it's kind of the reason i bought it - to start solving this oiling issue, although that feed is handy for finding out the oil pressure.
Add the 1 mm shim regardless to the oil pump spring. I must admit i did not notice that O-ring when swapping them out. I need to tare down and wash this morning anyway (was really muddy for 1st race yesterday) so i'll check it out.I'll get around to doing mine shortly, tad busy at the moment. Our payment security system encrypts your information during transmission. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Please try again.Please try again.Please try again later.It is adjustable.Quantity: 1 pieceIn order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. This Includes 2 Strokes: 50 60 65 85 105 125 250 300 550 4 Strokes: 250 350 400 450 500 520 525Register a free business account Please try your search again later.To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. For more information go to: Our CNC machined Manual Cam Chain Tensioner is designed specifically to eliminate the problem of the cam chain jumping and causing engine damage, which can occur with the OEM hydraulically-operated unit due to a sudden drop in oil pressure. Your input is very much appreciated. Share it with your friends so they can enjoy it too. Facebook Twitter Be the first to review this item It does NOT fit my bike.I called your customer service hotline and still couldn't get any confirmation - but I bought them anyway. They fit great. The only other issue was the instructions mentioned a copper washer and my bike didn't use that.It is for the older RFS engines. It fits my 2010 KTM 530 EXC for example.Much stronger and stylish than standard. Much stronger and stylish than standard.
They take the extra time to perfect their items, and this Counter Shaft Protection is an excellent example of their attention to detail.The EVO 2 Tank Kit isn't a complete kit if you have no intentions on fitting the ADV kit. These are the necessary shrouds that attach to the front of the tanks where the side panels of the EVO 2 Adventure Kit would normally attach. The EVO 2 Tank Kit isn't a complete kit if you have no intentions on fitting the ADV kit.Now you're ready to go full rally. This is the kit for you! The bike can be returned to original trim if necessary at a later date. These can be supplied in either left of right-traffic, depending on country of intended use, please specify when ordering. Now you're ready to go full rally.The Kit uses Rally Raid unique Rally-style twin headlight \u0026amp; screen, much-improved lighting output than OEM unit fitted to standard KTM 690 Enduro. Now you're ready to go full rally. The Kit uses Rally Raid unique Rally-style twin headlight \u0026amp; screen, much-improved lighting output than OEM unit fitted to standard KTM 690 Enduro.It includes a black powder coated aluminum cage and stainless steel screw for mounting. It also includes a Hi-Flo Foam Filter to round out the package. Simple as that. It includes a black powder coated aluminum cage and stainless steel screw for mounting.This solid fairing replaces the stock windscreen on your bike without any modifications necessary. This fairing is 50mm lower then the stock windscreen on the Adventure. It has a curved lip at the top to help airflow. Simply bolt on Rally Raid’s Adventure Rally Fairing.This solid fairing replaces the stock windscreen on your bike without any modifications necessary. Simply bolt on Rally Raid’s Adventure Rally Fairing. This solid fairing replaces the stock windscreen on your bike without any modifications necessary. This fairing is 50mm lower then the stock windscreen on the Adventure.
It mounts up to your stock fuel pump and allows you to plumb multiple fuel tank lines together while retaining your stock low fuel indicator on the dash. This way when your bike says it's thirsty, you don't have to remember which tank is screaming for gas. EVO2 Tank Kits come with this adapter. If you intend on mounting Rally Raid's Rear Auxiliary Tank without the installation of their Front Tank Kit, this item is required. EVO2 Tank Kits come with this adapter. It mounts up to your stock fuel pump and allows you to plumb multiple fuel tank lines together while retaining your stock low fuel indicator on the dash. EVO2 Tank Kits come with this adapter.Click Here to Track KTMTwins.com 2780 Via Orange Way Spring Valley, CA 91978. It replaces the OEM hydraulic chain adjuster part number 77036003000. Before you place an Order, to be sure if our offered tensioner fits on your engine, please measure up the OEM tensioner plug size. It should fit on a 19mm socket as shown on the picture. The outer diameter of the whole plug should be 25mm. If your dimensions are different, you'll need a different one (actually in a development stage). - completely eliminates the problem of the timing chain jumping with the OEM hydraulic tensioner, when the oil pressure occasionally drops down (at low revs) - there's nothing to wear out, which we couldn't say about the OEM cam chain tensioner - very precisely CNC machined of aluminium and stainless steel - proudly made in Poland - that's not a chineese, leaking, ingenious technical concept. KTM's use a timing chain tensioning device intended to develop its force using the engine oil pressure hydraulically. The Founder of Dirt Tricks developed the KTM Timing Chain Tensioner as a simple, effective, and fail-safe replacement for the OEM tensioner. If you have a “ticking” noise at idle, you need this part. Was doing valves at 26,000 miles and added these. They work nice.
Just be warned they can be annoying to install in the rear cylinder as it tilts backwards and these slide to the extended position once past vertical. Thick grease or such worked well. Been noticing more rattling noises as of late and figured it was the stock adjusters. Sure enough, through these bad boys in and boom. Sounds like a new bike again. The automatic adjusters can back out when the throttle is closed suddenly at high rpm. Both problems can be eliminated with the installation of the APE manual tensioner. No mater what the engine does, the cam chain tension will remain constant. An APE manual cam chain tensioner is a must for any kind of performance riding. APE manual tensioners are CNC machined from billet alloy to exact tolerances for perfect fit. Something went wrong.Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab See the seller's listing for full details. If you don't follow our item condition policy for returns, you may not receive a full refund. Refunds by law: In Australia, consumers have a legal right to obtain a refund from a business if the goods purchased are faulty, not fit for purpose or don't match the seller's description. More information at returns. Contact the seller - opens in a new window or tab and request postage to your location. Please enter a valid postcode. Please enter a number less than or equal to 20.
All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. The problem is, I don't hear any rattling or wooshing or anything even when the tensioner applying no pressure at all (ie.I hear no difference in sound if I make it loose or tight but there are a lot of noises going on so I'm not sure. So I'm not sure how tight to set it. The instructions for the tensioner say to remove the valve cover and check the movement of the chain. That's kind of a PITA way to set the tension though. Am I missing something? I wiggled the timing chain and it popped loose (probably need to pull the guides out and check them). Now I can clearly hear rattling when the tensioner is loose. The way I do it is. With the rear wheel elevated and in top gear, bump the rear wheel in the normal direction of rotation to turn the engine slowly over. At the same time tighten the manual tensioner by light finger pressure only. While holding it firm in this position with a spanner, lock it in this position with the lock nut. Obviously the lock nut needs to be backed out a bit before commencing the procedure. General guide: A factory mechanical automatic tensioner is generally designed to remove all slack from the chain. Not only just the slack, but maintain a slight tension on the back run of the chain. It has a locking mechanism to prevent it being forced back from that position. As soon as the chain looses any tension the spring should push forward, maintain this tightness and spring tension. And why? Consider what makes the noise if the automatic tensioner is faulty. For my engine (and I suspect most), the answer is not the chain slapping around hitting the case or whatever as is commonly thought. It is due to the loose chain allowing the cams to not roll sweetly due to the cam lobe profile and valve springs.
Any slack in the chain allows the cams to turn in a 'staccato' fashion, momentarily pausing held back by the cam profile and valve spring tension, then speeding up to flip over. The noise generally disappears as the revs increase because the higher rotation speed makes then roll smoother. It is just more pronounced (loud) the looser the chain. Just tightening up the chain till the noise abates may not have completely removed the issue. Only a chain set to eliminate virtually all slack, by feel, with the engine stopped will. A factory mechanical automatic tensioner is generally designed to remove all slack from the chain. Only a chain set to eliminate virtually all slack, by feel, with the engine stopped will. Click to expand. Lots of people would reef on it without the audible indicator, and wear out the guides. Lots of people would reef on it without the audible indicator, and wear out the guides. Click to expand. That is pretty close to how the automatic tensioner does it (it if they worked correctly). The engineers who designed the engine intended the cam chain to be tensioned with zero slack and a very slight tension (maintained by the automatic tensioner). The 'turn in it till it stops rattling' seems a way cruder method to me. If people can't follow the simple procedure of adjusting by hand with the engine stopped, my thinking is they shouldn't even be touching the engine, let alone fitting and adjusting manual cam chain tensioners. Edit: Go back to the OP's first post and what started this thread, he can't even hear a noise to adjust the tensioner by the 'noise method'. What sort of precision is this going to result in. My 25 year old air cooled I4 has more noises going on in the engine than you can 'poke a stick at'. That is pretty close to how the automatic tensioner does it (it if they worked correctly). My 25 year old air cooled I4 has more noises going on in the engine than you can 'poke a stick at'. Click to expand.
The BMWs on the other hand rattle until they get oil pressure because they don't have a lock once they expand. Scares me thinking what if I stall the bike on an incline and accidentally roll backwards in gear with the clutch out?? Having zero tension and an engine turning backwards is a problem. The way I do it is. Obviously the lock nut needs to be backed out a bit before commencing the procedure. Click to expand. Click to expand. A factory mechanical automatic tensioner is generally designed to remove all slack from the chain. Click to expand. I also have an engineering background that helped in understanding the mechanical aspects as well while figuring out what is happening. So take this with the best regards, no slights intended. Chains are not made to run under tension. Proof of this is the underside of the plunger shows polishing due to sliding in and out repeatedly, leaving the chain loose, and there is a visible wear pattern on the teeth where it keeps ratcheting back out. The spring is only strong enough to advance under slack, not hold the plunger out. A spring that can do that would be putting undue pressure on the cam drive. The bad part is eventually if the tensioner allows enough play the chain can jump a tooth at the crank when the front run has all the slack. I will say the noise, considering I tracked it with my mechanic's stethoscope, is the chain tapping on the guides and chain rattling. If there is a manual tensioner it is the guide tapping on the manual tensioner in light rattling. They have a hollow slot end bolt with a pin through it. The head of the pin is on the cam guide end, the tip can be seen in the slot. When the cam drive is loose and clicking the tip of the pin, visible in the slot, is dancing in and out. When the adjuster bolt (which is huge) is turned in slowly the dancing slows down and eventually is gone - as is the tapping sound.
The tensioner is against the slider with virtually no pressure if care is taken in turning the adjuster in. So the rattle is mainly that of the loose chain slapping things around. I wish I could do my tensioners that way, but it would cost a fortune to have bored out bolts and pins. So as I have learned in practice and theory, simply carefully slowly turning the bolt in until the ticking goes away is removing virtually all the clearance to a point where it is a non-issue. My SR cam drive adjustment convinced me that is the proper method to use to be so close as to be within less than your valve clearance in adjustment on the cam drive. I also have an engineering background that helped in understanding the mechanical aspects as well while figuring out what is happening. Click to expand. What are the advantages of being able to see the in and out movement of the pin in that type of tensioner? 4) I wonder about the reason for the seemingly excessive length of the central bolt and its generous thread in the aluminum body of the manual tensioners that are commercially available.What are the advantages of being able to see the in and out movement of the pin in that type of tensioner? 4) I wonder about the reason for the seemingly excessive length of the central bolt and its generous thread in the aluminum body of the manual tensioners that are commercially available. Click to expand. It is barely taking all play out of the cam drive erring to the loose side if at all. Only ticking might be when cold and just started. The play disappears as everything expands as it heats up. I usually try to cut it down a bit. I probably could go 10mm shorter on the adjuster, but having it longer hurts nothing. In 17 years of running a manual tensioner on my 650 I don't think it has been turned in more than 2 turns if that much. As for the thread length of the body, again it dosn't hurt having more thread than less.It isn't centered.
I've read about 40 different methods of adjusting a manual tensioner, and your analysis makes more sense than anything I've seen anywhere else. Although I've been a auto mechanic for decades, bike work is still a bit of a black art to me. I've been steeling myself to install a manual tensioner on an old CBR all winter, and after reading your post I may now find the balls to do it. It is better to be a shade loose. By the way, same style drive chain as in most OHV V-8s from the past - HyVo. They run a shade loose in cars.