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International Conference of Building Officials. There shall be a ridge board at least 1-inch (25Trimmer andThe ends of headerWhere not parallel, raftersThe maximum span of 2-inchThe maximumStruts shall not be smaller than 2-inch by 4-inch (51 mm by 102 mm) members. The unbraced length of struts shall not exceed 8 feet (2438 mm) and the minimumThe tables follow this section. Strongbacks are notCeiling joists cannot be usedCeiling joists 2 x 6 and larger should be solidlyThe opening shall beThe opening shall be located in a corridor. For more information see our disclosures here. An illustrated guide to roof construction, including basic types of roofs and a roofing glossary This roof framing diagram illustrates how a hip roof is built. This roof has horizontal battens for tile or metal. Houses have gable, hipped, mansard, gambrel, flat, and shed roofs. Many homes combine roof types on one roof. It’s quite common, for example, to see a hipped roof with gable dormers. Roof shape is one of the key factors in setting the architectural style of a house. Roof shape also dictates how difficult and costly a roof will be to build and how it will serve the house. For example, flat, shed, and, in some cases, gable roofs tend to be relatively affordable to build. Roof framing can be simple or complex, depending on the roof. Overhangs, hips, and dormers add greatly to the complexity of the framing. Stick-framed roofs utilize individual rafters that span from the top of exterior walls to the ridge. Stick framing creates a triangle between the rafters and ceiling joists. A collar beam adds strength to the triangle at the middle. Stick framing combines roof rafters with ceiling joists. Most roofs utilize 16-inch spacings for strength and rigidity. The rafters are usually positioned directly above the wall studs. Truss construction is just as strong but is lighter weight and uses smaller sizes of lumber than stick framing.
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Because trusses are carefully engineered units that shouldn’t be cut, they are not a good choice for roofs that may be modified at a later date. And because they have several intermediate support members, they don’t allow for use of the attic space. Complex roof, like the one shown below, are usually stick-framed. He appeared for 3 seasons on HGTV’s “The Fix,” and served as MSN’s home expert for several years. Don founded HomeTips in 1996. Read more about Don Vandervort Next See: Patio Roof Cover Sheds Water, Allows Natural Light How to Install Fiberglass Insulation Like a Pro Are Solar Panels Right for Your Home. How to Protect Your Home from Rainwater Damage Tagged framing roof roof framing roofs Search for: As an Amazon Associate, HomeTips earns from qualifying purchases which allows us to continue creating helpful DIY content. There are two common ways of framing the roof of a house: with premanufactured trusses, or with rafters and ceiling joists, commonly called stick framing. While truss roofs are the most popular construction style today — by some estimates, truss roofs outnumber stick-frame roofs two to one— there are regions of the country where builders still prefer stick-frame roofing. There are several reasons for this. One of the most common is that with a site-built roof, it’s easier to customize the roofline. Builders sometimes also prefer this construction method when they want to provide a large attic space or high, vaulted ceilings (often called cathedral ceilings). However, constructing a stick-framed roof is not always easy. For example, in Texas where stick framing is common, there are entire crews specializing only in framing roofs. Whether it’s because of the growing size of houses, or because roofs are getting more complicated, the code requirements for stick framing roofs have become more complex over the years, too.
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Meeting current IRC roof framing requirements means builders are really constructing very simple triangles using the rafters and ceiling joists, because triangles are known to be the most stable shape. In order to maintain the triangle shape, there are specific requirements for how to fasten the corners of the triangle together. Most importantly, the bottom of each triangle (the ceiling joists), must be fastened securely to the rafters on each end and must continue across the entire width of the ceiling so they keep the ends of the rafters from spreading out when loaded. (See illustration.) Also because of this triangle shape, the connection of rafters to the ridge board is easy because all the weight of the roof is assumed to transfer down to the bearing at the top plate. That’s why the ridge board is nonstructural and can consist of 1x lumber. However, there are a couple of cases where the bottom leg of the triangles (the ceiling joists) might not be present or might not connect rafters together. The first case is when the ceiling joists are oriented perpendicular to the rafters. The other common case is the cathedral or vaulted ceiling. The load-resisting concepts of the vaulted ceiling are completely different. Without the tie at the bottom, the rafters must be supported at their upper end to prevent the rafter thrust at the lower end. Since half the load is now supported at the ridge, the ridge member becomes a ridge beam that is a load-carrying element, and must be designed to bridge the span between the supports, which carry the vertical load to the ground. This requires a secure connection of the rafters to the ridge beam at the top. Furthermore, if the vaulted roof is constructed as a hip roof, things get even more complicated. Not only must the ridge beam be supported, but the top ends of the hips must also be supported. And the rafters must have a secure connection to the hips.
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Simpson Strong-Tie recently developed three products that can greatly simplify the construction of these types of roofs. They’re designed to provide strong, simple connections at three points of the roof that often don’t get the structural reinforcement they deserve. Rafter-to-Hip or Rafter-to-Valley Connections The LSSJ field-adjustable jack hanger is the ideal hanger for connecting jack rafters to hip or valley members. The LSSJ is designed with a versatile, hinged seat allowing for easy field adjustment to typical rafter slopes, from 0:12 of 12:12. Best of all, it can be installed after the jack rafter is temporarily fastened in place. Note that the LSSJ is available in both right and left skews to cover all the applications. Rafter-to-Ridge Connections The LRUZ rafter hanger is an economical sloped hanger for rafter-to-ridge connections. Used with solid sawn rafters, the LRUZ’s design enables the hanger to be installed either before or after the rafter is in place. The field-adjustable seat helps improve job efficiency by eliminating mismatched angles in the field and lead times associated with special orders. The LRUZ offers a load capacity comparable to or better than other rafter hangers’ capacities at a reduced cost while requiring fewer fasteners. Hip-to-Ridge Connections The HHRC hip-ridge connector is a heavy, field-slopeable connector that attaches hip and other roof beams to the end of a ridge beam. Used in combination, these new connectors make it astonishingly easy to build strong roofs without relying on premanufactured trusses. View job postings Ask a Technical Question If you have a technical or product question, you can contact us. Stay Connected Have new blog posts emailed to you and stay up-to-date with the latest news from Simpson Strong-Tie. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website.
We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. Necessary Necessary Always Enabled Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information. Non-necessary Non-necessary Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. Here we describe Canadian roof framing guidelines. High collar ties won't prevent these problems. Since these ties are in compression and subject to buckling, ties more than 2.4 m (8 ft.) long should be supported against lateral deflection. Our associate, Al Carson points out that That can explain why a steeper roof resists sagging more than a low-slope roof. For different-pitched roofs using rafters of identical length, the steeper roof rafters will actually be spanning less distance. For low slope roofs or where there are no ceiling joists, all sources require other roof support such as a structural ridge beam or a supporting cripple wall, knee wall, or dwarf wall. - Ed. I added the Imperial measurements in blue. Apologies for the delay. Comment Form is loading comments. Mr. DeBaggis has served in the Easton MA. Building Department since 2002, has worked as a building trades instructor, and also writes about land use regulations, building regulations, and standards.
He is a past president of Southeastern Mass. Building Officials and is currently writing a book on the Massachusetts building code. International University in Miami, was. Florida’s official damage assessment team.. After Hurricane Andrew, Florida code advisers ruled OSB sheathing inferior to plywood Oak Forest Il. 60452 -. Paul Fisette. International University in Miami, was.Sun Praire, WI 53590 USA, 608-837-2790. TECO provides a reference library of.PDF files that can be downloaded by consumers, homeowners, builders, and architects. The association refers to industry standards for oriented strand board OSB products as:ISBN-10: 0471648361, ISBN-13: 978-0471648369, Hardcover: 320 pages, available from Amazon.com and also Wiley.com. See our book review of this publication. Ed Seaquist was among the first speakers invited to a series of educational conferences organized by D Friedman for ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors, where the topic of inspecting the in-service condition of building structures was first addressed. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10 discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Or choose the The HOME REFERENCE eBook for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones. Special Offer: For a 5 discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
Using the roof of a small outbuilding as an example, Carroll first locates the six king common rafters, then uses a table of rafter multipliers to determine the common-rafter lengths. He then determines the run and length of the hip rafters and jack rafters. Full-color illustrations accompany the article, highlighting Carroll’s hip-roof process. The process became a whole lot easier for me when I realized that the primary challenge in building a hip roof is one of layout, not math. And the key to layout is to know exactly where to begin and end measurements. This is not the way I learned how to do it, but once I started thinking about the bottom plane of the rafters instead of the top (or instead of some theoretical middle line), everything fell into place. Because I measure and mark along the bottom of the rafters, where I measure to is where I cut from; and because there are fewer steps, there are fewer chances for mistakes. This left the tops of the jacks 1 ?4 in. above the hip, which allows the sheathing to clear the hip and allows air to flow over the hip and up to the ridge vent.In my approach, the metric system is easier to use when math is involved because there are no fractions to deal with. The math itself is simple to calculate because every rafter position and measurement can be explained with right triangles and dimensions that are based on the Pythagorean theorem. The project shown here is a simple storage shed.I lay it on the top plate of the end wall and mark out the common-rafter run, the wall thickness (for the seat cut), and the eave overhang. The beauty of the story stick is that I can have all the initial measurements I need to frame the roof in one place. Then I can take the story stick down to the cut station and use it to make all the cuts without having to waste time running back and forth. To keep reading, become a member today. Roofs are basically five types: shed, gable, hip, gambrel and mansard.
Another common design in the Northeast is the “saltbox,” which is a gable roof with one longer side. These days “cut-ups,” or roofs with a lot of valleys, dormers and other features, are increasingly popular. In many cases with purchased house plans, the details of the roof construction, including rafter design, are included. Pre-constructed trusses have also become increasingly popular. They are constructed at a factory to match your building and delivered on site. They do, however, require extra manpower and lifting equipment to install in place. You can also build your own trusses if you have the equipment, or can rent the equipment to install them. Simple roofs, such as a shed or the common gable, are fairly easy to construct, even without plans, if you understand the basics and a little geometry. The gable is the most common, and it can be complicated with multiple roof lines, including valleys and dormers. For a shed roof you only need to know the rise, span and line length. Span is the measurement across the building from outside supporting wall to outside supporting wall. Run is half the distance of the span. Rise is the measurement from the centerline of the span to the top of the roof line. Line length is the measurement from the outside of the supporting wall line to the centerline of the roof at the top of the rise. Basically you’re working with a triangle with two legs and the line length for a hypotenuse. The rise, or height of the roof at its peak, is the altitude of the triangle; the run, or half the building span, is the base of the triangle; and the line length, measurement from the roof peak to the building wall, is the hypotenuse. Pitch is the slope or angle from the wall plate to the roof ridge line. Pitch can vary a great deal, from a shallow slope up to a very steep pitch. Pitch also has its own denotation, determined by the rise in inches in 12 inches. Having the correct pitch is important.
In many instances, a certain pitch may be necessary or even required by local codes. Pitch is determined by snow loads, other weather factors and the covering to be applied to the roof. For those in the northern parts of the country, an 8 in 12 pitch, or more, is commonly used to keep excessive snow loads off the roof. Those in the southern climates may utilize lower pitches. For lower pitches, a built-up or continuous roll roofing must be applied to keep the roof waterproof. A framing square is traditionally used for laying out the roof and determining pitch. After you determine the rise, span, run, line length and pitch, the next step is to lay out the rafters, or mark the cuts on a pattern rafter to create the roof. We will show two methods of laying out rafters; one using a traditional framing (2-foot) square, and the second using the new C.H. Hanson Pivot Square. Multiply this by the run of the building. We’re using 10 feet in this example, excluding the overhang.You should make this first pattern rafter on the straightest board you can find. If there is any curve in the board, lay out the rafter so the crown is up or facing away from you. Experience has shown that the weight of the roof will gradually flatten this crown. (If the crown were to be positioned down, the roof could eventually sag.) Then lay out the rafter as shown on the next page. Position the square with both the 8 inch on the outside edge of the tongue and the 12 inch on the blade on the upper edge of the board. Mark along the backside of the tongue. This is the plumb cut for the roof ridge. Holding the square in the same position as before, mark down to the side of the tongue. This marks the plumb cut at the inside of the house wall for the notch (called a bird’s mouth) to seat the rafter one the wall plate. Note the square is turned over. In the example shown this is 12 inches. Cut the rafter at the ridge line and at the overhang line.
Determine the wall thickness or depth of the bird’s mouth cut and make a mark. Cut the notch, first with a handsaw or portable circular saw, and then finish the cut with a handsaw. Continue moving down the rafter and marking plumb cuts, including any odd figures. Then lay the rafters out on a smooth, flat surface, with a 2-by between them at the ridge line. Measure to make sure the rise, run and span are correct. You may wish to test these on the building before cutting the rest of the rafters. Once you’re sure these two pattern rafters are correctly cut, mark them as patterns and mark and cut the necessary number of rafters. If the building has hanging or “fly” rafters for the gable ends, cut them as well. They do not, however, have the bird’s mouth cut. A number of years ago I was constructing a two-story building. One carpenter laid out and began to cut the rafters. He became ill from the extreme heat of the day and another carpenter took over for the last third of the rafters. When the roof framing was completed and decking installed, there was a built-in sag. I don’t know if the second carpenter didn’t use the pattern rafter, or simply wasn’t as precise, but it was a costly mistake. I wish I had this tool a number of years and buildings ago. This quality tool is basically a small “adjustable” square. It comes with its own heavy-duty belt holder that is also designed to hold a carpenter’s pencil and the instruction booklet. Degrees and rise are marked on a blade attached to the pivoting arm. With the common rise figures facing you, and the raised fence on the right, the bottom represents the base of the triangle (the run) and the right side the altitude (the rise). The long adjustable edge represents the hypotenuse of the triangle, or the line length. Simply adjust the square to the desired pitch and lock in place with the knurled knob. You can then use the square to transfer the angle for the cut to the lumber.
Or you can hold the square in place and use it as a sturdy guide for running a portable circular saw. One great feature is that the pitch is also marked on the tool in degrees of angle. Determine the pitch, then you can set a miter saw or compound miter saw to make cuts in degrees that conform to the desired pitch. These figures are determined on the back side of the square. This tool takes a lot of the figuring and guessing out of creating hips and valleys. And, the tool is even more versatile and can be used for other cuts as well. A series of numbers run along the center of the graduated arc of the adjustable blade on both sides of the tool. Each of these numbers represents the complement of the corresponding angle along the edge. The sum of these two figures always equal 90 degrees. For instance, when you set the square for 20 degrees, the complementary angle of 70 is directly aligned. You can make the 20-degree cut following the set angle, flip the tool over and make the complementary 70-degree cut to create a perfect 90 degrees. The square also comes with three leveling vials which make it easy to measure the pitch of existing structures. To measure pitch, first position the hypotenuse of the square on the roof, running straight up the pitch. Make sure it’s not off angle because of the shingle edges. You may use a 4-foot level to set it on for more accurate measurements. The outer end, or number 9 on the hypotenuse or adjustable blade, should be at the top or upper side of the pitch. Loosen the lock and adjust the square until the level vial on the base reads level, then lock the setting. You can now read the pitch and degrees on the “Deg. Common Rise” scale of the square. Common Rise scale. Position the square with the base or raised edge on top of the rafter board. Mark the plumb line for the ridge line cut near the end of the rafter board. Determine the rafter overhang, move the square to that position and make another plumb cut mark.
To create the bird’s mouth cut, position the square at the bottom of the middle plumb line with the altitude side against the plumb cut and mark across the board using the square base, and beginning at the bottom of the plumb cut. Then use the square to draw a short plumb line parallel to the others, down from this mark to the bottom edge of the board. This completes the bird’s mouth layout. Hold the square in place with the base along the plumb cut line, and mark the level line of the bird’s mouth. Position the square in place and mark for the cut. This requires laying out a level line on the tail of the rafter. To do this, do not make the tail cut until this has been established. Draw the sub fascia and finish fascia board on the end of the rafter and against the plumb tail cut. Use the bottom edges of these boards to mark the level line cut. Again, once all cuts have been marked, cut the pattern rafters, test and you’re ready to erect the roof framing. Lay these out as shown. These should be the height of the building walls, plus the rise. Use only enough supports for the first length of ridge board. Rip the ridge board to the correct width to meet the rafter widths at the ridge. Create a saddle at the top with the braces the height of the building walls, plus rise, less the width of the ridge board. Brace these supports in the centerline of the building. Position a ridge board down in the saddles of the supports. Align the top plumb cut with the ridge board, and align the heal cut of the bird’s mouth with the inside of the wall. Nail the rafter in place. As the rafters are installed, add any supports needed or required by code, such as collar ties or center supports. Continue erecting rafters until you reach the end of the firs piece of ridge board. Then move the temporary braces for the next ridge board and continue installing rafters. They are notched to fit around the gable-end rafters.
After the sheathing is installed, hanging or “fly” rafters are then installed. Remove the temporary collar ties. EHT Spotlight Armstrong-Clark Wood Stains Armstrong’s deck and siding wood stain has nondrying conditioning oils that separate from the drying side of the formula. These oils penetrate deep into the deck or siding wood fiber where the wood’s natural oils used to be. This process rejuvenates the wood.All Right Reserved. To help you through the process we’ve compiled some of our favorite articles and videos from the Fine Homebuilding archives to help you complete a textbook, code-complaint roof every time. To keep reading, become a member today. The rise and run of the Conventional framing of roofs falls under the headingAnyone who has ever tried framing a roof can tell you it is a fine tuned skill that can only be acquired with experience. Many a carpenter has been frustrated by this seemingly dying art. Even though conventional framingThe modern day truss manufacturer can build them to match nearly any conventional roof. But not always. You should be able to avoid problems such as, delivery costs, site space restrictions, also single framing members are lighter than a whole truss. Free Calculator Download Sorry MAC user's, this is only for windows. If you familiarize yourself with the components that make up the rafter it should assist you in this roof framing task. The building width is 24' with a. Determine Length of Common Rafter Determine Span: This is accomplished by measuring the overall width of the building where rafters are to sit. In our case this is 24 feet I use the American Wood Council rafter span calculator.There is also an online rafter calculator. I always take the width of the ridge In this case we will be When roof framing always use the next larger size lumber than rafters for the ridge board to achieve full bearing.
After adding the length of the tail we When ordering lumber do not Place stock on saw horses with the crown of the lumber facing away from you. Place framing square on rafter as shown This is where the common rafter Slide the framing square up and down the rafter Always Check Local Building Codes. The current custom error settings for this application prevent the details of the application error from being viewed remotely (for security reasons). It could, however, be viewed by browsers running on the local server machine.