Cleat squeaks can come from a number of different sources such as the cleat to shoe interface, the cleat to pedal interface, or from the binding mechanism housed in either the pedal or cleat. We'll address these issues one at a time. With the quick lessons shown in this video, noisy cleats will be a thing of the past. Don't forget to explore the rest of our Learning Center for more great instructional videos. Once your bike is all set up, make sure none of your components will hold you back. Check out our wide selection of bicycle components over at ArtsCyclery.com.

Step 1: Tighten down the cleat to the manufacturer's recommended torque value to limit cleat flex and the creaking it generates.

Tighten Cleat

Step 2: Greasing cleat bolt threads and underneath the bolt head can also help to quiet down flexing cleats.
Step 3: If you use Speedplay pedals, make sure that your cleats are properly shimmed so that they do not become warped when they are tightened down, as this is a common source of creaks.
Step 4: At the cleat to pedal interface, most creaks are the result of worn out cleats that rock on the pedal body. If the colored wear areas on your cleats are worn down, it's a good time to replace them.
Step 5: Lubricate the contact points where the cleat and pedal meet with a dry chain lube. Rock ÔN Roll Absolute Dry chain lube is a good example of the type of lube you want to use. Just keep in mind that a little goes a long way and that you need to wait for the solvents to evaporate before you ride in order for the lube to remain in place.

Grease Cleat Threads

Step 6: Follow this same procedure on your cleats if you use Speedplay pedals. Clean out the spring/cleat interface and then lubricate it with a dry lube.

Bike maintenance is something we take seriously here at Art's Cyclery. We want to make sure your bike functions perfectly every time you go out for a ride. Whether you're riding mountain or road, we'll be there every step of the way to make sure you have the best cycling experience possible.

Presta Valve

Air doesn't escape from your tire at all. There's a common misunderstanding of where the lost air is coming from when you remove the pump head from the valve, as it's likely all from the pump hose itself.

Presta Pump

With a Presta valve, the air pressure inside the tube is what keeps the valve shut. When the pressure inside the pump is greater than the pressure inside the tube, the valve opens and air flows into the tube until the pressure equalizes. This design ensures that there are no moving parts inside the pump head required to push the valve open when pressurizing the inner tube that could then hold the valve open during the fraction of a second that the pump head seal is broken and the valve core is depressed.

Us mechanics here at Art's Cyclery prefer to use Presta specific pump heads because they do not have the internal mechanical component that holds the valve open, unlike most dual purpose pump heads that are designed to work for the Presta and Schrader Valves.

Breaking a chain is everyone's worst nightmare but in reality it only slows you down if you don't have the tools and know-how to repair it. This informational video shows you how to repair a damaged mountain chain using a homemade chain tensioner tool. Be sure to check out the first video in this series where we show you how to make the chain tensioner tool out of a coat hanger. The faster you get this trick down, the faster you can get back to riding. Then, when you finally get back home from that long ride, be sure to check out Art's Cyclery for a brand new mountain chain.

Step 1: Identify the damaged links and move the rear derailleur into the forward and locked position.

Step 2: Use a chain tool to remove the chain pin of the last link of the section of damaged chain and Òbreak the chainÓ.

Chain Tool

Step 3: Identify where the damaged chain starts. Make sure to match the new, undamaged starting link with the link you removed previously. Use a chain tool to only push the pin out partially so you can re-use it.

Step 4: Use the homemade chain tensioner tool to hold the chain together. Orient it on the top of the chain so you can work on the chain.

Chain Tensioner

Step 5: Push the pin back into the chain using the chain tool and make sure your chain flexes freely.

Bike maintenance is something we take seriously here at Art's Cyclery. We want to make sure your bike functions perfectly every time you go out. Whether you're on a mountain bike, or a road bike, we'll be there every step of the way to make sure you have the best experience possible. While there are many great methods to wrap finishing tape, this method has worked well for us without fail. Most finishing tape issues stem from using the finishing tape to cover both the handlebar tape and the handlebar. Because the taped portion of the bar is uneven and larger in diameter than the handlebar, the finishing tape has to be stretched to achieve a wrinkle free application. The adhesive on the finishing tape is not strong enough to hold this position and nearly always ends up unwinding and losing tension.

Loose Tape

Our way around this is to apply the finishing tape to the handlebar tape only. Electrical tape will work just fine with this method. Just be sure to choose a high quality tape from a reputable brand like 3M. The good tapes have better adhesive and conform better to irregularities in the handlebar tape. You'll be able to have that perfect, pro look to your handlebars with our finishing tape tutorial video. Don't forget to explore the rest of our Learning Center for more great instructional videos. Once your bike is all set up, make sure none of your components will hold you back.

Handlebar and Tape

Step 1: We'll start the installation by cutting a long tail on the tape that creates a square edge to the end of the handlebar tape. This tail should extend roughly all the way around the bar.
Step 2: Apply the electrical tape to the tail of the handlebar tape about an inch up from the tip. Pull the tape tight and begin wrapping the handlebar.
Step 3: We like to make a total of 3 laps around the bar, so begin by pulling the electrical tape tightly enough that it stretches just a little for the first 2 laps. Then, for the last lap I don't stretch the tape at all. This prevents the tape from unraveling and leaving a mess on your handlebar.
Step 4: Cut the tape so that the seam is on the underside of the bar just in front of the cables. If you go over the cables, that bulge will make the edge of the finishing tape want to peel off, so just avoid it.
Step 5: Now go ride and get that new tape dirty!

Tools for the job

2.5 weight suspension fluid
Torx keys
Reverb bleed syringes
Paper cloth
Degreaser
It’s important to note that Reverb dropper posts require a specific 2.5 weight hydraulic fluid that’s not the same as brake fluid. So make sure you purchase the right product – it will come as part of a bleed kit though.

How to bleed a RockShox Reverb dropper seatpost

1. Prepare

Fully extend the Reverb, then adjust the angle of the bike so that the actuator is higher than the top of the post – you may find this easier to do if you clamp the bike in a workstand.

Adjust the angle of the bike so that the actuator is higher than the top of the post: adjust the angle of the bike so that the actuator is higher than the top of the post
Undo the mounting bolt, and position the actuator so the bleed port is at the highest point, then turn the speed adjuster to the slowest position.

Fill one of the syringes three quarters full – hold it upright and gently push the plunger to remove any air bubbles.

Hydraulic Fluid

Fill one of the syringes three quarters full: fill one of the syringes three quarters full
Remove the actuator bleed screw and attach the filled syringe. Undo the lug screw on the seatpost and screw in the other, empty syringe.

2. Purge system

Hold both syringes bottom-up and gently push on the the one with fluid in while easing the plunger on the other one out.This forces any air that is present in the system into the empty syringe.

When you have emptied the syringe on the actuator side, unscrew the now-full syringe from the seatpost, give it a tap and remove any air from it. Screw it back in and push the fluid back through the system as before, pulling up on the syringe that is being filled.

Again, make sure the syringes are upright – cycle the fluid between them until there is no air flowing in as you pull the plunger out.

Cycle the fluid between the two syringes until no air is flowing in as you pull the plunger out: cycle the fluid between the two syringes until no air is flowing in as you pull the plunger out
When you’re happy there is no more air in the system, push in the seatpost side fully and unscrew, then return the bleed screw.

Bleed actuator

Hold the syringe upright, as before, and gently pull on the plunger to ensure there is no more air present. Press in the actuator while pulling up on the plunger of the syringe, then push down on the plunger as you allow the actuator to return to its normal position. Repeat this process five to 10 times to ensure there is no air inside the actuator.

Turn the speed adjuster fully to the fast (or '+') position, then back to slow – repeat this three times and leave in the fast position (or '+') direction. Again, pull up on the plunger to remove air.

Push on the plunger and return the speed adjuster to the slow position. Push in the actuator, then apply pressure on the syringe, slowly releasing the actuator to its extended position. You can now unscrew the syringe and return the bleed port screw.

Clean up any oil with paper cloth and degreaser, and return the actuator to the desired position on the bars.

Clean up using degreaser and paper cloth: clean up using degreaser and paper cloth
You can now set your seatpost to the required height and adjust the speed controller. Finally, give the system a test and you’re ready to ride.