How to Route Brake Cable Hose on RockShox RS-1 Fork

RS-1 Brake Hose Routing:

Proper brake hose routing on the RS-1 is important to make sure your hose is not rubbing on your wheel or tire, and to make sure the brake hose is not damaging the finish of your new fork.

Before you begin, make sure that your front brake hose is cut to the appropriate length.

First, install the front brake caliper onto your fork. Now, route your front brake hose through the two guide clips included in your RS-1 packet one at a time. Once the hose is inside the clips, attach each clip to the guide bases that are on the fork by pressing down from the top.

Route the Front Brake Hose through Provided Guide Clips

Now is the crucial moment to check the brake house routing. You might want to let some air out of your fork because you want to bottom out the fork during this process. Compress the fork a few times and watch the brake hose as it slides through the guides on the fork. In the vast majority of cases, the hose should not rub or contact the tire or wheel, or your carbon fiber upper. In case you are experiencing this issue, fine tune the hose path by adjusting the banjo of your brake caliper.

We have found that the hose in the 2 o’clock position when viewed from the caliper side of the fork is a good position for most setups. However, a different setup might be better for your bike.

the 2 o’clock position when viewed from the caliper side of the fork is a good position for most setups

If you simply can’t prevent the hose from touching the carbon upper, you should also have a protective sheet of decals with your RS-1 fork. Attach one of these decals to the affected area.

Your hose is now correctly routed!

How to Assemble a Ritchey Break-Away Bike

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A lot of engineering has gone into making the Ritchey Break-Away Bike easy for you to assemble and ride.

The first couple times you assemble yours, make sure you take your time and get it down. The more you do it, the faster you’ll get. You will need an allen wrench set and a pedal wrench depending on the pedal type. A Ritchey torque key is recommended but not required.

Start by removing all the various pieces from the case and organizing them in front of you. If supplied, save any protective devices that you can use later and will help keep the bike protected during transit. Remove the tube pads from the two frame pieces and the protective covering from the cranks, as well as the elastic chain protector.

Position clamp ends so they face upwards

First, reinsert the skewers into each wheel. Then begin the main assembly by placing the two frame pieces into position. Install the seat post through the two pieces to join them. This helps align the lower part of the frame. Bring the two frame pieces together at the base of the down tube. Wrap the clamp around the two halves of the frame, positioning it so that the clamp ends face upwards. Make sure the bolt goes through the side of the clamp without the threads first. Use a 4mm allen wrench and completely tighten it down until snug. There should be an even gap in the clamp. If the ears of the clamp ever begin to touch that’s a sign of wear.

Be sure to check for wear on clamps

Next, align your saddle and position the seat post sat the desired height. Tighten it with a 5mm allen wrench. Set the chain in the rear chainring and install the wheel in the drops. Tighten and close the skewer. Put the front wheel on next, then tighten and close the skewer in the same manner.

When installing cables, tighten the splitter slightly, then feed cables through cable stops, and then fully tighten splitters

Remove the stem from the handlebar clamp. Put the bars in place, then insert and tighten the bolts by hand. Remove the front brake bolt and reattach the brake to the fork. When attaching the rear brake cable, begin by attaching the splitter part way. Put the cable in the cable housing stop then tighten the splitter completely. Attach derailleur cables in a similar fashion.

Lastly, put on your pedals. Check that the brakes are working properly, and you’re good to go!

Install YNOT Pedal Straps

This video will show you how to install a pair of YNOT pro straps.

The straps are made of two pieces: a top and a bottom. The bottom half is made out of 3 layers of heavy duty nylon, which increases the stiffness. The top half is made of 1000d cordura, with two inches of hook velcro.

YNOT Pedal Straps

To install your new straps, send the two ends on the bottom through the platform of your pedal, then cinch down on your velcro, and be sure to test by putting your foot inside. An important step of getting the straps to fit right is to adjust them while your foot is in place. Ideally, it will create a wedge similar to the shape of your foot. Pull the straps tight while your foot is in place.

For Best Fit Tighten Straps While Foot is in Place

K-Edge Chain Catcher Overview

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You saw it happen to Andy Schleck in the 2010 Tour de France, a dropped chain could be the difference between winning and losing. It's also a great way to keep your frame from getting the bottom bracket area to look like the bike in the video. It's simple, it's light, and a fairly inexpensive insurance policy that you'll be happy to have.

If you’ve spent a lot of money on a bike and you do any kind of racing, there is a really cool product that can come in handy called the K-Edge Chain Catcher.

A dropped chain can easily destroy your frame

This happens to everybody: your riding around, you hit a bump as you’re shifting, or your derailleur gets banged around while you are transporting your bike, and you drop your chain. If you drop your chain in a race, you have to get off your bike and put it back on. Not only that, but it can really tear up your frame as well. The K-Edge Chain Catcher will make it so that doesn’t happen to you.

K-Edge Chain Catcher prevents your chain from dropping

With the chain catcher installed, if it ever drops, all you have to do is pedal and it’s back on.

Install Cane Creek Double Barrel Shock

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How to install the double barrel onto your frame:

If you are installing the shock on a nice frame it can be a good idea to protect it. This can be done with a piece of foam or something similar that you can wedge up behind the linkage to stop the shock from bottoming up against the paint.

Load Double Barrel Shock in Front Frame Mount First

Your double barrel will come equipped with mounting spacers for the specific frame. They will be measured to fit the width of the tab upfront and the linkage in the rear.

Tighten Mounting Bolt in Rear Linkage

First step, mount it in the front. Take the mounting bolt, push it through, carefully set the shock down, put the washer and nut on the other side to secure it .Now you can mount in the back. Slide it between the linkage, take your mounting bolt and install in linkage until its tight.

How to Install a Cane Creek Spring on a Double Barrel Rear Shock

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How to remove a spring from your shock:

First, remove the lower hard wear out of the eyelet to allow the spring to pass through or over the outlet. Now take the pre-load collar and go counter clockwise. You can use a double barrel spanner if it is really tight for more leverage on the collar. Once it is loose, bring the collar all the way to the top, press the spring clip forward in the spring, which should give you some clearance to pull the clip out. Once the clip is removed, pull the spring off, change your spring, wipe away any grit and grime, and now reinstall.

Use Double Barrel Adjustment Tool to Move Collar to Top

When you reinstall, install the spring clip, make sure the open end of the spring clip is 180 degrees away from the open end of the spring coil. This will give it more support. Install, rotate, and everything will clip back into the eyelet. Now turn the collar to where it engages.

Make Sure Spring Clip is 180 Degrees from End of Spring Coil

Bike Tube Valve Stem Extender Installation

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Valve Stem Extension Tutorial:

The only tool you’re going to need to accomplish this extension installation is a pair of needle nose pliers and the tire of choice or inner tube if it has a removable valve core.

Screw threaded side of valve extender into original valve stem

The first step to install your extension is to simply remove the valve core of the tire or inner tube you’re working with. Sometimes you will need the pliers to break it free. Take the valve extender, the side with the threaded portion, insert it into the valve stem of your tube, take your need nose pliers and give it a quarter turn, just to make sure it is securely fastened. Pick up your valve core, and reinsert it into the end of your valve extender. Get it finger tight, then give it a quarter turn with the needle nose pliers, and now you’re ready to install your tire with the valve extension.

Assure valve stem tightness with needle nose pliers

FSA's Top of the Line K-Force Light Crankset

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FSA Cranksets are sought by both professional and amateur riders because of their light weight, high stiffness, and great power transfer.

FSA K-Force Light Carbon Crankset

Thanks to over two years of research and design from FSA engineers and designers, FSA has revolutionized the next generation of top-of-the-line K Force Cranksets. Goals were to increase stiffness, optimize shifting precision, and decrease weight. The solution was a total change in the design of the product in order to reach lighter weight, the highest stiffness, and optimal loading distribution during the pedal stroke. A novel 5-arm asymmetric spider, with one arm hidden behind the crank arm, in addition to the best technology, super lightweight, maximum stiffness, and winning graphics make the new K-Force Light Crankset a perfect product: a highly technological and very attractive crankset.

Hidden bolts and a mass spindle result in clean, elegant, and continuous surfaces

A unique design was created with modern and alluring lines that draw upon the jewel like luster of the UD carbon, while, at the same time, respecting the aerodynamics and the lightness of the engineered product. Hidden bolts and a mass spindle result in clean, elegant, and continuous surfaces. After many tests and experiments, engineers established that the configuration with an asymmetrical 5-arm spider, with one arm hidden, was a perfect solution to the distribution of the crankset. This technology is referred to as ABS or asymmetric bolt spacing. Symmetric bolt spacing has been proven to provide poorer stress distributions in comparison.

ASB or Asymmetrical Bolt Spacing, with one arm hidden behind the crank arm, makes for better stress distribution

This configuration with ABS allows an increase in the stiffness of the crankset, giving big benefits to the riding and shifting. In addition, newly designed ABS chainrings have optimized teeth profiles and shift rams, which result faster, smoother, and more precise shifting.

Guide: Why Ride Compact Cranks

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Compact Crank vs. Standard

If you want to be a good climber, go with compact. All the best climbers in the world use compact cranks, and it is especially recommended when the road gets steep and the cadence is dropped.

50 x 34 Shimano Dura Ace 9000 Compact Crankset

Compact crank refers to the size of the chainrings. On this dura ace 9000 compact crank, the outside is a 50 teeth chainring and the inside a 34. With the dura ace, you can switch between compact and standard cranks without having to remove the crank arm. On the Sram Red crankset it is the same, the big chainring has 50 and the smaller with 34. Lastly is a standard crankset, it has 53 teeth on the outside and 39 on the inside, so it is quite fast on flat surfaces. When climbing though, compact cranks will help you maintain a high cadence and be able to maintain good spinning motion while going uphill.

Standard Crankset

Breaking it all down, for the majority of cyclists out there, a compact crankset is going to be the best choice for you, unless all of your riding is at 35 km per hour, in which case a standard crankset will be ideal. Being all about cadence and maximum watts per kilo, a compact crankset will stop you from being bogged down when you hit more difficult angles. If you are an extremely fast sprinter, standard is the way to go.

How to Install FSA Handlebar and Stem

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FSA Stem & Handlebar Installation: 

For this you will need a 4mm allen key and a torque wrench. Slide the FSA stem on to the fork steerer tube. Ensure that both threads have a light layer of grease. 

Secure Handlebar between Stem Faceplate and Stem

Insert handlebar between stem and faceplate. Verify that the handlebar is aligned in the stem using the alignment lines on the handlebar.  Tighten the faceplate to the stem, securing the handlebar, with the allen key. Tighten the stem fixing bolts to secure the stem to the fork steerer tube. Try and alternate tightening so all bolts reach proper torque simultaneously. 

Tighten Stem Bolts to Secure Stem to Fork Steerer Tube